A&B Cosmetics

ischiapp

ischiapp

Messages
807
Location
Forio d'Ischia, Naples, Italy
From the passion of a professional chemist for classic shaving, born A&B Cosmetics.
Fortunately, this person has a chemical company near Perugia.
Where it makes nutraceutical and pharmaceutical production.
So a different level of skills.
https://www.chemibit.it/index.php

I was immediately fascinated.
The apparent simplicity conceals a gem.
In fact there is a wealth of technical details.
Which unfortunately don’t show up in the INCI.

These are some examples.
I report the ingredients list and the olfactory pyramid:
  • Bois Aromatique
  • Essence
  • Mint & Flowers
  • Ribera
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But the current production is much wider.
It consists of seven models, plus an LE produced for the Barber Era.
All sold in combination sets, with a luxury packaging worthy of the product.
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Thanks to a circle of acquaintances, I had the pleasure of getting in touch with the owner Andrea Bianchi.
In addition to receiving very interesting information from a technical point of view, I borrow some sets.
https://www.theshavingroom.co.uk/community/posts/922624/

I can’t wait to start this trip.
Discovering an Italian excellence.
More to come ...
 
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As a matter of interest despite having Italian parents, my reading of Italian isn’t great, (I can speak it better than read it) I’ve used this talc since I was a child, (it brings back lots of memories of my mother and Nonna) @ischiapp is the talco based on this?
 
ischiapp said:
I don’t really know that.

The notes speak of powder and talc.
It seems little more than unscented. (Anytime)
I’m guessing a clean, neutral scent.

On the contrary, Felce Azzurra is an Italian historical fragrance:
Orange, Pink, Pine;
Lavender, Petit Grain, Patchouli;
White Musk, Lemongrass.
Click to expand...
I was glad I haven’t bought it then as I didn’t think my reading was that bad! No I want a soap with that fragrance breakdown!
 
I had to start over with this soap.
From the basics, to focus the ABC of lathering.
Which also happens to be the acronym for the brand.

This Ribera is the 22.12 base of December 2022.
This range will be coming to base 23 shortly.
In fact, the current version is not for newbies.

Very technical, requires understanding two basic concepts:
  • the amount of water
  • the temperature

Thanks to the suggestions I received, I had no difficulty.
But it still took a long time, compared to my standards.
In fact, this base requires a lot of water.
Also at first hard butters have to be warmed.
So I used the sink as a Scuttle. I don’t use a bowl.
skNeyHS.jpg


Another detail to consider with technical products.
Do not load into the container, and take a given amount of product.
In my case, this being the first contact, I used two grams.
That is an enormity ... but it was useful to work in sure excess.
This amount in about ten minutes of assembly, took about twelve grams of water.
All with seven successive additions, to achieve the desired density.
That doesn’t sound like much. But it’s a lot.

On the other hand, at the third pass according to the classical technique, I had a large amount of lather for at least two more passes.
Lather that obviously remained dense and pearlescent until the end.
In fact, it has an excellent structure with micro bubbles, very resistant.
The same applies to lubrication. Both primary and secondary.
In fact, the high amount of cocoa butter has a similar effect to waxes.

To finish the lotion gave its fragrance touch.
Both, even that of soap, in good continuity.
But without being aggressive, despite their presence.
After several hours, I still hear the background notes.

This is the SOTD.
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https://www.theshavingroom.co.uk/community/posts/922918/
 
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Today I took a step too far.
A different brush, and a different razor.
But mostly no aftershave.

The Simpson does not behave badly, even if it is not a dragon.
TNNSER3D uses the old GEM, and that’s all you can ask for.
The fact is that Ribera behaves well, but obviously does no miracles.

As always, soap can make a difference.
But not until you undo the shortcomings of the blade.
As one of my mentors said ... Chemistry DOES NOT exceed Physics.
In the end, the result is excellent.
With good comfort, but less durable.
Tomorrow I’ll have to retrace my steps!!!

This is the SOTD.
CBUFPXm.jpg

https://www.theshavingroom.co.uk/community/posts/923048/
 
These days I tried the 22 base with the brushes in pork bristles:
• SOTD 20230530 - Ribera vs Omega 10077 (22x50mm)

• SOTD 20230531 - Ribera vs Semoge 1305 (22x55mm)

• SOTD 20230601 - Bois Aromatique vs Semoge 1305 (22x55mm)


Negative result.
Between evil and the worst.
In the sense of yield, of course.

With the smallest loft, the result was already unsatisfactory.
I had to recharge for the last pass. In total about 2 grams.
With the largest one, the first I used 3 grams and today 4 grams.
Besides the consumption, the unpleasant consequence was the SLOWNESS.

The good thing was the fragrance explosion.
In fact if Ribera is fresh and delicate, Boir Aromatique is bold.
Actually, I still feel some dry notes.
After well over 12 hours.
Lotion excellent.
 
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