The 'Fergiebilly' Shim

wintoid said:
1. riverrun
2. grarea
3. Nisse
4. Looney12345
5. fly3k
6. Lord Fatboy
7. The Geordie Shaver

OK all full. @Lord Fatboy We built the shim for the Heljestrand I have, so I can't comment on whether it's suitable for 1912s etc. I suggest you take one, and if it doesn't work out, pass it on.
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It Wont Work in a 1912 etc..It Will Alter things Dramatically..:)

Billy
 
se ever ready.JPG

"The First SE that was designed for the Current Gem blade was the Gem Open Comb Micromatic or OCMM on 1929/1930... The OCMM, Gem Clog Pruf, Bullet Tip, Gem G bar, Gem Featherweight/Ever-Ready Natural Angle, Gem Push Button & Gem Contour were all Designed to take the Current Gem Blade..All the SE s before the OCMM were designed for Stropping Blades."


I think they'll work with everything after, and including, a 1912 on the GEM/Star/E-R side. Not sure about the lather catchers 'cos they were designed for wedges, so surely the shim will unseat the correct bevel angle..? @Fergiebilly says the later Gem + etc models (after the 1924) were designed to work with the current Gem/Personna blade, but were they maybe were designed to work with both the current and the old "corrux" blades..? I got two old, wrapped Ever Ready blades - 1950s? - in the post yesterday (gonna get some Cru steel blades - WW1 & WW2 era - from the same vendor soon). They are really bloody heavy, with an even heavier (thicker?) spine than the old 100 year old "GB Star" blades. They both had some rust, not on the bevel surface itself though, so I cleaned them up with razor blade, WD40 and elbow grease, keeping away from the blade edge. They're sitting in WD40 now. They were pretty sharp, grab a wet thumb nail, cut a stretched hair, but will need extra stropping because WD40 is an abrasive (which is a bummer as I dinnae have any strops, CrOx or balsa !)


Looney12345 said:
Fantastic, looking forward to this!

So can we confirm which razor's we believe the shim will work with? @Fergiebilly?
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I have Explained which Models Take Stropping Blades..You Wont get You're Head Round this Stuff Overnight & Don't Expect To because its a Huge Area of Learning & Most Never Get there Anyway..Some Later Lather Catchers were Designed for a Stropping Blade..The Gem Junior was the 1st..To Confuse the Matter..:)

The Gem Junior also Takes a Hollow Ground Blade..It was the Only One that took Both..Catch the Monkey Slowly..These Threads are all Correct but You Learn through Handling these SEs..;)

I have Handled them All..:D

Billy
 
Lord Fatboy said:
View attachment 19809

"The First SE that was designed for the Current Gem blade was the Gem Open Comb Micromatic or OCMM on 1929/1930... The OCMM, Gem Clog Pruf, Bullet Tip, Gem G bar, Gem Featherweight/Ever-Ready Natural Angle, Gem Push Button & Gem Contour were all Designed to take the Current Gem Blade..All the SE s before the OCMM were designed for Stropping Blades."


I think they'll work with everything after, and including, a 1912 on the GEM/Star/E-R side. Not sure about the lather catchers 'cos they were designed for wedges, so surely the shim will unseat the correct bevel angle..? @Fergiebilly says the later Gem + etc models (after the 1924) were designed to work with the current Gem/Personna blade, but were they maybe were designed to work with both the current and the old "corrux" blades..? I got two old, wrapped Ever Ready blades - 1950s? - in the post yesterday (gonna get some Cru steel blades - WW1 & WW2 era - from the same vendor soon). They are really bloody heavy, with an even heavier (thicker?) spine than the old 100 year old "GB Star" blades. They both had some rust, not on the bevel surface itself though, so I cleaned them up with razor blade, WD40 and elbow grease, keeping away from the blade edge. They're sitting in WD40 now. They were pretty sharp, grab a wet thumb nail, cut a stretched hair, but will need extra stropping because WD40 is an abrasive (which is a bummer as I dinnae have any strops, CrOx or balsa !)
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I'm not so sure. If I understand correctly the shim has been made specifically with the Heljestrand in mind, therefore the way the shim sits in the razor will be different to the way it would sit in 1912/14 etc?

One option if I've read this correctly if you just wanted to the top part of the shim (similar to the @Fergiebilly method) you could just use a Stanley to cut off the rest of the shim and just keep the top part? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
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