OK, so I am posting this review over several days using different equipment and will update this post as I go.
WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Phoenix & Beau Soap, Tallow Formula (unscented for purposes of testing).
APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION:
OK, so, I pressed the soap into an old cereal bowl quite easily, so a soft soap indeed. I bloom it for the duration of my hot towel and scrub preparation, and use the bloom water to help load the brush.
SCENT:
I'll not comment on the unscented aspect, more what I think would work wonders for me with a soap of this nature. I'd like to see woody, masculine scents here, so sandalwood, maybe something peppery.
LATHERABILITY:
A short bloom ensured the Body Shop synthetic brush loaded with ease. I loaded for about 15-20 seconds, which gave ample pre-lather that I transferred to my 'The Shaving Room' bowl, added a moderate amount of water to start the building of lather. The lather never had that large bubble phase I get with some other soaps, but I did need to add plenty of water. The lather as it started building had an element of elasticity that I've not seen in any other soap I won. Added a little more water to thin the lather slightly as I was using a shavette today. The lather when formed was rich and yoghurty, built without any real effort at all.
Tomorrow (day 2) I will lather using a boar brush to see if there is any discernible difference. I'll update accordingly with new photos and comments on lather.
DAY 2 - No issues building a lather here either. Had to add a little more water as the brush seemed to soak up plenty during the building of lather, but not exactly a problem at all.
DAY 3 - Used the mighty Omega 48 today, and boy did this brush make mincemeat of the soap! Knowing the lather hogging properties of this brush, I did load it for a bit longer, and proceeded to the bowl with the chewing gum consistency spoken of by others. Plenty of water later, I was greeted with more lather than you'd need to shave a Grizzly Bear!
This is the remaining lather from day 3 shave! So much lather left, might not use this brush with the soap long term.
DAY 4 - Back to the Body Shop Synthetic brush today, with a little added glycerine. No difference in lathering at all.
DAY 5 - As per yesterday, Body Shop Synthetic brush, no glycerine, usual bloom - fantastic lather
PERFORMANCE:
This for me is key. Having read some of the initial comments on the quality of the lather, I had high expectations. With that in mind, I chose a shavette for DAY 1 shave. I painted the lather over my prepared (hot towel and face scrub) skin and proceeded to take short, deliberate strokes with the razor. I could tell instantly that the lather protected the skin when taking off two days growth (I purposely didn't shave yesterday to give a good test). I felt confidence in the lather to let the razor slide over the skin also. I performed a two pass shave with the shavette, and not once did I feel tense or unsure of the soaps abilities to allow a safe, close shave.
DAY 2 - With the 39C and a 7th shave Astra SS, I felt this a good test for the soap. The blade wasn't as sharp as I like, but the lather protected diligently, gave ample glide and no drama at all.
DAY 3 - Used the DE89 today and a fresh Astra SS. First use of the razor meant there was an element of figuring out the nuances of this razor, so a good test for the soap. The lather coped well with the lack of intuition for the razor, ensuring plenty of glide and cushion where needed. Whilst the razor isn't my favourite, the lather certainly ensured there was no 'falling off a bike' type problems.
DAY 4 - Merkur 39C and Astra SS (2) with the glycerine enriched lather. Oddly, I prefer the soap in its raw state, the glycerine didn't really add much to the shave that I could notice, testament to the initial very high quality lather of the soap.
DAY 5 - The lather was exceptional as usual, and with the added protection of my home blend pre shave oil, I think I've got a combination that will be impossible to beat when it comes to the shave quality.
POST SHAVE:
DAY 1 (shavette) - Here's the second most important thing for me. Some soaps leave me tight and dry. This was the polar opposite. Not dry in the slightest, no taught sensation at all. Top marks there. The third and final element of post shave for me is alum feedback. Previous history with shavettes showed strong to severe feedback under the jawline, with mild to moderate above. This was massively reduced to zero feedback above the jawline, with mild to moderate below, testament to the protective qualities of the lather.
DAY 2 - As with day 1, plenty of good things to say about the post shave finish. No dryness, tightness or any other drama you can speak of. All looking good!
DAY 3 - Post shave experience is as good on day three as it was on the preceding days, superb finish. Definitely a market leader in my humble opinion.
DAY 4 - Still a very good finish, not improved by the addition of glycerine to the lather.
DAY 5 - Sublime finish today, with the same level of softness and zero dryness as I've come to expect from this soap.
CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
DAY 1 (shavette) - Well, it's a definite thumbs up here so far. The soap gave fantastic protection against the fearsome shavette. Not once did I feel any decline in protective qualities, every aspect of the test sample stands up so far. Loads and lathers well, protects and offers superior glide.
DAY 2 (Merkur 39C) - A great shave despite having a blade not at its peak in terms of sharpness. I'll load a fresh blade tomorrow in to the DE89 for a fresh blade test.
DAY 3 (Edwin Jagger DE89) - Whilst the razor isn't my favourite (touch ups needed), the lather didn't let me down, it protected against any issues that can be found when using a razor for the first time.
DAY 4 - (Merkur 39C) - A great shave was achieved this morning, even with a sense of rushing the shave a little so we could visit the inlaws. Still cushioned and protected as it has consistently done.
DAY 5 - (Merkur 39C) - Quite simply the best shave I've had in terms of performance and post shave finish. If the scents I like will be included in the product that goes to market, then this will be an unbeatable product in my humble opinion. Currently awaiting the product to go to market so that I can purchase...
FINAL CONCLUSION - OK, so I think you can tell from my previous comments that this soap is something to be reckoned with. It is absolutely sublime in use and post shave finish. It's going to be very hard indeed to find a soap that performs to the stratospheric levels that this soap does. It excels in every avenue you could ask of a soap. With the right selection of scents (baby powder, sandalwood and something spicy nudge nudge wink wink), I see this sitting in the numero uno spot of my collection for as long as is humanly fathomable. Kerry, whatever you've done with this formula, write it down, guard it with your life and whatever you do, don't stop making it!
