Phoenix&Beau: My vegan & tallow shaving soaps [testers required]

Good morning chaps,

So we've just @Hippo and @mouse to come back with their testing. As I mention, I'll summarize everyone's feedback on a chart and pop that on here once we've everything in. That way we can have a good look at how folk found V.7 and let that fine tune V.8 :)

Fingers crossed my lab-grade vials arrive this week and fingers crossed they're both liquid and air tight; that being the case I'll have the 6 scents* out to you all by the weeks end. :cool: Vegan V.8 is almost ready for its first batch creation - I shall report back soon.

*Nb, I'm wearing a few drops of Albion this morning and it's divine :D:D On the subject of my scents, would you like a summary of what each is made of / 3 of the core essential oils, e.g Sandalwood / Benzoin / Frankincense OR would you like to see what you get with no indication from me?

With kind regards,

Kerry.
 
A quick update to report back on my first shave with V.8 vegan.

V.7 is based on the following formula:
  • Stearic acid
  • Coconut oil
  • Castor oil
  • Vegetable glycerin
  • Distilled water
  • Potassium hydroxide
V.8 has that same core of ingredients but, wanting to improve the cushion and post-shave I've amended it as follows:
  • Stearic acid
  • Coconut oil
  • Castor oil
  • Unrefined shea butter
  • Pumpkinseed oil
  • Vegetable glycerin
  • Distilled water
  • Potassium hydroxide
Rationale:
Shea butter is brilliant stuff. Rich in precious constituents such as unsaturated fats, essential fatty acids, vitamins E, D and pro-vitamin A. It is considered a super food for skin and regarded as one of natures best skincare products for winter and after-sun care as it provides the extra moisture, nutrients and protection needed by your skin during the cold season and summer. Effective in soothing dry itchy or flaky skin. It possesses anti-inflammatory qualities and gets absorbed into the skin without leaving a greasy residue or clogging the pores.

Not too shabby, then and my thinking was that it had the words "post shave" written all over it :p

Pumpkinseed oil is similar in that it is high in linoleic acid and oleic acids. In English, then these acids lend the ingredient very good moisturising qualities. It's high in antioxidants, Omega 3 & 6 fatty acids and also Vitamin E. In the context of lather it isn't a game changer like castor oil but it does contribute to the creaminess / richness. I've added it to this formula to test it for its post-shave attributes.

I've just had my first shave with V8 and can report back that the post shave is certainly better. I have a nice silky sheen like feel to my skin. I'm going to have two or three more shaves and alternate between V7 and V8 in order to get a better take on V8's cushion. Early indications are that it is improved but I feel one shave isn't enough of a test for me to say that that's definitely the case.

More soon, guys. :)

Thanks,

Kerry.
 
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Morning all,

I've re-packaged the scents in to new laboratory grade 1.5ml plastic vials and will be posting them all this morning.
IMAG0520_zpsj9brzrsg.jpg

Each vial is numbered and corresponds as follows:
  1. Lavandula
  2. Citra Royale
  3. Albion
  4. Sanskrit
  5. Boudicea
  6. Solaris.
As you've observed, they're made of carefully considered / blended essential oils and are (in this concentration) quite powerful. I recommend decanting each sample on to a sliver of coffee filter paper and leaving for a few minutes. This will give each fragrance the opportunity to level itself out and help you avoid being hit with each respective top note. If you could also re-visit each scent and explore how it changes, that'd be great.

Could you comment as follows, please:
  • Order of preference
  • What you detect in each scent, e.g. black pepper, cedarwood, geranium, etc
  • Preferred strength of scent, e.g. would you like it weaker, as is or stronger in my soap.
Happy sniffing! :eek::D

Kerry.
 
Got them today too. Here is my first thoughts and I'm no expert at detecting notes. I also haven't cross referenced the names to numbers.

1. Cedarwood and orange
2. Citrus / lime
3. Vetiver
4. Citrus/ lime
5. Peppermint/ menthol
6. No idea. Not nice.

In order of preference favourite first.

2 1 3 4 5 6
 
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Nishy said:
Kerry what might be a good idea is to upload a picture of the lather you produce, with the quantity of water used, so that we can see what we are aiming for.
Click to expand...

Method:
  • Pre-soak brush, tap out water four times and load for 30 seconds
  • Bowl lather for 30 seconds, using fingers drip 5 generous droplets of water in to the lather. Repeat two more time (so 90 seconds of bowl lathering).
My SOP method produces the below (nb, this is Vegan V8)
IMAG0539_zps4ej6n9l1.jpg

IMAG0547_zpsodtwxh0h.jpg
 
Nishy said:
Thanks for the methodology. Would you consider the lather to be fluffy or does it have an oily sheen?
Click to expand...
I would say the lather is dense in consistency with no visible air bubbles. Doing a hand lather it exhibits a really nice silky sheen.

The shave was good in that moisturizing qualities and cushion are improved. However, reading folks feedback for V7 I'm aiming for a really superb cushion. :p

Tinkering continues and samples will be shared with the 12 once I'm happy. In the interim we've the 6 scent samples to enjoy, how goes the smelling? :)
 
I have done my Happy Sniffing...:D

  1. Lavandula Starts off with a Strong Orange high note and low Lavender note...It settles into a higher Lavender/Lower Orange note
  2. Citra Royale Starts of with a lovely lemon & lime note..Just want to eat it...Settles into a distinct Citrus Lime High note
  3. Albion Deep Grassy natural morning dew high note ...Settles into a hint of vanilla with musky earth middle note
  4. Sanskrit High Cedar wood with low citrus note....Settles into Lovely Musky Note with a high citrus note
  5. Boudicea High Peppermint Note ...Settles quite nicely and to very refreshing & cool Spearmint
  6. Solaris. Dark Musky Arabian or Oriental scent...Settles into a Lighter Musky scent....A Mans scent for sure...:D:D

2. Was my favourite for a shaving soap....Refreshing
5. Also a great scent for a shaving soap...Refreshing
1. Could go with this in a shaving soap.....Refreshing
4. Nice & balanced and good to go in a shaving soap ...Refreshing
3. For me...A bit rich for a shaving soap...More like a perfume for me..
6. Again a bit complex and rich for a shaving soap....But hell I would wear it as a mans perfume...Lovely...o_O

To sum up then..2, 5, 1 & 4 are refreshing and very balanced.....3 & 6 were quite earthy & musky and quite strong...Lovely scents but maybe too much for a shaving soap for me anyway...Subtle is not here...:eek:

I hope this is laid out Ok...:D

Billy
 
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