Thank you for that information Sam interesting so production of this one must have been around the time they were testing good to know. I honestly wouldn’t have paid $160 for a new one I assume it’s the same as the dandy with the AOS logo which does look a rather cheap razor. I would happily spend a lot more on a much nicer TI have my eye on a new 7/8th square point but thought I would have a go and offer £60 ish all in and have it as an extra in hindsight I probably could have picked up a nice little vintage for the money but i will learn not to be too quick to jump in next time...or I hope I will lolThe letters were used when TI was testing different steels I believe. The current TIs are made from c135 which means that it has 13.5% carbon in the steel. It is hard, but holds an edge a long time. Billy is absolutely right. The AOS stamp increased the price significantly for a product that is otherwise sold for about 100 bucks. There was a great shop in Ireland that had the best prices on TI razors, but as of couple of months ago doesn’t exist anymore... There are other shops that still have better prices than 160$.
Any idea when that was Sam ?The letters were used when TI was testing different steels I believe. The current TIs are made from c135 which means that it has 13.5% carbon in the steel. It is hard, but holds an edge a long time. Billy is absolutely right. The AOS stamp increased the price significantly for a product that is otherwise sold for about 100 bucks. There was a great shop in Ireland that had the best prices on TI razors, but as of couple of months ago doesn’t exist anymore... There are other shops that still have better prices than 160$.
For 60£ you can do much worse. Honestly they are great. I find the 5/8 a bit small and prefer the 6/8 sizes. Some people in the States get these cheap and sand down the AOS writing. I like clean blades although I have many with etching. The clean blades are easier to maintain. The 7/8 are looking fantastic, but they are a smidge big for me.Thank you for that information Sam interesting so production of this one must have been around the time they were testing good to know. I honestly wouldn’t have paid $160 for a new one I assume it’s the same as the dandy with the AOS logo which does look a rather cheap razor. I would happily spend a lot more on a much nicer TI have my eye on a new 7/8th square point but thought I would have a go and offer £60 ish all in and have it as an extra in hindsight I probably could have picked up a nice little vintage for the money but i will learn not to be too quick to jump in next time...or I hope I will lol
Honestly I am not sure Russ. But this is the first razor offered with the C135 steel.Any idea when that was Sam ?
Thanks for the reply Sam just picked up the evide sonnant 6/8 black horn new last week it will be making its way up to Billy Friday. Thought a 5/8 would give me a bit of variety but I must admit I’ve really been enjoying the 6/8 Henckels I recently purchased from Russ. I do quite like some of the etched blades but can see it creating some difficulty when honing and wouldn’t be the ideal for starting to learn. No what you mean though sometimes the big logo can make it look a bit cheapFor 60£ you can do much worse. Honestly they are great. I find the 5/8 a bit small and prefer the 6/8 sizes. Some people in the States get these cheap and sand down the AOS writing. I like clean blades although I have many with etching. The clean blades are easier to maintain. The 7/8 are looking fantastic, but they are a smidge big for me.
Honing wouldn’t be a problem. If you don’t oil your blades and store them away from humidity they start to rust. Rusting etched blade is impossible to polish without screwing up the gilding. That is the reason I prefer clean blades. Plus simple is nice sometimes.Thanks for the reply Sam just picked up the evide sonnant 6/8 black horn new last week it will be making its way up to Billy Friday. Thought a 5/8 would give me a bit of variety but I must admit I’ve really been enjoying the 6/8 Henckels I recently purchased from Russ. I do quite like some of the etched blades but can see it creating some difficulty when honing and wouldn’t be the ideal for starting to learn. No what you mean though sometimes the big logo can make it look a bit cheap
Russ, the oldest post with that particular razor is from the latter part of 2007. So I think it is safe to extrapolate and make a statement that the c135 was introduced in 2007. It is harder by 3 point on the Rockwell scale apparently and the spine is slightly softer compared to the cutting edge. They still use lead hardening process which is pretty unique. No other company can use it because of health and safety regulations. TI was grandfathered in and has special permission.Any idea when that was Sam ?
Thanks SamNow I get what you are saying Jay. Yes that is different, as far as i can see they used that stamp when TI first switched to C135 , now the when seems to not be too clear but as far i can work out , somewhere from 2008 to 2012.
Ahh I see what you mean with the etching thank you that is something I will keep in mind for future reference when purchasing and also when storing my blades. Can I ask what oil is best to use on my razors when not in use ?Honing wouldn’t be a problem. If you don’t oil your blades and store them away from humidity they start to rust. Rusting etched blade is impossible to polish without screwing up the gilding. That is the reason I prefer clean blades. Plus simple is nice sometimes.
That black horn razor sounds great. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine.
I use Ballistol. It is better than liquid paraffin which some people use. It adheres to the steel and doesn’t bead up like the paraffin. After each use, I rinse the blade without getting water at the pivot, dry it, strop 20-30 times on linen, then oil on the blade itself. If the scales are horn or bone or wood, I apply just a tiny bit of oil on them as well. Ballistol is safe food grade oil made from plant oils and such.Ahh I see what you mean with the etching thank you that is something I will keep in mind for future reference when purchasing and also when storing my blades. Can I ask what oil is best to use on my razors when not in use ?
Thank you Sam this helps an awful lot and answered some other questions I had too I will follow your advice and do the same will get some ballistol ordered at the end of the week ready as I have a few straights on the way so they will need storing properly after use. Really looking forward to trying the new stropI use Ballistol. It is better than liquid paraffin which some people use. It adheres to the steel and doesn’t bead up like the paraffin. After each use, I rinse the blade without getting water at the pivot, dry it, strop 20-30 times on linen, then oil on the blade itself. If the scales are horn or bone or wood, I apply just a tiny bit of oil on them as well. Ballistol is safe good grade oil made from plant oils and such.
Before use I wipe the blade clean and carefully wash the remaining oil with a drop of soap and water and dry the blade before stropping. You don’t wanna get too much oil on your strops. It will change the draw and make it heavier, plus it collects dust particles etc. Hope this helps.
Thanks Sam yes i do have a local gun shop and he is a family friend that owns it my dad was a firearms dealer for a long number of years will pop down and pick a bottle up perfectJay, if you have a gun shop or a bicycle shop nearby, they might have the ballistol. I know few places in the U.K. carry it and it might be well worth ordering. I have just the 50ml one and that has lasted me a year and a half and it is still half full. I just dab my finger on the top, tip the bottle and use a drop or two to oil the razor.
I hope you like the strop. I certainly enjoyed it.
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