Shavemac custom made: pure and finest badger brushes

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I recently acquired 2 Shavemac brushes through Bernds custom brush webpage (http://www.shavemac.com/shop/selfmade.php)
Both with a faux ivory handle, one in pure badger, one in finest. Both brushes I estimate to have a 22-23mm knot. Loft is about 55-60 I think. Density is good: denser than a Kent BK4 or EJ brush, but not quite up to Simpson or Rooney standards. Please note these Shavemacs have bulb shaped knots, so the diehard fans of -er...- fans might better stick with the British brands. Handles come in about six different types: I picked a Rooney style 1-ish handle for the pure and a tulip shaped one for the finest. The faux ivory resin is heavy and almost as nice as the Simpson resin (my favourite).

The pure: now this is a remarkable brush! Most pure badgers are coarse & prickly buggers, but my brush is quite soft and luxurious. Explanation? Bernd uses hand picked and tied knots on ALL his brushes, so no distinction here between man-made silvertips and machine-made prickly pures (hair tips cut off to shape the knot :cry: ). Rather splendid of Bernd, I think, because the choice for a pure is certainly not just a matter of buying 'the poor man's badger brush': some guys just prefer the scrub and resilience of the pure grades over the fluff of so many silvertips...
The pure hair on this brush -combined with the bulb shape- produce a very distinct feeling whilst loading it with soap & face lathering. It's a very 'springy' hair grade with soft tips, making it comparable to a (denser) best grade of other brands. No brush in my considerable inventory produces so much and such thick lather. Combine this with MWF or Harris and you're in for something really special.

The finest: First, I need to state that Shavemacs 'finest' grade has absolutely nothing to do with Rooney's finest. Completely different. Shavemac is a soft super/silvertip affair (confusing as Bern also offers a 'true' silvertip grade with -presumably- whiter and even softer tips?). Ignoring the arbitrary hair grade denominations, the Shavemac in finest is a solid performer in the classic super/silvertip model= flexible hairs, super soft tips: ideal for creams but certainly suited to hard soaps if one is willing to put a little more effort in it. The finest grade is a lot more flexible than the pure, so the brushes feel very differently on the face.

Which one to choose?

-if you don't own a soft silvertip already and prefer creams to soaps: the finest is an outstanding brush representing tremendous value. Think of it as a slightly softer and denser (and bulbier) Kent BK4, which is about the pinaccle in shaving brush value IMO...

-if you're a soap fan, already owning soft brushes and/or stiff Simpsons or Rooneys, then Shavemacs pure could fill in a niche in your shaving den: moderately dense, quite soft but, as I said, very resilient and 'springy' (Is that actually a word?). (BTW; this brush will handle creams just as effortless, I just don't use it for creams myself).
 
Frederick

Thank you for a very thoughtful review.

The question that comes to my mind is: would a shorter loft in finest or D01 perform any better face lathering soaps than the pure you have? I know a lot of B&Bers really like brushes like this, eg 22mm knot, 48mm loft in D01.

Interested to know what you think.

David
 
The D01 brushes I have never tried. But I'm pretty sure they are comparable to a small chubby or a Rooney in super. A Do1 costs over a 100 £ I believe, so the pure custom is a bargain at about 55 EUR.

Another thing: Over at SMF, Gordon has mentioned the 'flow-through' of a brush being an important factor in brush performance besides density and loft length. Flow-trough has to do with how well the brush will mix cream/soap with water and air. A softer (longer loft, less dense) brush will achieve the optimal mix actually faster than the ultra dense ones which seem to 'hold on' to the cream or soap a lot more and which can be a pain to achieve sufficient lather volume as well. Of course, when one is face lathering, the short loft + density is an advantage, as it allows for easily coating your face with lather. Scrubbier as well, of course.
Now, the Shavemac pure as I see it, combines great flow-through with the resilience of a shorter loft (not quite the same of course, but more than enough for what I'm after). Therefore, it produces a lot of thick lather in no time, which is applied with ease all over my face.

(ps: sorry for the pseudo scientific gibberish at times, but it's quite hard to describe actual experiences, let alone in another language)
 
Frederick

Thanks for the review. After we exchanged messages I bought the shavemac 177 silvertip, largely on the basis of this comment which summed up a lot of the reviews:

"So what makes it the “perfect” brush- it’s soft- but not floppy, It's very easy to make a great lather with, its flexible- but not moppy. Dense enough not to deflect too much. Yet still cashmere soft on my face"

I have used the brush several times. My personal experience does not match this observation. It's soft. And it is floppy. It's flexible, and it is moppy. It is none the less a pleasure to use to apply lather but not firm enough for a decent face lather. It has hugely increased my respect for my Kent BK8 which outperforms it on all fronts. It is now my most expensive brush. The experience has taught me a valuable lesson. If I am ever tempted into the over £100 price band (this was very close) I will only buy a brush I have handled, seen and felt. Even that is no guarantee it will behave as you expect when wet and with lather. But it gives you a fighting chance of making a decent choice. Having said this, I will enjoy using the 177 but it will not be as versatile as I expected.
 
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