Where just the end(s) have become detached, I've managed to solder it back in with normal electrical cored solder (as opposed to silver solder, which needs more heat). Where there is a short crack in only the plain ends of the central knurled handle, the solder also anchors the crack, so it won't open up any more. It is possible, with care, to remove any solder which squeezes out from around the end-piece, or the crack.
Soldering won't work too well anywhere near the knurled section, if appearances matter. If it gets in the knurling, it's very difficult to remove by filing and brushing.
I should add that I have "professional grade" variable temperature equipment and a fair amount amount of soldering experience. It is also possible to work with a reasonable quality general purpose standard iron which will heat well, but a bit more complicated.
If you have neither the equipment nor any previous soldering experience, and don't know anyone who does, I wouldn't suggest trying it.
Glue then looks the better option, and the B&B link seems pretty comprehensive. The only thing I would make sure to do is use a marine-grade epoxy which is both water-resistant and able to withstand a certain amount of heat. Having been in the fishing industry, the epoxy which has given me good results in repairs to metal engine pipework is Loctite Marine Epoxy, which is good up to about 65 Centigrade, and which I think is outside the normal range for domestic hot water from the tap. The glue setting time will give you some leeway in making sure everything is in the right place or adjusted before it sets. However, if you let things set and they, for example, creep out of position, then considerable heat will be needed to break the bond, which can lead to all sorts of other problems. A real case of needing to "do it once and do it right".
