New Forest Shaving Brushes

Jeltz said:
When I make some brushes I will be using Padauk for one. Heavy and finishes beautifully, its a very dense African hardwood so slow to work in comparison with oak.

You sure it is Padauk you're thinking of? Bright orange-red when cut, but browning quickly upon exposure to oxygen and light? (Can delay turning brown with a good varnish finish though).

It is an excellent wood for brush handles, is very hard, and reasonably dense, but not overly so (specific weight / volumetric mass around 0.8). Used to make sound bars for xylophones. But: at least when turning it works very easily and fast, much better so than e.g. oak. Polishes beautifully, even though it has some open pores.

My personal preference for handles is olive. I also have a lignum vitae handle, but I wouldn't do one again I think. There's no way to finish it right, so the wood gets soaked repeatedly. While lignum vitae is somewhat water resistant, I fear that it will fail eventually.
 
I'm also a fan of oak, except in any application where it will come into contact with iron or water. The former because of the tannin which reacts with iron, corroding it and causing a black stain - brass screws are de rigeur for quality oak furniture - and the latter on account of the unusually high rate of movement with variations in moisture content. Both of these apply double to English oak, but are less problematic with American species, whilst Japanese red oak is actually rather well behaved stuff. For these reasons I'd never consider it for tool handles and razor scales, and be very wary of using it in a brush handle unless it was absolutely blathered with AC lacquer.

Walnut, padauk and sapele: all fine, (except that I think a brush deserves better than sapele), but all three are comparatively open grained. Padauk comes in two completely different varieties, African (Pterocarpus soyauxii) and Andaman (Pterocarpus dalbergioides, P. macrocarpus, P. indicus), the latter being generally regarded as the better timber especially in the burr form which is sold as amboyna. The striking red colouration of the African variety darkens considerably with exposure to air, and there is a chance that this colour may run (it's a dye wood).

Sale of lignum vitae is very tightly restricted in the UK; I'm not even sure if it is obtainable nowadays, although there's plenty to be had in the form of old bowls (as in crown green, that is!). I wouldn't worry about its stability with regard to water: it was used in ship's propeller bearings on account of its self lubricating properties and durability when exposed to salt water.

The ideal stuff to use for a brush handle is, of course, oosik. ;)
 
Arrowhead said:
Padauk comes in two completely different varieties, African (Pterocarpus soyauxii) and Andaman (Pterocarpus dalbergioides, P. macrocarpus, P. indicus), the latter being generally regarded as the better timber especially in the burr form which is sold as amboyna. The striking red colouration of the African variety darkens considerably with exposure to air, and there is a chance that this colour may run (it's a dye wood).

Amboyna is beautiful, but the non-burl variety of P. indicus always struck me as rather bland. It may well be a better timber than African Padauk, but I prefer the looks of African for small items of turnery.

Sale of lignum vitae is very tightly restricted in the UK; I'm not even sure if it is obtainable nowadays, although there's plenty to be had in the form of old bowls (as in crown green, that is!). I wouldn't worry about its stability with regard to water: it was used in ship's propeller bearings on account of its self lubricating properties and durability when exposed to salt water.

lignum vitae is reasonably obtainable, if very expensive -- availability is probably better than snakewood, which is a dog to work with, due to its cracking under heat (sanding :-( ) YOu need any? I know about its propeller-shaft bearing application, but I assume that a large block, under water, under load, responds differently than a small handle piece, subject to daily wet.dry cycles. Anyway, my LV handle developed cracks, which appear to have been stabilized by a short treatment in the microwave ;-)

The ideal stuff to use for a brush handle is, of course, oosik. ;)

Yeah, but it would be hard getting some locally :-D
 
hunnymonster said:
You might find some at Blijdorp - that can only be about an hour from you... :lol:

Slightly more, but not by much. Artis (AMsterdam) and Amersfoort are closer, but don't have walruses I think. However, I don't think I'm quite ready yet to harvest my own oosik from live bulls...
 
I've really enjoyed this thread. I used a bit of oak just to assess the feasibility of making brushes for the first time. Having established that I will be thinking about the type of materials to use in future. Lots of helpful ideas here. This is the only other wooden brush handle I have, made by Acca Kappa in Zebrawood. It seems to have been left in its natural state and it has faded a little after only being used twice.

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Forgot this one:

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Portugese oak?
 
The Padauk I've turned was a dark reddish brown bordering on a slight purplish hue. The timber merchant has it in the amongst the African hardwood section but that's no guarantee or origin! It struck me as very dense while I turned it but that might just have been that one piece, finished like glass!
 
My brush has an ivory handle (I shot the elephant myself) but my butler's is, I believe, bakelite.

My boyfriend's, though, is amber. With a bee trapped in it. Delightful. Belonged the tzar you know. The boy, not the brush.
 
Jeltz said:
The Padauk I've turned was a dark reddish brown bordering on a slight purplish hue. The timber merchant has it in the amongst the African hardwood section but that's no guarantee or origin! It struck me as very dense while I turned it but that might just have been that one piece, finished like glass!

And it didn't turn bright red on cutting? That actually sounds like Bubinga, both the colour description and the description of how it worked. Heavy, dense and very polishable. I make priests (Hi Ollie) out of bubinga.
 
I think our dear old British Bobby use to crack the skulls of disaffected black youth's with truncheons made from lignum vitae, certainly rosewood.

It was highly effective but that was when you could target the head and before CCTV.
 
A couple of unfinished brushes to show the difference between Padauk and Bubinga.
Wood colours can vary significantly depending on which part part of the trunk its cut from, exposure to light etc etc and even experienced woodworkers and turners can make wrong ID at times.

Padauk is a reasonably safe ID but Bubinga varies a lot.
Anyhow hope the pics help some.
regards, beejay
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I have to confess that I prefer plain simple colours and the traditional shapes of the handles used by Simpson, Rooney and Plisson et al. I particularly like wenge, so I was interested to see this. I prefer simple designs but perhaps this is a step too far! Ugh!

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