Helping a new convertee...

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Afternoon all,

A friend of mine recently expressed an interest in traditional shaving, and has gone so far as to ask for a cheap brush for Christmas. In the meantime I have provided him with a fat-handled tech, a WS indian blade and a Gillette Silver to try this week. I also set him up with a tube of proraso, thinking it might function suitably without a brush for one or two shaves.

His first report was not favourable... having switched from a multi-blade cartdige to a DE he wholehearted dived into the experience, but came away with numerous nicks, buts and irritation. He's fairly willing to admit that his technique may be flawed, and is therefore happy to give it another go. This is where you all come in! I'm provided numerous bits of advice, and links to mantic's videos, but I don't think he's had the time to digest it all. So what I'm hoping is that you could all help me gather up a few succinct steps and tips for a complete beginner to help him match his enthusiasm with the end result!

I know most of the advice has been said before, but it would be good if I could just point him to this post (and hopefully get him to join the 'community') rather than bombard him with various tips.

Cheers,

Chris
 
Make sure the beard is thoroughly wet and warm.

Take it slowly.

Apply very little pressure.

Feel the way the beard grows and shave with it.
 
Basic beginner advice

Hold a hot wet flannel to your face and neck for at least a minute. (Most important)
Whip up as much lather as you can.
Shave with the grain only. Lather up for a 2nd pass maybe across the grain. Don't press down.
Wash face thoroughly with cold water.
Pat dry.
 
All very sound - I also forgot to add that he's unhappy with the closeness of the initial downward passes. I've stressed patience in getting used to technique before attempting the really close shave!
 
Here's my newbie pro forma:

I don’t know how much you know about DE wetshaving, so forgive me if this is patronizing – it’s meant to be useful and save you some blood and money (two things well worth saving).

First, may I strongly suggest that you look at the Mantic videos on YouTube: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/user/mantic59" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.youtube.com/user/mantic59</a><!-- m -->

Once there, try these three Mantic videos about lathering:

“Introduction to Traditional Wetshaving, Part 2: Lathering” (Ignore part one, it’s for people who’ve never had a wetshave at all, ever.) Also check out the videos “The Art Of Lathering” and “How To Build And Apply Traditional Shaving Lather”. In 15 mins you’ll know all you need you, but a good lather on softened (well-wetted) skin is essential: proper preparation pays.

Next, take a look at: “How To Shave With A Single-Blade Razor.” This one (and the three about lathering) is all you need.

This is well worth it if you don’t want to cut yourself up. Now you’re ready.

Here’s a step-by-step guide for absolute beginners:

First, get your face nice and wet for about a minute (after a bath or shower is ideal). Then brush up a lather with the cream or soap. (The second Mantic video deals with this.) Like certain other things (e.g. cars) shaving is all about lubrication.

Start with a “one pass shave”. Go with the grain. Do not apply any pressure: the weight of the razor and the sharpness of the blade are more than enough. Aim for a DFS (= decent first shave). You can stop now or you can try a two pass shave . . .

Next try two passes: WTG (= with the grain) and XTG (= across the grain, usually horizontally across). Re-lather between the two passes but this can be done with what’s left on the brush.

Next, try three passes: WTG (= with the grain) XTG (= across the grain) and ATG (=against the grain, usually upwards, at 180 degrees to the way the beard grows). Again re-lather between passes. Experts aim for a BBS (= baby bottom smooth) shave, but the name of the game is beard reduction not total and complete elimination! (You can keep shaving until you are utterly hairless -- one P G Woodehouse character going on a hot date makes a point of shaving "to the bone"! -- but doing that every day may not be the best thing for your skin.)

A few minutes spent in front of the mirror "beard mapping" is well worth it: look at the direction your beard grows in. The hairs don't just point down - but may sprout sideways at all sorts of angles. Because it changes from place to place on your face, when you shave different parts you may need to approach it from different angles.

For me the secret was getting the blade angle right. Start off too gentle with the handle of the razor parallel to the floor (i.e. the top of the razor’s head on your face and no blade). Glide the razor down also while angling the handle downwards until you can hear/feel the sandpapery sound/feel of bristle being cut, then you’ve got the angle right. Remember the razor head has no movement, it doesn’t pivot or turn. So you have to adjust the angle yourself.

Mantic speaks of the "facets" of a diamond: it looks round and smooth, but its lots of small straight planes. Shave those facets or planes and you'll get round your face's curves and corners with lots of short straight strokes.

Afterwards rise off with cold water to close the pores and use moisturizer (not alcohol / aftershave).
(You should get 3 -5 shaves out a blade.)

And that’s it. It’s an art but it’s well-worth it. I have a light beard and I find DE shave in the evening (when I’m more likely to have time) will still look good the next morning.

If you get stuck (or need advice or want to buy stuff) the forums and website are good (e.g. The Shaving Room). Nice guys, great advice, good stuff.

Good luck & God bless

Ollie
 
Thanks Ollie - very informative.

I have it on good authority that he's watched a few videos and will be giving it another stab (no blood-related pun intended).
 
I'm the opposite. I gave my friend some shaving stuff, superspeed, brush, cream, soap, Old Spice and a selection of blades. He said he got the best shave of his life at the first attempt, bbs, not even a spot of blood, women in his work were complimenting him on how good he looked. He puts it down to being an artist and working with brush pens regularly.

Pleased for him but secretly annoyed, it took me ages and I still draw blood every few shaves.
 
Beside's everything else that has been mentioned, the newly converted has to grasp the concept of beard reduction rather than elimination.

Have you got any Feather's Neo?...I would not muck about and give him a few, especially in a very mild razor like a Tech.
 
Being relatively new to it myself I'd say go with Ollie, also, (my tuppence worth) Hot water............ Hot Water.......... HOT WATER....... you can never have enough.

Other tips would be, stick with the same hardware and software till you get the basics nailed then find whats best for you.

Lastly........ persevere.......... the pay off is worth it in the end.......... trust me.

Andy

P.S. I dont have extremely thick growth but I do have stubborn hairs and like Ollie, I too prefer to shave in the evening where possible and allow myself a good hour to relax while I shave. I have always found shaving a very relaxing experience however when I shave in the morning Im not as relaxed as in the evening once the day is through.
 
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