Gun blue?

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West Yorkshire
I could ask this question on SRP, but I'd be overwhelmed with replies, and I can just imagine how it would deteriorate into one of those "what's your favourite sub machine gun for everyday carry?" threads.

So: has anyone used gun bluing compound? What it is, I've got one of these:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/index.php/Wester_Bros_%22Anchor_Brand%22_4/8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.straightrazorplace.com/srpwi ... and%22_4/8</a><!-- m -->
which has a blued tang. Unfortunately there are no friction washers, and the scales have rubbed away the bluing in places. Since the scales are going anyway (warped), I'd like to restore the tang finish, but I don't know how easy or otherwise it would be to stop the compound bleeding onto the blade itself. I can't see masking tape doing the job somehow. Is it a matter of masking at all, or buffing away any excess afterwards? I believe these compounds penetrate somewhat even on hard polished steel. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Hello Andy,

I have only used the semi-hot bluing salts - its difficult to mask with these and you have to buff away the blue from areas you want to appear bright. This type of blue is very tenacious and hard wearing compared to the cold-applied bluing mixes, so if you have pits in areas that are to remain bright - no matter how small they are, they will have to be levelled to get the blue out.

A safer option would probably be one of the cold blue mixes you can get from gun shops - these don't adhere particularly well, and you can mask areas (with nail varnish or rubber cement for example, after thorough degreasing). You would have the same problem with the scales rubbing the blue away again, so it would be better to dismantle and put washers in place to keep the tang away from the scales.

Otherwise just buff all the blue away and leave bright!

Regards,
Neil

PS: just occurred to me - you could remove the blade, remove the old finish, degrease and use the old method of rust-bluing. The bits that aren't to be blued are coated with wax or bitumen (etchers hard ground). I won't go into the process but it is very simple and there are a lot of instructions on the web. Takes a bit of time, but is said to give a superior finish with a plummy red/blue finish.
 
Thanks Neil. I've just had a look for rust bluing information, and it looks as if you'd run the risk of arrest under the terrorism legislation if you tried to get hold of some of the ingredients mentioned. Sounds like a superior method though, and I wonder why I hadn't heard of it before.

Anyway, I think it will come down to one of the cold liquids or pastes which should be adequate given the amount of wear a razor tang will get. Most of the original finish is intact where it hasn't rubbed, and it looks good enough to try and restore it rather than polish it away. I've still got a pair of those outsized washers you sent me to provide some clearance if only I can remember your instructions: "wallop them with a hammer until they're thin enough" was the gist, wasn't it? :D
 
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