Just wondering if it is common practice here to adjust the razor according to the purpose - adjusting down for the neck but ramping up for other areas. I am wondering if adjusting up is an alternative to ATG which for some can cause bumps and ingrown hairs. Or are you a 'set it and forget it' kind of shaver?
Do you adjust your adjustable?
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You use a Feather in that FatBoy?
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Sorry Tony, yes that was aimed at you. I always put a Feather in mine, and it's a good shave, but I don't use it as much as my Merkur so I'm not as practised with it. Just made a decision to use it all next week.antdad said:
I just wondered if the Feather was your blade of choice with the FatBoy, or if you found another blade works better.
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I've tried an Iridium Super on a few occasions but the Feather works best for me.
Now that my touch and feel is much better I can crank it right up with no adverse affects.
It's a very nice shave, but I'd give yourself three weeks, a week to rid yourself of the muscle memory of the Merkur, a week to get used to the Fat Boy. Then a week to sell the Merkur :shock:
Only kidding they are just very different beasts.
Now that my touch and feel is much better I can crank it right up with no adverse affects.
It's a very nice shave, but I'd give yourself three weeks, a week to rid yourself of the muscle memory of the Merkur, a week to get used to the Fat Boy. Then a week to sell the Merkur :shock:
Only kidding they are just very different beasts.
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I do and it is always up, the natural thing is to want to to dial it down on subsequent passes. I used adjustable almost every day for a year (a phase I went through) and think of it as mowing the lawn when its long, you go straight in too low and it clogs up. With my Futur and a a good heavy growth it is 1.5 in first pass, 3 on the second and then 4 or 5 (dependent on blade) for those little areas.
This approach works well with a Fatboy, trust me it works better going up with each pass. I have had my Fatboy wide open with a Feather and not drew blood t sore (Pig Cat Joke to be added here), just be more gentle and lather well on those swirly growth areas, use the brush to lift them.
Disclaimer:- Also have the Styptic pen on hand just in case
This approach works well with a Fatboy, trust me it works better going up with each pass. I have had my Fatboy wide open with a Feather and not drew blood t sore (Pig Cat Joke to be added here), just be more gentle and lather well on those swirly growth areas, use the brush to lift them.
Disclaimer:- Also have the Styptic pen on hand just in case
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- #11
So for one at least, it's a case of dial the knob to 11, okay 9, and don't look back!
But for most its pass based, ramping up and not so much 'neck Vs cheeks' or 'sensitive vs non-sensitive' areas.
For me I have been setting the Progress to 2 and leaving it at that. I have given up on ATG as my skin doesn't appreciate it. As an alternative, I am thinking of dialing up and using the buffing technique as demonstrated on Mantic59 vids to get closer.
But for most its pass based, ramping up and not so much 'neck Vs cheeks' or 'sensitive vs non-sensitive' areas.
For me I have been setting the Progress to 2 and leaving it at that. I have given up on ATG as my skin doesn't appreciate it. As an alternative, I am thinking of dialing up and using the buffing technique as demonstrated on Mantic59 vids to get closer.
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There is no one correct method of using an adjustable but this is what I found worked when trying to find what settings work best...
Find the ONE setting that will give you an acceptable shave (DFS) with a couple of passes WTG and XTG.
If you want something CLOSER "dial around that" setting, for example if I can get a DFS from a 2 pass shave with my Fatboy on 5 and I want something closer then set it on 4 then 6. The "mowing grass principle" applies for the first two or three passes in other words use a less aggressive setting to start.
If you have some difficult areas there are a two approaches you can use, the safest method is to dial the razor right down and "blade buff" that area. The less aggressive setting should enable you to work around that area with less irritation and less concern for the correct blade angle.
You can of course dial up and buff but personally if you can handle a razor on an aggressive setting in a difficult area you might as well complete a whole pass on that setting.
Which really leads me to the last option, if you are feeling confident crank it up , larger blade gap, exposure and a sharp blade should deal with most problem areas.
WARNING: The Gillette adjustable's are mild compared to the Merkur's, just because you can adjust doesn't always mean you should, sometimes a DFS on one setting is good enough.
Find the ONE setting that will give you an acceptable shave (DFS) with a couple of passes WTG and XTG.
If you want something CLOSER "dial around that" setting, for example if I can get a DFS from a 2 pass shave with my Fatboy on 5 and I want something closer then set it on 4 then 6. The "mowing grass principle" applies for the first two or three passes in other words use a less aggressive setting to start.
If you have some difficult areas there are a two approaches you can use, the safest method is to dial the razor right down and "blade buff" that area. The less aggressive setting should enable you to work around that area with less irritation and less concern for the correct blade angle.
You can of course dial up and buff but personally if you can handle a razor on an aggressive setting in a difficult area you might as well complete a whole pass on that setting.
Which really leads me to the last option, if you are feeling confident crank it up , larger blade gap, exposure and a sharp blade should deal with most problem areas.
WARNING: The Gillette adjustable's are mild compared to the Merkur's, just because you can adjust doesn't always mean you should, sometimes a DFS on one setting is good enough.
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- #13
Thanks for the advice - that expression 'there are many ways to skin a cat' springs to mind!
I only own one razor and that is the Merkur Progress- Long handle and I find that Derbys are good but Feathers are too severe. But I may return to Feather now that I have developed a lighter touch and better lathering skills.
The turning down of the aggressiveness and 'blade buffing' is something I am keen to try. I was trying it with a Gillette Bleue Extra, but dialled to 4, and wasn't happy with the process nor having to buff at all. The blade's reducing ability through the passes pales in comparison to the Derby which seems to consistently work best for me, at least in my one and only razor.
I only own one razor and that is the Merkur Progress- Long handle and I find that Derbys are good but Feathers are too severe. But I may return to Feather now that I have developed a lighter touch and better lathering skills.
The turning down of the aggressiveness and 'blade buffing' is something I am keen to try. I was trying it with a Gillette Bleue Extra, but dialled to 4, and wasn't happy with the process nor having to buff at all. The blade's reducing ability through the passes pales in comparison to the Derby which seems to consistently work best for me, at least in my one and only razor.
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A Feather in a Progress could be a bit much but see how it goes, might be worth trying something like a Gillette 7' oclock sharpedge Yellow or Iridium Super which are not quite as harsh as Feather but a bit sharper than a Derby. I'm sure there are others that might fit the bill.
If the buffing with a Derby on a less aggressive setting is pulling and tugging just stop, it's not sharp enough.
If the buffing with a Derby on a less aggressive setting is pulling and tugging just stop, it's not sharp enough.
With a Progress I begin with 5 on the planes of my face and WTG on the neck.
Then down to 4 for the curvy bits around my chin and ATG on the neck, and finish with 3 under the nose and cleaning up directly under the chin.
Counter-intuitive? - possibly, but it works for me.
NB: I habitually use well-behaved blades such as Treet Dura-Sharp and Supermax stainless.
Then down to 4 for the curvy bits around my chin and ATG on the neck, and finish with 3 under the nose and cleaning up directly under the chin.
Counter-intuitive? - possibly, but it works for me.
NB: I habitually use well-behaved blades such as Treet Dura-Sharp and Supermax stainless.
- Thread Starter
- #16
antdad said:
Tried a Feather today and was surprised - it didn't feel like a Feather, as I remembered it. Didn't go for BBS and didn't draw blood. Above the corner of the mouth, that curve is where the buffing is most necessary and it went well but kept it tame at level 2. But is the stretching of skin important - I think it is something I am not that conscious of.
I have some Gillette Thai Super Thin blades that I have been meaning to try. In terms of sharpness, are these between Derby and Feather, but closer to Feather?