Cleaning a Badger Brush

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164
Hi,

I know there is a discussion about cleaning second hand brushes, but this one is mine, and is not in need of sterilising, as far as I know.

However, there is a little build up of soap scum where the hairs meet the handle, that I would like to remove. There are reports on youtube that a 5 minute soak in 50% spirit vinegar (with 50% water) will do the trick, but I thought I would ask here for any experiences before I went ahead.

The brush is one of Fido's, so I would hate to mess it up in any way, as it has given excellent service for the past couple of years, and apart from the scum, is in fine fettle.

Any guidance appreciated.
 
Hi,

I know there is a discussion about cleaning second hand brushes, but this one is mine, and is not in need of sterilising, as far as I know.

However, there is a little build up of soap scum where the hairs meet the handle, that I would like to remove. There are reports on youtube that a 5 minute soak in 50% spirit vinegar (with 50% water) will do the trick, but I thought I would ask here for any experiences before I went ahead.

The brush is one of Fido's, so I would hate to mess it up in any way, as it has given excellent service for the past couple of years, and apart from the scum, is in fine fettle.

Any guidance appreciated.
That method will work just fine, you could once soaked run a comb through it carefully , I comb my brushes from the base to the tips from time to time and this will help keep the brush in tip top clean condition.
The trick is to clean your brush by rinsing out after each use and then hang upside down untill dry, then a quick comb and you are ready for your next shave. If you look after your brushes like this they will last much longer. I hope this is of some help. :)
 
I use MAC brush cleaner, which is a liquid. Don't know about vinegar/water 50/50 mixture, but remember that vinegar is an acid so you might want to try diluting it more.
I cannot see how a 50/50 dilute solution of vinegar and water will harm the brush at all, women have been using such a solution as a hair cleaner/ conditioner for hundreds of years, long before these modern hair products had been around, it is acidic but it is so weak you can put it on chips undiluted. It will just soften up any dry soap residue before being rinsed off with water, a five minute soak in such a weak solution will do the brush no harm what so ever. The OP of course could use a off the shelf brush cleaner but it is probably much the same but will cost a great deal more.
 
I cannot see how a 50/50 dilute solution of vinegar and water will harm the brush at all, women have been using such a solution as a hair cleaner/ conditioner for hundreds of years, long before these modern hair products had been around, it is acidic but it is so weak you can put it on chips undiluted. It will just soften up any dry soap residue before being rinsed off with water, a five minute soak in such a weak solution will do the brush no harm what so ever. The OP of course could use a off the shelf brush cleaner but it is probably much the same but will cost a great deal more.
You are probably correct that a 50/50 vinegar/water solution would not adversely affect a brush if it were not soaked too long; I was just advising caution and that a slightly weaker solution might do the trick. As for a commercial brush cleaner, I agree that it would be significantly more expensive than a home-made cleaner. I was offering it as an option. I use MAC because I'm not willing to risk my expensive badgers on a home brew; moreover, the cost of MAC brush cleaner, and the frequency I use it, relative to the cost of some of my badgers is not material.
 
You are probably correct that a 50/50 vinegar/water solution would not adversely affect a brush if it were not soaked too long; I was just advising caution and that a slightly weaker solution might do the trick. As for a commercial brush cleaner, I agree that it would be significantly more expensive than a home-made cleaner. I was offering it as an option. I use MAC because I'm not willing to risk my expensive badgers on a home brew; moreover, the cost of MAC brush cleaner, and the frequency I use it, relative to the cost of some of my badgers is not material.
It seems strange to me when you question the use of a very weak vinegar and water solution and say that you are not willing to risk you're expensive badger brushes on a home brew when when you look into what is in MAC brush cleaner you will find SD alcohol, (ethanol) which apart from being toxic will do more damage to a brush than a vinegar solution , MAC also contains isopropyl alcohol , also toxic and another alcohol , and it contains a colouring agent and a perfume and water. So you're MAC brush cleaner is mostly alcohol with something to mask the alcohol smell and coloured water. You could drink the vinegar solution and be fine, if you was to drink you're MAC brush cleaner you would need to go to the hospital , alcohol is much more damaging to any hair than vinegar, so I think in this case the home brew wins hands down, and just one more point why do you need to use a brush cleaner ? If you clean your expensive badger brushes after each use with running warm water and dry upside down you should never have to resort to using any brush cleaner, commercial or home made.
 
Folks,

Thanks for all the wise advice. I shall give some vinegar a try.

Out of interest, I do actually thoroughly rinse my brush and leave it to dry on a stand each day, but after a couple of years, there is a definite build up of scum at the very base of the brush. I guess it varies according to soaps used, and hardness of the water?
 
Folks,

Thanks for all the wise advice. I shall give some vinegar a try.

Out of interest, I do actually thoroughly rinse my brush and leave it to dry on a stand each day, but after a couple of years, there is a definite build up of scum at the very base of the brush. I guess it varies according to soaps used, and hardness of the water?
I comb my brushes from the base, do it gently and this will stop build up. It could have something to do with hard water, I live in a soft water region so do not find this. :)
 
It seems strange to me when you question the use of a very weak vinegar and water solution and say that you are not willing to risk you're expensive badger brushes on a home brew when when you look into what is in MAC brush cleaner you will find SD alcohol, (ethanol) which apart from being toxic will do more damage to a brush than a vinegar solution , MAC also contains isopropyl alcohol , also toxic and another alcohol , and it contains a colouring agent and a perfume and water. So you're MAC brush cleaner is mostly alcohol with something to mask the alcohol smell and coloured water. You could drink the vinegar solution and be fine, if you was to drink you're MAC brush cleaner you would need to go to the hospital , alcohol is much more damaging to any hair than vinegar, so I think in this case the home brew wins hands down, and just one more point why do you need to use a brush cleaner ? If you clean your expensive badger brushes after each use with running warm water and dry upside down you should never have to resort to using any brush cleaner, commercial or home made.
Touché; I concede the debate.:( I'll try vinegar and water when next I need to clean a brush, which is very infrequently.
 
I was going to say make sure you keep away from its mouth but I will be sensible and say try using a mild Borax Substitute instead. That is not from me it is what Edwin Jagger recommend for their Badger brushes to prevent mildew and smell etc.
 
Stick some feelers out to your loved ones' this Christmas. If you end up with a couple of brush pressies in rotation, Fido's finest will last for ages, with just a rinse and a gentle strop on your bathrobe. Water is like titanium here, it's so hard, but a New Forest shrugs it all off.
A careful rinse is needed though, as it's such a lather beast.
 
Me I prefer the simple method.

lather with dish soap. rinse. soak in 3/4 cup warm water and 1/8 to 1/4 cup vinegar.

periodically take a super soft toothbrush and brush base of knot. brush from handle outwards into knot. THAT does wonders.
 
Gents,

I have lost count of the number of times we have received brushes returned to us deemed as faulty through excess bristle loss when on closer examination & in around 99.9% of the cases the knot has been poorly maintained or not cared for properly.

The most important aspect post shave is the thorough cleaning of the brush, primarily the knot.

Rinse through thoroughly, the downward stream of clean warm water from the tap into the centre of the knot, but not too violent with the speed at which the bristles are rinsed - a slow flow if you will.

Squeeze the base off the knot gently & repeat until you are absolutely certain all soap or cream residue has been removed.

Shake the brush carefully & gently stroke the bristles side to side on a soft towel to remove any excess moisture.

Leave to stand the brush (or hang) in a well vented space, not a dark stagnant cupboard & preferably next to a slightly open window to ensure a good airflow through the bristles for quicker drying.

Rotate between a minimum of two brushes allowing a minimum 48 hour drying time window between shaves.

When completely dry it's always good to give the knot an occasional comb to dislodge any loose or short hairs that naturally will present themselves from time to time.

A monthly or bi-monthly shampoo of the knot using a good quality hair product will do no harm either as a regular maintenance form of good practice.

Its very difficult telling a customer they have contributed to the demise of their shaving brush by failing to follow some fairly basic instructions & common sense.

They will always demand a free of charge replacement no matter what they are told.

If you buy a new set of Callaway's and spend half the round playing shots of the buggy paths or car parks, the manufacturer isn't going to look too favourably at an exchange option (using a very exaggerated analogy).

Ultimately, like any item, preventative care & regular maintenenace are the key.

This may help, it may not?

Mark
 
Gents,

I have lost count of the number of times we have received brushes returned to us deemed as faulty through excess bristle loss when on closer examination & in around 99.9% of the cases the knot has been poorly maintained or not cared for properly.

The most important aspect post shave is the thorough cleaning of the brush, primarily the knot.

Rinse through thoroughly, the downward stream of clean warm water from the tap into the centre of the knot, but not too violent with the speed at which the bristles are rinsed - a slow flow if you will.

Squeeze the base off the knot gently & repeat until you are absolutely certain all soap or cream residue has been removed.

Shake the brush carefully & gently stroke the bristles side to side on a soft towel to remove any excess moisture.

Leave to stand the brush (or hang) in a well vented space, not a dark stagnant cupboard & preferably next to a slightly open window to ensure a good airflow through the bristles for quicker drying.

Rotate between a minimum of two brushes allowing a minimum 48 hour drying time window between shaves.

When completely dry it's always good to give the knot an occasional comb to dislodge any loose or short hairs that naturally will present themselves from time to time.

A monthly or bi-monthly shampoo of the knot using a good quality hair product will do no harm either as a regular maintenance form of good practice.

Its very difficult telling a customer they have contributed to the demise of their shaving brush by failing to follow some fairly basic instructions & common sense.

They will always demand a free of charge replacement no matter what they are told.

If you buy a new set of Callaway's and spend half the round playing shots of the buggy paths or car parks, the manufacturer isn't going to look too favourably at an exchange option (using a very exaggerated analogy).

Ultimately, like any item, preventative care & regular maintenenace are the key.

This may help, it may not?

Mark

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