Blade quality

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565
Location
Fife, Scotland
I read that a good blade 'sings' when plucked. I have a Timor razor which doesn't. Is this an inferior blade?

I only managed a couple of shaves with it before it went blunt so I wondered.

I haven't managed to save up to but a hone yet but if it doesn't hold an edge I don't think I'll bother.
 
"Good" doesn't really enter into it - it is a function of how hollow the blade is ground. There are plenty of 'good' blades ground to less than full hollow that will never 'sing' - even some full hollows will not sing, or sing much more quietly than a blade which is ground a little past full hollow - the extra-full hollow grinds. Some are ground so thin that the blade is ultra flexible, and just blowing over it can give rise to a musical note - the blade takes on the quality of a tuning fork.

The vintage Timors were of much better quality - I'd say leagues ahead - than the new ones. The new Timors are very cheap and are considered an entry-level razor (they do take a decent edge, however), but you still need some degree of finesse with both shaving and stropping to maintain a sharp edge for any length of time.

Regards,
Neil
 
Neil Miller said:
"Good" doesn't really enter into it - it is a function of how hollow the blade is ground. There are plenty of 'good' blades ground to less than full hollow that will never 'sing' - even some full hollows will not sing, or sing much more quietly than a blade which is ground a little past full hollow - the extra-full hollow grinds. Some are ground so thin that the blade is ultra flexible, and just blowing over it can give rise to a musical note - the blade takes on the quality of a tuning fork.

The vintage Timors were of much better quality - I'd say leagues ahead - than the new ones. The new Timors are very cheap and are considered an entry-level razor (they do take a decent edge, however), but you still need some degree of finesse with both shaving and stropping to maintain a sharp edge for any length of time.

Regards,
Neil

Thanks Neil. I will invest in a hone and keep practicing.

I have also read about the hanging hair test to check the sharpness of a blade. I tried this with a DE blade and it failed, yet it gave me a great shave. I think I should stop shaving. :lol:
 
Hi Parwin - I wouldn't rely on the HHT as a general indicator of shave-readiness - there are too many variables (hair condition, hair type, hone type, relative humidity, etc) to take into consideration. As you have found, a blade can give a great shave without passing the HHT!

It's chief benefit (in my opinion) is to the person honing the razor: once you have got everything standardised and find that the HHT is behaving as a good indicator that your razor is honing properly, then you have something to aid you. But you have to 'dial-it-in' by honing a lot for it reach that level. Based on just a few samples it really isn't a good indicator. Based on hundreds of examples it probably is.

I don't subscribe to the other extreme either - that is, that it is just a parlour trick. I have tried it on many razors before stropping them, expecting it to fail (it does usually) and then after stropping - when the razor usually passes. That tells me that the strop is having a measurable difference on the edge of the blade. If the shave is then good, then the HHT as an indicator is good.

Before investing in a hone (you will want a fine finishing hone, something not less than 10,000 and preferably more like 12,000 or 16,000 grit) you might want to try something inexpensive like chrome oxide on a firm base (strip of leather glued to wood, for example, or a block of trued-up balsa wood) - that will bring back the edge if it hasn't gone too far at very little cost, and with judicious use you can keep the edge going for a very long time.

Regards,
Neil
 
Neil Miller said:
Before investing in a hone (you will want a fine finishing hone, something not less than 10,000 and preferably more like 12,000 or 16,000 grit) you might want to try something inexpensive like chrome oxide on a firm base (strip of leather glued to wood, for example, or a block of trued-up balsa wood) - that will bring back the edge if it hasn't gone too far at very little cost, and with judicious use you can keep the edge going for a very long time.

Regards,
Neil

Thanks again Neil. Very informative. I will try the chrome oxide (just checked it out on your site) and see how that goes. :)
 
I agree with Neil.HHT is something so personal in most of the cases,,,, If you are happy with the results there not much tests to do.If not go step by step. Chrome oxid on balsa wood is what I use. When that doesn´t work after some time I touch up on a barber hone and once a year I send to a honemeister.
 
Deveron-13 said:
I agree with Neil.HHT is something so personal in most of the cases,,,, If you are happy with the results there not much tests to do.If not go step by step. Chrome oxid on balsa wood is what I use. When that doesn´t work after some time I touch up on a barber hone and once a year I send to a honemeister.


I have ordered some Chrome Oxide from Neil and popped into a hobby shop yesterday and bought a peice of balsa. Once it arrives I will give it a go.

Thanks for the advice Guys.
 
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