Wood or Acrylic? POLL.

[TeP]

I've been asked to make a shaving brush for a friend, he has asked for a wood handle.

Now the question, in your experience how do wooden brush handles last, for example, and primarily, the look after prolonged use. I'm trying to convince him to have an acrylic handle, simply because I don't like the idea of the finish deteriorating on my work. With the possibly of complaints as well.

In my experience there is no finish that lasts on wood after prolonged submersion in water.

 

[John]

Never had a wooden Handel on a brush for that very reason, nothing wrong with them they look beautiful, but for me its Acrylic.

 

[Burgundy]

I think that wood has to be less practical a material - even though it's tactile and looks good. I have a few wooden Semogues. The painted handle of my 1520 hasn't stood up particularly well to the test of time (chipped) but the knot's fine. I don't think there's an issue, though, as long as the brush is treated with a little more TLC. I now soak the tips of the brush in a mug, rather than dumping the whole brush in the sink, and afterwards conscientiously towel dry the handle before hanging it upside down on a stand. My Semogue Owners Club handles (in ash and cherry) are pristine.

As long as your friend goes into it with his eyes open a bit, I don't see the problem. If he's the sort who you wouldn't trust to maintain even a pot plant, then you might be a little firmer on pushing acrylic.

 

[TeP]

I think that wood has to be less practical a material - even though it's tactile and looks good. I have a few wooden Semogues. The painted handle of my 1520 hasn't stood up particularly well to the test of time (chipped) but the knot's fine. I don't think there's an issue, though, as long as the brush is treated with a little more TLC. I now soak the tips of the brush in a mug, rather than dumping the whole brush in the sink, and afterwards conscientiously towel dry the handle before hanging it upside down on a stand. My Semogue Owners Club handles (in ash and cherry) are pristine.

As long as your friend goes into it with his eyes open a bit, I don't see the problem. If he's the sort who you wouldn't trust to maintain even a pot plant, then you might be a little firmer on pushing acrylic.

Many thanks Burgundy, the pot plant could just be about right.

 

[Bechet]

How it is done, I've not the foggiest, but many of my wooden handles are finished with super-glue. This gives a high shine, complete water resistance and chip resistance (none so far but then I don'r abuse my brushes).

Some of my favourites are burls and thus the handle surface would be covered in little 'holes' but the super-glue fills them all in and we get a very smooth finish - almost like acrylic in many ways. I'm guessing that what I see is a polished surface but no idea what is used to polish with.

 

[IanM]

Before I shave I just tend to lob my brush into a sink of warm water, which would eventually be bad for a wooden handle, and not quite as bad for acrylic, so acrylic it is.

Ian

 

[WiffWaff]

Before I shave I just tend to lob my brush into a sink of warm water, which would eventually be bad for a wooden handle, and not quite as bad for acrylic, so acrylic it is.

Ian

+1

 

[Tall_Paul]

I rotate my brushes once a week, and have three wooden handled ones (all Semogues).

I too just lob mine in the sink to soak. I haven't noticed any issues at all with doing it and I suspect by the time the handles are ready for replacing I probably won't be in a fit state to shave myself (if I'm still here at all).

Besides, it's just an excuse to buy another brush!

 

[factormax]

Before I shave I just tend to lob my brush into a sink of warm water, which would eventually be bad for a wooden handle, and not quite as bad for acrylic, so acrylic it is.

Ian

And me.

 

[TeP]

How it is done, I've not the foggiest, but many of my wooden handles are finished with super-glue. This gives a high shine, complete water resistance and chip resistance (none so far but then I don'r abuse my brushes).

Some of my favourites are burls and thus the handle surface would be covered in little 'holes' but the super-glue fills them all in and we get a very smooth finish - almost like acrylic in many ways. I'm guessing that what I see is a polished surface but no idea what is used to polish with.

I have used the super glue method on pens, but never on wood which is to be submerged. I've got several finishes which I could use, but wanted to see what experience of others would bring up.

 

[Gairdner]

Cyanoacrylate would be the super glue finish, I think? The block of wood from which the handle is to be made could first be sent for stabilization/plasticization. There's a few guys on the knife forums that do this and it basically involves forcing cycanoacrylate or other substance into every single pore of the wood under pressure until its totally penetrated. Still retains the character of the wood but is then totally impervious to water. What I tend do with spoons or cups I've carved and the occasional knife handle, is lob them into a bath of Tung oil and leave it there for three days, remove it and wipe down everyday till the oil dries. The stuff I've made has seen some hard use and is none the worse for wear finish wise. A wee polish every now and then would maintain the appearance but other than that, the handle should be good. It also depends on what would is used. Couldn't see Sweet Chestnut or Yew rotting anytime soon.

 

[Bechet]

My impression , given by turners, and my observation of the brushes suggests that he super-glue is applied after the wood has been turned - that it is, literally, a finish. There is a considerable thickness of the 'laquer' all over the handle.

I believe stabilised wood is a different thing. And I may well have the wrong end of the stick entirelly. Any experts about?

 

[John]

Little bit off topic but along the same lines fret less guitars,some luthiers use super glue on rosewood finger boards to seal them in making the finish tough as old boots,since the finish is super glue the player would have to go some to chip the finish.

 

[Gairdner]

My impression , given by turners, and my observation of the brushes suggests that he super-glue is applied after the wood has been turned - that it is, literally, a finish. There is a considerable thickness of the 'laquer' all over the handle.

I believe stabilised wood is a different thing. And I may well have the wrong end of the stick entirelly. Any experts about?

You are spot on. The cyanoacrylate finish used on brush handles is a surface finish and yes, stabilized wood is a different thing. It's not that expensive to have done and I can't see why more shaving brushes aren't made with plasticized or stabilized wood given the hostile environment they are used in. It's often used on knife handles but the range of temperatures, complete immersion and attack by soap alkalis, would suggest this to be a prime use.

 

[Bechet]

My impression , given by turners, and my observation of the brushes suggests that he super-glue is applied after the wood has been turned - that it is, literally, a finish. There is a considerable thickness of the 'laquer' all over the handle.

I believe stabilised wood is a different thing. And I may well have the wrong end of the stick entirelly. Any experts about?

You are spot on. The cyanoacrylate finish used on brush handles is a surface finish and yes, stabilized wood is a different thing. It's not that expensive to have done and I can't see why more shaving brushes aren't made with plasticized or stabilized wood given the hostile environment they are used in. It's often used on knife handles but the range of temperatures, complete immersion and attack by soap alkalis, would suggest this to be a prime use.

There is nothing hostile about my bathroom environment, darling - come up and see it sometime!

 

[Gairdner]

Hehehe, very nearly spat my tea out and my mother is here! :icon_lol:

Only if you wear the leopard skin mankini again.