scratch removal and polishing

B

barberbob

Messages
296
Hi guys

I am sure I may have asked this before but cant't for the life of me find the post.

I got a few D.E razors that basically have loads of scratches and need a good polish and clean.

Whats the best way to get the scratches out? Fine sandpaper?

I have dremel if that helps, lol.

Also what attachments/compounds are good to use with the dremel for polishing?

Are polishing mops for bench polishers/drills any good?

Thanks
 
Carl is spot on. You don't polish out scratches, you remove metal down to the same depth as the scratch. In most cases with manufactured razors, that means you will be down to base metal because the coating is so thin.

I use a range of greaseless compounds and other polishing compounds on carbon and stainless steel - including Mazerna. You really need to study what they are intended for before you start to use them as the cutting/polishing elements vary - and what is good for one metal will not apply to another. Then again, there are compounds suitable for plastics and woods alone. The fact is, they are only really effective on wheels at relatively high speeds - apart from plastics which can easily melt if you use high speeds. See what I mean?

Much as I admire Dr Terror's posts, I sometimes think that they are tempting people into doing things with a polishing mop without realising the consequences.
 
I much prefer the word burnish to polish as it implies oh so light polishing, at least in my mind. Too many people think if a little polish is good then a lot must be better. Incorrect, as there is a PODR (point of diminishing return). I have tried many polishes through the years on metals and swear by the old German Happich Simichrome. Flitz is great also:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...ichrome.TRS0&_nkw=happich+simichrome&_sacat=0

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/items/?_n...=&LH_CAds=&clk_rvr_id=922118860138&rmvSB=true
 
Bogeyman said:
I much prefer the word burnish to polish as it implies oh so light polishing, at least in my mind.
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I'm not sure that burnish is the correct term - it is usually described as smoothing using two objects rubbed together - or using a specific burnishing tool to smooth another object. Neil Miller also used it when describing the action of stropping a razor on leather - the leather was effectively burnishing the razor's bevel.
 
Thanks for the replies so far guys.

UKRob said:
Carl is spot on. You don't polish out scratches, you remove metal down to the same depth as the scratch. In most cases with manufactured razors, that means you will be down to base metal because the coating is so thin.
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I dont mind going down to the base metal onf them as I was planning on replating. The whole point in trying to remove the scratches is so I dont get lovely plated lines across the top of the razor, hence why I was asking about sandpaper too.
 
UKRob said:
Carl is spot on. You don't polish out scratches, you remove metal down to the same depth as the scratch. In most cases with manufactured razors, that means you will be down to base metal because the coating is so thin.

I use a range of greaseless compounds and other polishing compounds on carbon and stainless steel - including Mazerna. You really need to study what they are intended for before you start to use them as the cutting/polishing elements vary - and what is good for one metal will not apply to another. Then again, there are compounds suitable for plastics and woods alone. The fact is, they are only really effective on wheels at relatively high speeds - apart from plastics which can easily melt if you use high speeds. See what I mean?

Much as I admire Dr Terror's posts, I sometimes think that they are tempting people into doing things with a polishing mop without realising the consequences.
Click to expand...

I really did not mean to lull other members into a false sense of security with any of my posts!,I will be the first to admit,I have a 'hands on' method to my madness!,I have taught myself how to do many things,all by trial an error,BUT by learning as much as I can on the subject beforehand!.
I didn't just buy a bench grinder and a polishing kit,and get great results!,I have been hand buffing/polishing vintage items for well over 20 years,using a 'dremel' with different compounds for about 10 years,so with a bit of research,I could transfer those skills to the bench grinder/polisher...
 
barberbob said:
I assume you go right through the grades to 2000?
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Talc was used as the final compound for the final finish polish on many fine firearms. I've used it after a light polish with Crocus Cloth. Normally, the latter was 1200 grit, but today there are grades going up to a mind numbing 6000!! I'd be afraid to use that as I might get sued by a fly when it landed, slipped & broke a leg!! :p ;)
 
Burnishing: "to make smooth and glossy" ... "to improve lustre" ... a word I always used to describe that final phase of automotive valeting where an almost dry, absolutely minimal abrasive pad was buzzed over and over and over an already glorious finish, bringing out sublime lustre.

I'm going to suggest that automotive finishes are significantly thicker than plating. Car paint, depending upon manufacturer, could be anything between 80µ and 150µ (more if resprayed or of a vintage quality). How thick is plating, anyway? You have VERY little to play with before "burning through"; less, I would guess with plating although it will be stronger.
 
pjgh said:
Burnishing: "to make smooth and glossy" ... "to improve lustre" ... a word I always used to describe that final phase of automotive valeting where an almost dry, absolutely minimal abrasive pad was buzzed over and over and over an already glorious finish, bringing out sublime lustre.

I'm going to suggest that automotive finishes are significantly thicker than plating. Car paint, depending upon manufacturer, could be anything between 80µ and 150µ (more if resprayed or of a vintage quality). How thick is plating, anyway? You have VERY little to play with before "burning through"; less, I would guess with plating although it will be stronger.
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That would be me,after 12 pints,armed with a rotary,let loose on an old Lancia.....:D

Hence why I stick to a DA!...;)
 
Dr Terror said:
I stick to a DA!...;)
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Awww, baby polisher :p

Rarely do I bring him out but when I get one of those "dragged out of a hedge" kind of cars, out comes the Jolly Green Giant, a monster of a rotary, single speed 1800 RPM and weighing in at something in excess of 5lbs, he's a brute, but gets the job done!

DSCF3888.jpg


Military helicopter fans will get the connection.

Anyway, back to razor polishing ...

I must have missed these reckless posts of yours. What's your weapon of choice? Bench polisher and a dab of nano polish? I need to get a bench polisher. I'll get my lad on it ... he likes buying tools for his workshop :D
 
Stayer?,more like Slayer...:D

I quite like my DA,its a Rupes Bigfoot copy.Used with Maguires Microfibre pads + polishes,is quite effective.Got rid of a ton of scratches the dog put in the passenger door when he tried to climb through the window...whilst I was driving it :eek:.

On the bench polishing side.....I usually only use this for stuff that I plan on plating,so,nothing lost if I burn through,but I have yet to do that yet.As long as you don't go too wild,most things come out fine.A gentle touch is really what is required!.
First attack,brown tripoli,closed stitch mop.
Second wave,Blue Smurf Poo,loose cotton mop.(sometimes skip this and go straight into the next step).
Going in for the kill,I do the hard to reach bits with peek polish by hand,Then throw the whole lot into the 60C Fairy liquid/hot water,ultrasonic,to remove all remaining compound.then hand buff with a soft cotton cloth,usually does the job.Sometimes use Jewellers Rouge and Peek on a Dremel too.
If the plating is OK,after the first run in the ultrasonic,just Peek,and a microfibre, or soft cotton cloth on brass.
I do mix and match other compounds and mops mind....Depends what the item in hand is made/plated with,but the above is my usual mix,seems to remove the oxidisation off everything.
 
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