Lubricating Fatboy

NotTheStig

NotTheStig

Joined
Tuesday October 26, 2010
Location
Taured
I have a very nice condition Fatboy which once the quarter turn is done turns very smoothly. Unfortunately that first quarter turn is very stiff. It has been cleaned before and after sale (in the latter case twice in my ultrasonic). I have tried putting baby oil (since it is essentially mineral oil) down the top hole, turning the razor upside down and pouring it down the bottom of it, and trying to get some in the join where we twist it. Nothing seems to work. Any ideas? Don't want to take it apart
 
NotTheStig said:
No ideas?
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I'll assume you've checked the normal stuff (bent end caps, silo door arms. etc)

When I've had tight or squeky one's, I put them in a small container (clip it type food containers) and fill that with oil, 3 in 1 or baby oil for a couple of days. It gives it chance to really soak through and no chance of any harm to the plating or paint, it usually does the job.

If that doesn't cure it, something inside must be bent a bit.
 
That is strange, you'd think if the centre rod was bent it would be stiff the whole way. When you soak it, do it with the doors wide open that way nearly all the internal thread will be exposed.

I was going to reply with "when I've had a stiff fatboy" but thought better of it, as that would leave the door wide open for pigcat:icon_lol:
 
Erm..do you mean it's stiff to open through it's first 1/4 turn after it's been clamped shut?

If so it's supposed to, thats the locking mechanism.
 
antdad said:
Erm..do you mean it's stiff to open through it's first 1/4 turn after it's been clamped shut?

If so it's supposed to, thats the locking mechanism.
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Yes, I figured out that it should offer a bit more resistance than the rest of the mechanism :icon_rolleyes:. I have another Fatboy I use as a more day-to-day razor to compare it to (replated in gold) and the first quarter turn has a bit of resistance to it but it isn't stiff like the nickel plated one is. The nickel one - the one I'm concerned about - also has what feels like two notchy points when I turn it more slowly during this initial quarter turn. Once past this point it opens more smoothly than my gold one, which seems odd to me.

I'll try soaking it in a container full of baby oil like Jamies suggested over the weekend. And thanks also for the suggestion about leaving the doors open when soaking.
 
Jamies said:
That is strange, you'd think if the centre rod was bent it would be stiff the whole way. When you soak it, do it with the doors wide open that way nearly all the internal thread will be exposed.

I was going to reply with "when I've had a stiff fatboy" but thought better of it, as that would leave the door wide open for pigcat:icon_lol:
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Your in luck - he's away on holiday with his family and hasn't got internet access.
 
NotTheStig said:
antdad said:
Erm..do you mean it's stiff to open through it's first 1/4 turn after it's been clamped shut?

If so it's supposed to, thats the locking mechanism.
Click to expand...
Yes, I figured out that it should offer a bit more resistance than the rest of the mechanism :icon_rolleyes:.
Click to expand...

Well I have to discount the stupid and the bleeding obvious...congratulations. ;)

There is more than one threaded element to an adjustable mechanism, that 1/4 turn lock is performed by this barely single pitch thread so I think with enough effort you should be able to degunk it or give it enough time in an ultrasonic bath.

lowerknob.jpg
 
It has been in baby oil with the doors open all weekend (48 hours give or take an hour or two) and is no better. I imagine it might be just worn. It also feels the same once the doors are fully open (once opened feels a little stiff before closing smoothly). I have 'ultrasonicked' my other, replated Fatboy and it took the numbers off. As much as possible I'd like to keep the numbers original on this. Maybe a bit of tape over them would help. Ill give it a try.
Thanks for the advice and the photo above.
 
I'd be quite surprised if it was wear, try it but not sure tape will prevent numbers from working loose, like putting a plaster over a loose filling if you get my meaning. Easy to renumber them with enamel and I defy anybody to tell the difference if done properly, other than that take it apart for a clean it's well documented.
 
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