Honing a straight razor - a total beginner's perspective

Re: RE: Honing a straight razor - a total beginner's perspective

UKRob said:
Nishy said:
Thanks I remember you mentioning earlier that you prefer a shave straight if a hone. Can I ask why this is? Is it just purely personal preference?

I still use a strop after honing - but the point I was making is that you can get a very sharp edge off a hone that is also smooth. I don't profess to understand what happens when CrOx is used but I find the edge too 'crisp' - perhaps it is similar to a feather SE blade.

Even after a couple of years I'm still very much in the learning stages when it comes to hones but have found that a Japanese natural I've had since last Christmas gives results that suit me in terms of the level of sharpness and feel. Because of that I tend not to experiment a great deal whereas others might see what differences different combinations of stones have. I've got a South African Zulu natural, Thuringian, Coticule, Welsh, plus 16k and 20k rated man-made as well as the lower grit ones.

The thing I like about the Jnat is that using different levels of slurry stone allows you to see just how the bevel is progressing. Under magnification, you see the scratch marks begin to show as hazy, then with each different slurry, the bevel gets brighter and the edge looks completely ribbon like. For whatever reason, I find it much easier to understand what the loupe is showing me when I use the Jnat.

I think it takes many years to understand and have a feel for the razor in hand and which stone will best suit it. There's a general saying that hard steel needs a softer hone - I'm nowhere near understanding the principles behind this or what other stones may suit a certain blade. However, I'm going off the subject a bit as the thread was about beginners.
Interesting Rob, I think I'm in the same boat of sticking to what I have as it works as opposed to acquiring HAD. Out of interest if an edge has a couple of very small chips is sanding the edge down the best way then continuing to set the bevel with a hone? Or does a better method exist?
 
Yes, wet and dry paper - about 400 grit is fine for removing chips. You need a light touch but a breadknifing action with the blade at about 45 degrees and changing sides often should soon get rid of relatively small chips.

Bear in mind that this will mean a complete bevel re-set and depending on the grind of the razor could take an awful lot of work. The fuller the grind, the more metal you will need to remove to form a bevel. The bevel will also be wider. So you may want to minimise this by using tape - regularly replaced.
 
Re: RE: Honing a straight razor - a total beginner's perspective

UKRob said:
Yes, wet and dry paper - about 400 grit is fine for removing chips. You need a light touch but a breadknifing action with the blade at about 45 degrees and changing sides often should soon get rid of relatively small chips.

Bear in mind that this will mean a complete bevel re-set and depending on the grind of the razor could take an awful lot of work. The fuller the grind, the more metal you will need to remove to form a bevel. The bevel will also be wider. So you may want to minimise this by using tape - regularly replaced.
Cheers for the advice
 
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