Dumping The Final Pass

Professor Blighty

Professor Blighty

Joined
Thursday September 16, 2010
I've been straight shaving now for about six months. I have a set of vintage Kropps, (6/8 round points) and a lovely 5/8 square point from Pugh The Special One.

The thing is, for no paticular reason I decided about two weeks ago to leave the shave after two passes, (first WTG, then second XTG, which I mean, slightly diagonally downwards,), and then not to bother with the ATG.

The result I have experienced is giving me food for thought. Firstly, gone is the itch and irritation I used to feel about five hours later when the stubble began to grow back. Gone is the sting when I applied the aftershave or alum. Gone is the redness I used to experience just after the shave, especially on my cheeks.

Now I grant you, the result is not the same, I can still feel stubble when I run my hand upwards across my face after the shave is completed, but you can't SEE it in the mirror, it looks the same. Clean as a whistle.

Also, I get the extra benefit that the time between shaves is shorter... where as before a three pass shave would last for 24 hours, now without the final pass it only lasts about half as long, so I can shave in the evening as well if I want to.

My face feels much better, and there is no tenderness at all now, so I thought I would just post this for generral consumption. I know there are much more experienced straight shavers out there than me, and someone may poo poo this, but it's working fine for me right now, and I have discovered a way of shaving that leaves me feeling great with no irritation at all.

At the end of the day, isn't that what we're all after?
 
I got a round-robin email from ebarbershop last week which opined that all you needed in a performance was a two pass shave, WTG.

I tried it and needed a shave about two hours later. Bloody awful state of affairs.

However I'll give your theory a try, too, Prof. It may be that I'm just a three-pass shaver - we're all different.

:-/
 
Blyth Spirit said:
I got a round-robin email from ebarbershop last week which opined that all you needed in a performance was a two pass shave, WTG.

I tried it and needed a shave about two hours later. Bloody awful state of affairs.

However I'll give your theory a try, too, Prof. It may be that I'm just a three-pass shaver - we're all different.

:-/
Click to expand...

Yep, if were all the same the BST would never any replies, and this forum would be pointless. :s
 
I agree with you Prof, for me comfort is all. Although I know you posted this in "straights", I can only speak as as a daily DE and occasional straight (learner) user. The whole BBS movement has a lot of fans but it always has the potential for soreness, redness, nicks etc.

I far prefer to shave 2 passes and have real comfort (and be able to shave again that evening if I want) rather than going ultra smooth and risking soreness.
 
An ATG pass is a recipe for irritation for me. I tend to look a bit stubbly by late afternoon/early evening, but it doesn't bother me.
 
I don't consider myself to be an expert in all aspects of shaving(or really any of them) but I have found that some razors will give you a more than acceptable shave for the whole day with only two passes. Some of the early Gillette 1904 will do that. I have a 1917, '04 that comes really close to being acceptable in 1 pass. And the muhle 41R new head will give you an all day shave in 2passes. The merkur slant is close to a 2 pass razor.
I usually just keep going until the lather in the bowls gone. Kind of push each one.

Ps. I also shave in really short choppy strokes. That might make a difference too.
 
I'm not a fan of shaving ATG, I could do do it without much irratation, but like you I tend to go once WTG then a light XTG, I find that's usually a very good shave, and better for the long term care of your skin.

Jamie.
 
Well you've inspired me. Did the straight edge thing this morning. I confess that I did do more than 2 passes. But 14 hrs later I can say that I don't even need a touch up. May be 2 would have been enough! Now that I have a baseline, I'll try for 2 next time.(may be).
 
Depending on your technique and how long you've shaved, it can be more rewarding to do more than 2 passes, but straight shaving prob does wear more on your skin than DEs do. Some say one pass is enough and maybe it is if you find yout perfect blade and have a very good technique.

For me, part of the hobby, is to have many different razors to shave with (and collect the damned things :icon_cry2:). I've settled on 2 ½ passes.

Tip: once you feel confident with your razor: start to lift the blade and go ultra easy on the touch (to the point where you don't think you're cutting stubble anymore) and then tune in the "lightest touch" shave you can do ... it can be very rewarding ... :D
 
Just the opposite today, start with all good intentions of only doing 2 passes. Not a good day. 1st blood with 1st stroke. Right at the bottom of the sideburns! 2 more cuts and I had enough. Where yesterday I couldn't do anything wrong, today I couldn't do anything right.
Finished up with the Gillette Milord. Great ending to a bad start. I think the experiment is over for me, while I still have some blood left!
 
The Feather, no sharpen, straight razor. Will the new pro guard blades have any effect on this discussion? I've only seen them on the Internet but if the literature is correct 2-3-4 passes may be equal to 2 with the original?
 
The new Feather SS armed with the ProGuard blade will easily give (assuming the technique is right there) a surprisingly close shave in 2 passes plus a couple of touch-ups.
 
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