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This is the exact same experience I have with AC blades.
I genuinely fear loading a new blade, but after 2 or 3 shaves they are so efficient and smooth.
I've been told if you run the blade through a piece of cork it takes some of the bite out of a fresh blade, I haven't tried it and I sort of feel if your paying that much money for a box of blades then you shouldn't have to tamper with them to get good results, that being said once they've settled down they on average, for me last at least 4 weeks. It's a tough one, for me I'll put up with the extra sharpness for the first couple of shaves because overall it pays off.
The AC blades were originally used in Shavettes, so can cut hair. I have used a few different blades in The Hawk, General and Claymore , and fingers crossed no blood letting. I listened to "Billy" and learnt to use a light touch on vintage SE & Injectors,which has made the move to using the AC/SE Razors quite easy, though I started off with a mild blade.I am going to wade into this as a buddy loaned me his RazoRock Hawk & three different blades. Of course, after reading this thread I am beginning to think more like three ways to do seppuku!!!
Perhaps the answer is patently obvious: these blades were not designed to cut facial hair, hence they do not have the special sputterings, coatings, etc. Maybe it's like trying to push in a thumbtack with a sledge hammer.
The AC blades were originally used in Shavettes, so can cut hair...
I did actually mean facial hair [whiskers]. Thanks for all the info/thoughts that you provided.I said facial hair. Obviously, there is a difference as we don't use box cutter blades for facial shaving. The shavette was never meant to replace the straight razor, it was meant to used in lieu of clippers from all I have read. I think the "crazy" sharp, as Fergiebilly refers to, is twofold as regards Feather blades in that they put a final third hone on what is a thicker/stiffer blade that will hold that edge longer than a thin DE blade. Now I am sure there is some logarithmic engineering formula that deals with mass/sharpness/rigidity, but I'm even more sure it's way over my head and that's before we even begin to factor in hones, sputtering, coatings, etc..What I do know is that a more rigid blade will cut with more ease than a lighter one with few exceptions. One shave with an old injector razor will prove this. Another example is a good sharp Bowie knife cutting a free hanging manila rope with one swipe whereas a pen knife, even using the same steel & hone, will not.
Just my 2 cents.
I am going to wade into this as a buddy loaned me his RazoRock Hawk & three different blades. Of course, after reading this thread I am beginning to think more like three ways to do seppuku!!!
Perhaps the answer is patently obvious: these blades were not designed to cut facial hair, hence they do not have the special sputterings, coatings, etc. Maybe it's like trying to push in a thumbtack with a sledge hammer.
I had a similar experience with Feather Pro in the Hawk @Bogeyman , i.e. somewhat tuggy and skipping. A Feather ProGuard has worked beautifully in it on the other hand. No skipping and as smooth as can be, while still being very efficient.Well, I tried the Feather Proguard blade on one one side of my face today in the aluminum Hawk. Not for me as the blade was somewhat rough and was trying to skip a tad even after a hot shower, pre-shave wash & a thorough "lashing" of the face with Stirling soap. It felt like using a wiper blade on my face due to the size!!
I have two other different blades to try if I wish, but regardless I think one is sacrificing maneuverability somewhat by using one of these face "Zeppelins".
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