water marks after 3 uses ( Ralf Aust )

plastic_paddy said:

I have read this thread with interest and from what you have reported cleaning and drying the blade perhaps the problem is acid spotting as it sounds similar to acid spotting which I experienced with my carbon steel kitchen knife.

The first time I used my knife I was cutting up a banana and black spots appeared almost immediately. From speaking to the manufacturer the low acid levels in the banana would have caused this and it is a perfectly natural reaction with carbon steel. The knife manufacturer referred to this as patina and this had nothing to do with water or the drying regime to the knife.

With respect to shaving, most shaving soaps should be alkaline based – I am sure some of our soap maker enthusiasts will confirm/deny. I believe it is alkaline because this will allow the cortex of the hair to absorb water hence softening it and making it larger hence achieving a closer shave. I have been anal enough with my tropical fish PH tester to test TABAC soap which is coming in at just above 9 so the theory holds out. It would also suggest that soap could never cause this acid spotting.

Acids (below PH7) I also believe tend to close the cortex and make the hair smoother and shiny – hair conditioner is quite acidic for the above reasons. Again tested some of the wife's conditioner and it was below 6.

Onto my point, I also tested my alum block which was below 5 and my stypic pencil which to my surprise was really low below 3.

Your water supply could also be quite acidic. I live in Ireland and in the west coast in the peaty areas the water is seriously acidic, well below the national minimum limit of PH6. Again I would only know this through fish keeping.

So onto my point with respect to possible sources of contaminates, do you live in a low PH water area, use alum or styptic pencil in part of your regime.

Not tried it on my own straights to see but may be worth dismissing from the possible list of causes.

I do sometimes use alum for my fingertips and after my shave. My water supply I couldn't tell you what the pH is but it's gorgeous drinking water. I've just returned from Florida on a family holiday and the "drinking" water there is appalling , my wife tested it with the chlorine test strips we use for the pool and the drinking water was as high in chlorine as the pool water was.
Thanks for the positive and constructive input on the subject, I used my razor today and there was no reappearance of the black marring seen after the last shave so hopefully that is an end to the matter or until the polish protection wears off.
Cheers

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MPH said:

I have been teetering on the edge of buying a straight for a while now. Glad I have been reading this as I really hadn't understood how much effort there is in keeping your razor in good condition.

I think I'll stick to my mongoose. Use...rinse...stick on shelf until next time!!!

;-) ;-) ;-)

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I have a Goose as well which I really enjoy and it is true there is very little to worry about when using them and DE'S. Although there is a lot of other things to consider when using a straight razor, honing and stropping etc there is a real sense of satisfaction in learning how to use a straight. Don't let this put you off but one piece of advice I'd give would be to skip the carbon steel and get a stainless steel one as all of my vintage SS straights never give me issues like this one has so far.
Cheers

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rjl6789 said:

I agree, when you've treated everything carefully and you get rewarded with a horrible water rash like that it sucks.

I have experience of this with a brand new Boker, Revisor and Hart steel (satin) razors. First time shave - water spots despite following my usual routine of wiping between passes on towel and with tissue at the end of the shave (making sure I'm wiping along the bevel) + stropping linen then leather. I removed the water spots with polish (autosol) and all was good from then on with the Boker and Revisor. The Hart was a water spot magnet until I treated it with a "Tuf Cloth". All of these needed a visit to the stones after the polishing to get them back to tip top condition.

I figure that my existing razors are ok following my standard routine - which eliminates reactions caused by pH of Soap, alum etc the only difference was that it was new - so maybe some kind of chemical in the factory oil / surface coating was still present after the initial clean and strop and reacted with the first shave use. Who knows.

I really hope this becomes a non issue for you as that looks like a beautiful razor. All the best.

MPH - the "effort" is what makes straight razor shaving so rewarding and so much fun! Give it a go!

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rjl6789 said:

I agree, when you've treated everything carefully and you get rewarded with a horrible water rash like that it sucks.

I have experience of this with a brand new Boker, Revisor and Hart steel (satin) razors. First time shave - water spots despite following my usual routine of wiping between passes on towel and with tissue at the end of the shave (making sure I'm wiping along the bevel) + stropping linen then leather. I removed the water spots with polish (autosol) and all was good from then on with the Boker and Revisor. The Hart was a water spot magnet until I treated it with a "Tuf Cloth". All of these needed a visit to the stones after the polishing to get them back to tip top condition.

I figure that my existing razors are ok following my standard routine - which eliminates reactions caused by pH of Soap, alum etc the only difference was that it was new - so maybe some kind of chemical in the factory oil / surface coating was still present after the initial clean and strop and reacted with the first shave use. Who knows.

I really hope this becomes a non issue for you as that looks like a beautiful razor. All the best.

MPH - the "effort" is what makes straight razor shaving so rewarding and so much fun! Give it a go!

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1morepasswill said:

This will probably be my first and last " new " carbon steel " razor , I think the best option is some vintage stainless steel from now on. Thanks for your input.
Cheers.

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UKRob said:

1morepasswill said:

This will probably be my first and last " new " carbon steel " razor , I think the best option is some vintage stainless steel from now on. Thanks for your input.
Cheers.

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I'm glad you've resolved the issue. I wouldn't let it put you off new carbon blades - the very fact that you don't have any issues with vintage suggests that Mike's last post is correct.

With regard to a touch up, I've found that it's very easy to take the edge off when polishing razors. They may not need a hone - perhaps just an extended stropping session to bring them back.

Don't do yourself out of any business Rob , I like a couple of the razors you have for sale at the minute. I'm glad I can just get on with enjoying using the razor now and not worrying about what's going to happen the next time I use it , although I think you're right about the edge after the polish and I'll maybe get the chance to use my new Crox crayon and one of my felt strop pads. Happy days. Thanks again.

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UKRob said:

Thanks. Go easy on the CrOx - it can leave a 'harsh' edge. Probably no more than 10 rounds and then use your leather strops afterwards to burnish the edge again.

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MPH said:

I have been teetering on the edge of buying a straight for a while now. Glad I have been reading this as I really hadn't understood how much effort there is in keeping your razor in good condition.

I think I'll stick to my mongoose. Use...rinse...stick on shelf until next time!!!

;-) ;-) ;-)

Click to expand...

MrK1 said:

MPH said:

I have been teetering on the edge of buying a straight for a while now. Glad I have been reading this as I really hadn't understood how much effort there is in keeping your razor in good condition.

I think I'll stick to my mongoose. Use...rinse...stick on shelf until next time!!!

;-) ;-) ;-)

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One of the reasons I haven't bought a straight. Too much effort. I just dont have the time for it yet, but something I would like to try in the future.

In the meantime I have a Kai Kamisori type to play with.

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1morepasswill said:

Finally someone else who understands and has took the time to properly read my original post.
Some people seem to think I should just be quite and be happy with my lot. All I was saying was that if this is how the blade is going to react to the way I look after it ( which I feel is perfectly adequate, and hasn't caused me these problems in the past ) and I'll have to clean it with polish every time I use it then I'm not happy with paying nearly £200 for it.
I would have been much happier to have paid £35 for a Gold Dollar and not have been too fussed if this happened. Some people just made their mind up straight away that it must be me that's the problem and barely considered the possibility that the blade was the problem and banged on about how I looked after it when I clearly outlined in my original post what my pre and post shave routine was. The fact that the blade was perfect at the beginning of the shave then developed black tarnish marks by the end of the shave seemed to have escaped some people

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1morepasswill said:

That's interesting what you said about having to take the blades to the stones after the polish because I'm happy to report after I cleaned the blade up with polish last night and I used it today there has been no reappearance of the black marring. There is still some slight shadowing from where the black marks were but i can live with that. However I didn't feel it wasn't as sharp and as smooth as the last time I used it. I may pay a visit to the stones or at least the Crox or diamond spray before my next shave.

This will probably be my first and last " new " carbon steel " razor , I think the best option is some vintage stainless steel from now on. Thanks for your input.
Cheers.

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