Shed base - help and ideas needed

Rev-O

Rev-O

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2,656
How about this: sand, levelled off, then paving slabs on top and then a "chequer-board" pattern of alternating bricks to give some lift off the damp and underfloor airspace to breath whilst still supporting the base?

It's only a 4x6 job with a few tools and a lawnmower in so I don't want to be wildly over-engineered. Also I'm a DIY YID-iot.
 
Laying paving slabs for a shed base is fine, just mix some cement with sharp sand to make a dry mix (3 or 4 to 1 ratio sand to cement). Tap and level slabs into place and then water the slabs, it will go off in a day or so. Put down a plastic membrane underneath dry mix to prevent damp, as long as the top of the slab is above the level of the surrounding ground you should be fine.

You'll need a spade, rake, level (hopefully) or straight edge and a rubber mallet.
 
Slabs then treated 2x2" strechers is what my 10x8 shed sits on and its still good. I think the shed is about 20 years old now. Helps spread the weight nicely too.
regards,beejay
 
Thanks beejay, do you lay them "every other" on an alternating basis with 2" gaps?

Is it creosoted or pressure treated wood?

Cheers

Ollie
 
My Summerhouse sits on a Raft base / Timber bearer - Crossed pressure treated wood. bit like this - <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.waltons.co.uk/portabase-for-garden-sheds" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.waltons.co.uk/portabase-for-garden-sheds</a><!-- m -->
For me its sitting on top of hardcore and soil - easy enough to level off. Leaves a nice gap underneath and its pretty sturdy.

I have a Patio next to it, but really didn't want to pave the lot.
 
Rev-O said:
Thanks beejay, do you lay them "every other" on an alternating basis with 2" gaps?

Is it creosoted or pressure treated wood?

Cheers

Ollie
Click to expand...

The shed floorboards run side to side and are nailed to the 2x2's which are pressure treated.
The 2x2's run back to front and are 12" apart. The prevailaing wind flows nicely underneath keeping everything dry. hope that makes sense?
Occasionally I clear leaves /debris from underneath but not very often.
regards.beejay
 
I made a slab base and then used concrete roll top edging laid on its side to make skids to sit the shed on, this allows air to circulate under the shed and dry quicker. Been there 10 years and so far not a problem.
 
beejay said:
Slabs then treated 2x2" strechers is what my 10x8 shed sits on and its still good. I think the shed is about 20 years old now. Helps spread the weight nicely too.
regards,beejay
Click to expand...

This (or very nearly this) is what I did with my first shed... paving slabs well laid, with a 1" in 10ft gradient away from the "front" of the shed. Partial course of bricks laid, upon which 4x4 pressure treated posts were laid horizontally, bolted and levelled (so the top edge of the posts was level) and the shed built (and bolted) on top. I don't live there any more but 15 years later it's the only shed that hasn't been replaced of those that were installed at the same time. For a 6x4 shed, I'd be putting 2 of those in, the length of the shed, for 10x6 three, equally spaced.

Enough clearance under the shed that it can be hosed to remove debris (and cats), enough gradient that any water under there will run away and not pose a problem.
 
hunnymonster said:
Enough clearance under the shed that it can be hosed to remove debris (and cats), enough gradient that any water under there will run away and not pose a problem.
Click to expand...

Hosed?! :shock:

Did the CIA drop off a few suspects for you?
 
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