https://irvingbarberco.com/products/ibc-all-chrome-razor
I have one of these in Cerakoted finish, a brilliant shavette, it takes AC, Injector and Half DE blades.
There are a full range of spare parts available and it shaves like a dream.
As an owner of both razors, the Essence is hands down the much better razor.
Here's my initial review after 1 shave. I usually give a razor several outings before reviewing. It was not necessary with this one, though I probably will go back and update the review once I've used Feather AC blades and injector blades too.
I just had what might have been the best shave of my life with the "Essence" by Tedalus.
For this inaugural shave, I went right to the bottom of the bucket of blade choices. DE, injector, or Feather Artist blades. I went with DE, since I've never had a good shave with a DE in a shavette style razor. Not being completely stupid, I did at least select a vintage Polsilver DE blade for the shave. I also winced when I snapped it in half. I think I've got about 10 left. After initially feeling awkward about the balance and grip, the razor 'encourages' the user to use all one's fingers and also is well thought out for the user who wants to 'choke' up on the blade for detail work. The result is a shave that left me feeling like I was in complete control the entire time.
The cutouts, the jibs, the length, all designed to be intuitive and grippy for the barber. The blade clamping method borrows from both the best of both vintage and modern designs. Superior to either.
The only negative is that you cannot (rather, should not) store the razor with a blade loaded. The edge will touch a scale bolster. That bolster also doubles as a hook point for the stand, so it's a needed part and I guess a safety feature. Call it a reminder to remove the blade after the shave.
Blade loading is more finicky than most shavette designs. The instructions are fairly clear and decently diagramed. The use of magnets and a steel frame as the blade holder really allows the faux "blade" to be as thin as a thick wedge blade straight razor. The channel and pins keep the blade and holder perfectly aligned. If you get a little off track, the razor snaps closed with an authorative snap.
I used this at several angles, including a near 90° going under my nose, and never felt like I needed to push the spine into my face to erg out that last little degree of angle.
This was not an easy feat to pull off, and I can say, without hesitation, that this is what shavettes promise, but fail to deliver: The closest thing to a straight razor shave in both form and function.
If you are a person who likes the Feather AC razors, but wishes they were a little more realistic, more Western in look and feel, and thinner, this is the razor for you.
I'm not blowing smoke up your a** when I say this razor brand will be the Wolfman of shavettes.
So many times I've seen a razor hit the market with a good premise, but fall short on execution and quality. It's usually version two or three before the kinks get worked out.
Here's the changes I'd like to see for version two and three. I'd like to see a bamboo handle and stand version and a red permaloid handle version. Preferably as accessory add ons.
The original handle color choice is very well thought out. The purple/black gives it some interesting color play, and the silver it picks up from the blade reflection gives it a gunmetal sheen. It's going to give photographers a nice canvas for picking up color reflections.
Some other thoughts about the design that haven't been mentioned or or gone into enough detail.
The edge of the DE blade is as close as it is physically possible to get to the end of the shavette. Any shavette. Take your pick. Ditto for the other blades this takes.
The machined finish of the interior of the blade compartment ensures that no tolerances have been polished away. In stark contrast, the logo "Tedalus," is subdued against a bright polished background. Every other surface of the blade is satin finished for a hand ground look and feel. There's enough very slight inconsistencies to the finish that I'm almost positive that each half of the blade is individually mated to the other by sanding the end and the spine. It results in a near seamless look to the razor, futhering the illusion that all three pieces of steel are one. The machine polish on the Chicago style screw bolster is a nice touch as well.
The razor is slender enough that substituting traditional scales would turn it into the "sleeper" razor of the straight razor world.
There isn't a single millimeter on this razor that isn't well thought out from both a visual and purposeful perspective.
Full disclosure: I've said in the past that I won't review a razor that was sent to me for review. This one wasn't. It was a gift, in thanks for my contributions towards this project. Those contributions involved me digging out a rare German shavette, explaining how the halves attached, and suggesting that it might make a good modern design provided the right materials were used. He took it far beyond my initial suggestions and has created a masterpiece of a shavette style razor. Manuel did not ask for a review in exchange for this razor. This review is voluntary and unsolicited. I won't say it unbiased, since I did participate in the design a teeny-tiny bit. I'm super proud of how it turned out. It's everything I've always wanted a shavette to be.
At $345 USD, it's priced high when compared to other shavettes, even "premium" models.
A 333 piece run does mean that this will be a collector's item almost instantly, once the initial run has sold. I wish that he could have afforded to do a 3,333 piece run, because that would have meant the quantity was high enough to throw the stands in at that $345 price. Lower quantity, higher price, that's the way this industry works. As the years go by, I expect the price will drop some as he can afford to do bigger runs. If he can do runs big enough to challenge Feather at it's own price point, he will have secured his place at the head of the premium shavette market.
Who is the audience? Not the average Joe, certainly. Not at this point.
This is a tool, made to the highest of levels. For the barber that shaves customers, this is a God-send, and will pay for itself eventually. This is the Snap-On of shavettes, and for the barber who values a good tool, there's a lot of value in this one. If a customer gets cut, the failure will not be the Essence's fault.
The dedicated straight razor user who cuts no corners and reluctantly switches to shavettes due to air travel will want this in his carry-on bag.
The collector, who wishes for another modern "I have one, why don't you?" trophy for the collection. ...and yes, one of these will be a jewel in the razor crown.
The "backer" who has the money, won't miss it, and likes to help good ideas succeed. Even better, this isn't Kickstarter anymore. The product already exists because one man believed in it. This product can become a sustainable business if others can share Manuel's vision.
Finally, the shavette enthusiast. These odd ducks usually end up gravitating to actual straight razors over time, so the numbers are always in flux. This razor offers them the opportunity to put that day off indefinitely. If you only want to own one shavette, this is the one you want to own. If you can't afford it, buy a secondhand Weck and save up for this one. It's really that good.
Are there enough of those kinds of guys to buy these and make Tedalus a going concern? I hope so. Herr Mikasi deserves to see a return on his years of dedication and effort. There's a huge difference between a labor of love and a cash grab, and these razors fall into the former category.
I know at this point, I sound like a paid shill, but I've been around long enough that most of you know that I won't pull punches if I think a product has any shortcomings. There is so very little room for improvement in this razor's design a mouse could starve on the difference.
Edit TLDR:
Shave was BBS in one pass, even on the neck, one blood spot, no weepers.
Razor: Essence by Tedalus
Blade: vintage Polsilver
Brush: Custom Wolf Whiskers/Shavemac D01
Soap: Saponifico Verisino Felce Aromatica
Aftershave: Derby City Chop Shop Winter Reserve shave tonic
Cologne: Polo Ralph Lauren Double Black
www.theshavingroom.co.uk
