I'm not sure that burnish is the correct term - it is usually described as smoothing using two objects rubbed together - or using a specific burnishing tool to smooth another object. Neil Miller also used it when describing the action of stropping a razor on leather - the leather was effectively burnishing the razor's bevel.I much prefer the word burnish to polish as it implies oh so light polishing, at least in my mind.
Carl is spot on. You don't polish out scratches, you remove metal down to the same depth as the scratch. In most cases with manufactured razors, that means you will be down to base metal because the coating is so thin.
Carl is spot on. You don't polish out scratches, you remove metal down to the same depth as the scratch. In most cases with manufactured razors, that means you will be down to base metal because the coating is so thin.
I use a range of greaseless compounds and other polishing compounds on carbon and stainless steel - including Mazerna. You really need to study what they are intended for before you start to use them as the cutting/polishing elements vary - and what is good for one metal will not apply to another. Then again, there are compounds suitable for plastics and woods alone. The fact is, they are only really effective on wheels at relatively high speeds - apart from plastics which can easily melt if you use high speeds. See what I mean?
Much as I admire Dr Terror's posts, I sometimes think that they are tempting people into doing things with a polishing mop without realising the consequences.
Wet & dry....Thanks for the replies so far guys.
I dont mind going down to the base metal onf them as I was planning on replating. The whole point in trying to remove the scratches is so I dont get lovely plated lines across the top of the razor, hence why I was asking about sandpaper too.
Wet & dry....
I assume you go right through the grades to 2000?
That would be me,after 12 pints,armed with a rotary,let loose on an old Lancia.....Burnishing: "to make smooth and glossy" ... "to improve lustre" ... a word I always used to describe that final phase of automotive valeting where an almost dry, absolutely minimal abrasive pad was buzzed over and over and over an already glorious finish, bringing out sublime lustre.
I'm going to suggest that automotive finishes are significantly thicker than plating. Car paint, depending upon manufacturer, could be anything between 80µ and 150µ (more if resprayed or of a vintage quality). How thick is plating, anyway? You have VERY little to play with before "burning through"; less, I would guess with plating although it will be stronger.
I stick to a DA!...
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