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- Northern Ireland
PhilD said:It's not essential to have a pressure gauge to do the pressure mod. You can instead measure the amount of water dispensed through the OPV return in a given time and refer that to Ulka's pressure/flow graph for the pump model you have to work out its approximate setting.
Easier than I've probably made it sound. I'll let you do the googling but let me know if you can't find the method and I'll see if I can find it.
I believe this is the resource you were mentioning PhilD:PhilD said:It's not essential to have a pressure gauge to do the pressure mod. You can instead measure the amount of water dispensed through the OPV return in a given time and refer that to Ulka's pressure/flow graph for the pump model you have to work out its approximate setting.
Hedomystico said:I believe this is the resource you were mentioning PhilD:
http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/opv-over-pressure-valve
Neill said:It is easier and I did this initially but it was 1-2 bar out when I actually used a meter.
PhilD said:Hedomystico said:I believe this is the resource you were mentioning PhilD:
http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/opv-over-pressure-valve
Thanks, Hedo, that's the right graph for most Ulkas, but I couldn't see the method mentioned? Maybe I missed it. Basically though, it's just run the pump into a blank backflush basket so all the water is forced through the OPV, and then work out the flowrate going back through the return tube.
Neill said:It is easier and I did this initially but it was 1-2 bar out when I actually used a meter.
Out of interest Neill, was the true pressure higher or lower (assuming the gauge was right..)
Neill said:As for removing the spout, slide a screw driver through the hole from one spout to the the other and use it as a lever to turn the spouts. Also, I held the spouts in boiling water to get them to expand a little and allow me to turn them.
PhilD said:Thanks, Hedo, that's the right graph for most Ulkas, but I couldn't see the method mentioned? Maybe I missed it. Basically though, it's just run the pump into a blank backflush basket so all the water is forced through the OPV, and then work out the flowrate going back through the return tube.
Hedomystico said:Another question for the more knowledgeable espresso enthusiasts.
I am currently using a Hario Mini Slim, which I realise is less-than-ideal in terms of grind consistency but a proper entry level grinder (Iberital MC2 comes to mind) is out of my budget at the moment.
Would you recommend still doing the OPV mod? My hesitation stems from the fact that I'm afraid that the reduced pressure combined with the slightly inconsistent grounds of my Hario Slim may yield worse results than the coffee I'm currently enjoying. The reasoning (guessing?) behind this being that a higher brewing pressure would be more forgiving of grind inconsistencies.
Neill said:I don't think there's a disadvantage if you are using a grinder. The reason the pressure was upped was to allow for use of capsules and the pressurised baskets. But, it's not an essential mod and if your worried about it don't do it as its wont make a massive difference.
Oh, and it's worth checking out the graef cm81. It's seems to be quite popular at present for a first grinder.
PhilD said:The pressure mod should if anything make the machine more forgiving of uneven grind I think.
Rancilio Silvia got a reputation for being difficult to grind for due to the high pressure setting on the V1 and V2. With high pressure, you have to grind finer to get the same flow through the puck, which is something that cheaper grinders struggle with.
By reducing the pressure and being able to grind coarser overall, you are taking the grinder back towards its comfort zone. Well that's how I'd see it anyway...
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