@Digimonkey incredible. My younger brother is out in Thailand at the moment and is doing a lot of stuff similar, some without prior planning as per your stay in a cave with the Sahdus. I'm deeply jealous of your experiences. Keep them coming!
That's real good H. - where is the Troodos trail? Very good. Impressive old wood. Yours - I.Some nature shots this week from me. Troodos trail.
A short walk in the Himalayas - day 5 - how to get lost, then un-lost and then spent the night out.
So we leave Pulga in good spirits - initially it was a beautiful morning but the weather started to set in and it rained in a truly biblical fashion. We knew that we had to find a fork in the path about 5 miles upstream and take a right. We missed it - for reasons that will be illustrated shortly. We kept going for too long on the wrong side of the river - I think both of us knew something was wrong but neither of us voiced it. Our hoods were up and the path was getting steeper and steeper - so you tend just to get your head down and get on with it. The trail we were following was at first a shepherd's track then it narrowed further. The problem was that we were in dense scrub and had no view of our surroundings greater than a couple of feet. Then we got to a clearing and our mistake was confirmed.
View attachment 28525
This is what separated us from the path we ought to have been on -
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So - no way but back the 4 or 5 miles we had come up the wrong side of the gorge. Granted it was downhill this time but small recompense.
View attachment 28528
This is why we missed the fork in the path - an illegal logging camp that had been established right at the junction, obliterating something that had before been obvious. Even having worked this out it took us half an hour to pick up the path in the right direction. We worked our way around the perimeter in widening circles until we found it.
Things were getting a bit serious by now - due to our 10 mile detour there was no way we were going to get to Khirganga that day. It was another 10 miles - all of which were uphill. We were wet, cold and hadn't eaten properly. We had no sleeping bags as we had planned on moving between mountain huts where you could hire bedding. We had my trusty Afghan shawl - never leave home without one - and a silver survival blanket. The sort they give to marathon runners when they finish. The light was starting to disappear quickly - in steep sided valleys there is no gradual decline - once it drops below the ridge it's dark suddenly. We took stock and decided to walk on for another half an hour - at least we would warm up a bit. There was some trail food left and we wouldn't run short of water so it looked like a miserable night but we weren't going to die. What really concerned us was the cold - it was September and we were at 13,000 feet. We plodded on until the light was about to vanish and........
For the next bit of the narrative to make sense - you need to know what a sahdu is, I'm sure most of you do but in case you don't. A sahdu is an itinerant Hindu holy man - I think Jains can qualify under the description too. An ascetic - a mendicant. They renounce worldly goods and survive on charity and generally do a lot of pilgrimages. Mostly in their pants. It's a bit weird if you are used to European notions of religious expression - it not unusual for a bank manager or a civil servant to have a 'spiritual' gap year. Universally in my experience - they are truly prodigious users of cannabis. This guy is typical of the genre - check his eyeballs! Piss holes in the snow.
View attachment 28530
So - at the last gasp we decide we at least had to find some level ground to kip on. We noticed a well worn path leading off the main trail and without speaking we follow it. It led to a cave! Providence. With head torches we gathered wood - in plentiful supply at least and got a fire going.
View attachment 28531
We were wondering what to do - should we stay up in shifts to keep the fire going? It was getting really cold by now when three figures emerge out the night. Sahdus. It put the shits up us both - they were bare foot - we didn't hear them coming. A pirate captain on the Spanish Main would have said - I'm sorry you guys are a bit wild looking for even my crew. We had no common language but by hand gestures it was understood - can we join you around your fire? Sure - no problem. So me and my mate are close to physical collapse at this point and again through hand gestures - they say - you go to sleep and we will keep the fire going. Don't worry. Callum and I took one look at each other - and without speaking - knew we trusted them. We took our boots off, put the foil blanket on the ground and the Afghan shawl over us and slept hugging each other to preserve as much body heat as we could. It wasn't the most comfortable night I have ever spent but we didn't die. They kept their word and the fire was still going at first light. We were gently nudged awake at dawn and offered a chillum - an Indian hash pipe - which we declined without causing offense. We still had to walk uphill for 10 miles. A memorable night. Trust people as you find them.
View attachment 28532
Our cave seen in daylight the next morning.
Thank you for reading and looking. Last post tomorrow - we finally make it to Khirganga.
Yours - I.
@Barry Giddens @Rufus @William Dobson @Benz3ne @udrako @PickledNorthern @AnthH @Blademonkey @patw @Helveticum
A short walk in the Himalayas - day 6 - journey's end.
None the worse off for a night in the cave - a bit stiff perhaps and frankly starving - it was a spectacularly beautiful morning that lifted our spirits. We gained our destination Khirganga without further incident. First thing, get somewhere to stay. Indoors - with bedding. A mattress of some form would be a boon but bedding was more important. We got the former and not the latter. Mind you a wooden floor after mud was a step up in the comfort stakes. Bottom right - that'll do us a treat!
View attachment 28574
Next thing - food. Let's check out the options - ah, did I say options plural? Option singular -
View attachment 28575
No problem - I like lentil dhal and fresh roti. Washed down with gallons of chai. Just as well - that's all you could have.
View attachment 28576
I love being in the mountains - I'm never happier. The sky is just a better shade of blue - deeper. No light pollution I guess - the stars were unbelievable at night for the same reason. To sit and watch the light change over the higher peaks - the clouds moving and shifting. I could do that all day - every day - without getting bored.
View attachment 28577
Different moods -
View attachment 28578
So - during our journey, Callum and I did actually recover enough of our drunken planning conversation to remember why we were here. We had read about the hot springs in Khirganga - sitting soaking in perfect temperature bath water surrounded by awesome scenery.
View attachment 28579
Job done. It was all worth it. A trip that paid us back doubly for everything it took out of us.
So - that's it. I was going to do a post of portraits from this trip - but I'm sick of looking at my own pictures to be honest. Maybe some time in the future. Thank you for reading, looking and putting up with my indulgence. I hope you you enjoyed - at least - some of it - yours - I.
@Barry Giddens @Benz3ne @udrako @PickledNorthern @Blademonkey @Helveticum @AnthH @Number Six @patw
A short walk in the Himalayas - day 6 - journey's end.
None the worse off for a night in the cave - a bit stiff perhaps and frankly starving - it was a spectacularly beautiful morning that lifted our spirits. We gained our destination Khirganga without further incident. First thing, get somewhere to stay. Indoors - with bedding. A mattress of some form would be a boon but bedding was more important. We got the former and not the latter. Mind you a wooden floor after mud was a step up in the comfort stakes. Bottom right - that'll do us a treat!
View attachment 28574
Next thing - food. Let's check out the options - ah, did I say options plural? Option singular -
View attachment 28575
No problem - I like lentil dhal and fresh roti. Washed down with gallons of chai. Just as well - that's all you could have.
View attachment 28576
I love being in the mountains - I'm never happier. The sky is just a better shade of blue - deeper. No light pollution I guess - the stars were unbelievable at night for the same reason. To sit and watch the light change over the higher peaks - the clouds moving and shifting. I could do that all day - every day - without getting bored.
View attachment 28577
Different moods -
View attachment 28578
So - during our journey, Callum and I did actually recover enough of our drunken planning conversation to remember why we were here. We had read about the hot springs in Khirganga - sitting soaking in perfect temperature bath water surrounded by awesome scenery.
View attachment 28579
Job done. It was all worth it. A trip that paid us back doubly for everything it took out of us.
So - that's it. I was going to do a post of portraits from this trip - but I'm sick of looking at my own pictures to be honest. Maybe some time in the future. Thank you for reading, looking and putting up with my indulgence. I hope you enjoyed - at least - some of it - yours - I.
@Barry Giddens @Benz3ne @udrako @PickledNorthern @Blademonkey @Helveticum @AnthH @Number Six @patw
Superb travelogue Iain. Thank you for indulging us!A short walk in the Himalayas - day 6 - journey's end.
None the worse off for a night in the cave - a bit stiff perhaps and frankly starving - it was a spectacularly beautiful morning that lifted our spirits. We gained our destination Khirganga without further incident. First thing, get somewhere to stay. Indoors - with bedding. A mattress of some form would be a boon but bedding was more important. We got the former and not the latter. Mind you a wooden floor after mud was a step up in the comfort stakes. Bottom right - that'll do us a treat!
View attachment 28574
Next thing - food. Let's check out the options - ah, did I say options plural? Option singular -
View attachment 28575
No problem - I like lentil dhal and fresh roti. Washed down with gallons of chai. Just as well - that's all you could have.
View attachment 28576
I love being in the mountains - I'm never happier. The sky is just a better shade of blue - deeper. No light pollution I guess - the stars were unbelievable at night for the same reason. To sit and watch the light change over the higher peaks - the clouds moving and shifting. I could do that all day - every day - without getting bored.
View attachment 28577
Different moods -
View attachment 28578
So - during our journey, Callum and I did actually recover enough of our drunken planning conversation to remember why we were here. We had read about the hot springs in Khirganga - sitting soaking in perfect temperature bath water surrounded by awesome scenery.
View attachment 28579
Job done. It was all worth it. A trip that paid us back doubly for everything it took out of us.
So - that's it. I was going to do a post of portraits from this trip - but I'm sick of looking at my own pictures to be honest. Maybe some time in the future. Thank you for reading, looking and putting up with my indulgence. I hope you enjoyed - at least - some of it - yours - I.
@Barry Giddens @Benz3ne @udrako @PickledNorthern @Blademonkey @Helveticum @AnthH @Number Six @patw
@Digimonkey , Firstly, please accept my humble apologies for being so late to the party. I have been "offline" virtually all week.
That's another story but may I take this opportunity to thank you for the amazing images and words you have shared with all of us.
Keep up the good work mate and take care.
Wayne.
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