Hi - honing need be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be! Let's start by keeping it simple and identifying what you want to do:
1. Lots of edge damage/nicks/reset frowns or smiles? Then you will need to commence with a coarse stone, below 1000 grit if you want speed, 1000 will do if you have some time. Man-made coarse stones sub 1000 grit tend to need an awful lot of lapping because they are so soft, so I would recommend a diamond plate, such as the DMT 325 grit. It's about £50 from various places. Get the continuous grit one, not the one with round dots on it. Break it in by passing a flat piece of steel (old knife, screwdriver shaft, etc) for a hundred or so laps - don't forget to add water as you go. This will "calm" the plate down by removing diamond high-spots, etc.
2. Some edge damage, nicks etc - start with a 1000 grit stone. The King 1000/6000 is excellent - it's fast (faster than the Norton equivalent), hard enough to last quite a few sessions without needing relapping, easy to lap and cheap. Its cuts really fast with a thick, creamy slurry produced by the artificial nagura. Finish off by washing off the slurry and using plain water. Beats a coticule into a cocked-hat for bevel setting.
3. No damage, just bevel resetting: King 1000 (cheap), Naniwa SS 1000 (reasonable price, softer than the King, needs much more lapping). A lot of people would start with a 600 grit hone - I have omitted these for two reasons: (a) I'm assuming there is no minor edge damage, and (b) both the above hones are really fast. The King is the fastest. Some people recommend the Norton 220/1000 - I don't. The 220 side is next to useless, and the 1000 side is quite slow.
4. Bevel is Ok, but some refinement needed: Shapton 2000 GS (expensive) Naniwa 3000 SS (reasonable price, but soft so needs more lapping than others), Naniwa 5000 SS (reasonable price, but soft so needs more lapping than others), Belgian Blue (slow but a lovely stone and good polisher - some people shave of the faster, finer ones), Soft Coticule with slurry (choose a soft coticule for fast cutting - the soft type do not make good finishing hones).
5. More levels of refinement: King 6000 (fast, hard, good with slurry and with water, more like 5000 in some examples), Naniwa 5000 SS (reasonable price, but soft so needs more lapping than others).
6. Shave-time: as Arrowhead says, a 6000 followed by a (pasted) strop can take a razor to shave-ready, depending on how you like your shave. A welsh dragon tongues hone is also good. I personally would go to at least 8000/10,000 grit plus a pasted strop - the Naniwa SS 8000 is fairly reasonably priced, the MST and most new thuringian hones are great (start with a creamy slurry and finish with water) and a medium to hard yellow coticule is very good indeed. The harder the coticule, the better finishing or polishing hone it will be. It can still be used with slurry.
7. A bit more refinement: Naniwa 10,000 GS (see other naniwa notes), Naniwa 12,000 SS (see other naniwa notes), chinese 12000 (cheap but slow - improves edge left by some coticules), Shapton 16,000 GS (excellent, but pricey), hard yellow coticule.
8. The last word (?): Shapton 30,000, charnley forest hone, vintage escher-type thuringian, exotic japanese naturals. All mega-money, though!
For what you propose to do, the King combo is ideal, It is a bit of a jump from one side to the other, but by using the 1000 side with a heavy slurry and finishing with water and a lot more light laps, then repeating the process on the 6000 side and using a pasted strop it might just get you there. I would add an intermdiate stone, 2000, 3000, or 4000 grit, and a finisher of about 8000/10,000 grit, then use a pasted strop.
Some last observations:
make sure the hone is perfectly lapped. So many problems are caused by badly maintained hones;
develop a light touch - if you have trouble, use lather - it "cushions" the blade a bit and will make your finishing laps lighter,
diamond paste is OK, but can be harsh - especially at 0.25 micron level - best bet is to always finish on chrome oxide after diamond, even though CrO2 is rated at 0.5 micron (and its cheaper!);
if you really dont intend doing any bevel-setting or edge maintenance, just get a small barber hone, a thuringian, a naniwa 10,000 or 12,000 or a medium to hard coticule (quite expensive at the moment), or try a chinese 12000 - it is probably less than 1000 grit, but will keep an already good edge in great condition and a lot of people say it does away with the need for pasting,
the one-hone-coticule idea works but is hellishly slow and depends on the coticule - I've had half a dozen, and all are different. I can't wait an hour+ to hone one razor - I want to do 3 - 5 in that space of time, but that's just me - I do it for a living.
If you want any other help or advice, ask here or pm me and I'll do my best.
Regards,
Neil.