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Very helpful, thank you, loupe ordered , I will leave it alone until then.
What do I need to lap/check the stone is flat? The water pooled across the complete blade edge.
I think you probably just need to follow up with paste. Remember, with any paste, less is more in terms of what you put on the strop. If you use balsa make sure you lap it really well before applying paste.Very helpful, thank you, loupe ordered , I will leave it alone until then.
What do I need to lap/check the stone is flat? The water pooled across the complete blade edge.
That YouTube clip, that's more or less the way I did it, I also tried Lynn Abrams circles.
For checking the flatness, one of these or similar: https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-bevelled-straight-edges-ax20469
For initially flattening a stone I like a wide truly flat area. I use one of these:
Veritas Glass Lapping Plate
The Veritas lapping plate is made from safety glass. It is 215 x 355 x 6.3mm (8-1/2" x 14" x 1/4") and is guaranteed to be flat.www.axminstertools.com
With silicon carbide wet n dry on top. I wet both sides and let the water adhere it to the glass.
Hermes WS Flex 16 Wet & Dry Abrasive Sheets (Pkt 10)
Hermes WSFLEX 16 waterproof silicon carbide resin bonded paper, more commonly known as wet & dry is used primarily for car body work. Finer grades can be successfully used for final preparation and between coats of varnish/paints and is pre-eminent in...www.axminstertools.com
I use 400 - 600. With a high grit stone like your 16k I might go higher afterwards but I haven't found it makes much difference with synthetic stones. On natural slates I always lap with a higher grit after flattening.
When I hone I use a diamond plate, raise a slurry, as per the video I shared above. This extends the usefulness of the stone and speeds up the honing. You kind of get two stones for the price of one. With slurry the stone grinds faster and without it polishes the edge better, like a two stone progression. It also means that you are flattening the stone each time and removing swarf from the surface. To be fair this isn't so much of a problem with Shaptons in comparison with the Naniwa but you still get a swarf build up which will cause you problems.
I used to use a DMT plate, but have now found Atoma better :
Atoma Diamond Stone #400 Economy diamond sharpening stone
Type: diamond sharpening stone Grain size: #400 Measurements: 21 x 7.5 cmwww.knivesandtools.co.uk
Is the feeling: not sharp as in tugging or not sharp as in not cutting close enough? Blade: wedge or full hollow? You: daily straight razor shaver or just taking it for the occasional spin?
I have only tried DMT and Atoma. The DMT plates are heavier and wore down quickly. Nice to use as hones though. The Atomas have been better for lapping. Atomas seem to be the ones most people use.@seveneighth I've also found some cheaper #400 and #1000 diamond plates would these work to lap the 16k? I've ordered a veritus glass plate and carbide wet n dry that was sooooo cheap.
Thank you
If it IS just surface level rust then you should be able to polish out on the 16k. If the metal is compromised then you will need to hone at a lower grit. The 8k might be enough to deal with that. If the edge is compromised, you might need a honer to reset the bevel. Is the discolouration just on the very edge? Does it cover the whole bevel? Does it extend behind the bevel, up the face?Now it's funny you ask that as a question, my first straight was the wapi, and I always felt it had no weight in it, and it felt tugy.
So I got 4 wedges 6/8 and 7/8 Joseph Rodgers X2 and a gates (this thing holds an amazing edge) Neil sharpened it about a year before we lost him, and it's just got too bad to shave with. Im trying on the wapi so I don't muck up the others.
Thanks again to seven eighth for the help, looking under the loupe I'm seeing carbon/looks like rust on the edge of the blade.
I have a 8k that's far too course too use before the 16k I would have thought
Thank you so much for all this wealth of info, I'd been looking for some of this stuff but never managed to find it.
I only know these things because they aren't clear on the forums / youtube and I ended up learning the hard way by making every mistake under the sun.
As @Bazz says above - there are lots of ways to skin this cat. Your mileage may vary.
I have a real good supplier for scratch son's car that I've just rebuiltI have used wet n dry 320 on glass for lapping and it works and it is cheap (though only lapped three hones, two that I never use and one that is my base for the 3M film I use honing)
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