Help me out of my shaving rut

W

WalkingBootWeather

Messages
4
Hello everyone,

I'm a long time lurker and wet shave convert that had become a bit stuck in my ways. Looking for advice and inspiration to make shaving more enjoyable.

In my youth a toyed with a number of electric, cartridge and disposable razors, but found shaving to be a bit of a chore, never really getting great results and feeling bad about the cost and waste of the whole thing. About 15 years ago I got an Edwin Jagger DE89, which seems to be the implement recommended to many new would be wet shavers. Together with a modest badger brush and either Proraso soap or Taylors cream I was able to get satisfactory daily shaves. I tried a number of different blades before settling on Astra SP.

After 5 or 6 years the thread of the DE89 started to strip and I wanted something with a bit more weight and better grip so moved to an Ikon with a Bulldog handle. This was a bit more aggressive, but I'd moved to shaving only every 2 or 3 days so worked well.

These days I tend to only shave 2 or 3 times per week but wanted to improve the experience so have bought a Pearl Flexi razor, an Omega Roma Colosseo brush and some new blades and soaps which I am just experimenting with.

Nobody has ever really shown me how to shave and while I'm competent, I feel like I still have lots to learn. For years I was never creating a good lather or applying soap properly and I'm sure there are other things I could improve on.
 
Out of curiosity, which iKon head was it you bought?

It does seem like you could stand to experiment e.g. with your lather and perhaps with shims a little as well.

Is there anything in particular you would like to improve on your experience?
From your post, it would appear there's something, I'm just not seeing if there's a specific aspect you would like to improve or, perhaps, vary.
 
I hear you ... my Dad has a beard. I had to figure it out myself and did kinda make a bit of a mess of it, but coming here a good decade ago and I started to focus much more on getting the basics of lather and beard map correct.

First, lather. You need a good soap to start with and different folks like different soaps. My preference is for hard soaps and whatever brush I'm using, I'll make 80-100 swirls with a soaked, but wrung out brush. I think the phrase proto-lather built on the soap is the right way to describe it. I face-lather and so it's the residual water on my face from a simple pre-wash and then spash just before lathering.

Maybe take up face-lathering ... and try the wrung out brush when loading. It seems counter-productive, but I can vouch for the method.

Second, beard map. I can get a fully satisfactory shave off one pass. Getting there is so much easier with a sharp blade and an efficient razor, but just a little more focus on how effective each stroke is as well as an assessment after the first pass to see which bits you'd like to go over again will go a long way to building up that map in your head. Once you've got it ... you've got it.

I'd also say to pay very clear attention to effectiveness of the razor with regard to angle. Some razors need a specific angle and some that you might think are just mild come alive at the correct angle - I'm thinking particularly of the R89 razor there, which it right up there as one of my top 3. Lightness of touch, too.

Technique, as well. Again, having had no practical assistance I had a notion of scrape, scrape, scrape in small inch long sorta swipes, but I have found that this does not quite me at all. What I like to do is long overlapping strokes, probably more like straight edge shavers. I'd taken that method to cartridge shaving as well as double edge and single edge. Suits me well.

Cold water shaving? Not for me but some folks do absolutely swear by it. Actually, now I've written that, I think I'll give it another concerted effort.

I've mentioned a few things there which I hope will help ... you already have what reads as a competent set of razors. Blades are much of a muchness, to be absolutely frank. If they're fit for purpose they'll shave you and a bad shave is far more likely your frame of mind, rushing or having a poor lather.

On that last point, I'd say to look at your soaps and creams, and if there's something out there you've not tried ... for example, a big name hard soap, then buy one in. Just don't buy Trumpers hard soaps. Likewise, if you've not tried a cream, do so ... haha, Trumpers do make really good creams.

Hopefully, some of this will dig you out of your rut.

Let us know how you get on ...
 
slapo said:
Out of curiosity, which iKon head was it you bought?

It does seem like you could stand to experiment e.g. with your lather and perhaps with shims a little as well.

Is there anything in particular you would like to improve on your experience?
From your post, it would appear there's something, I'm just not seeing if there's a specific aspect you would like to improve or, perhaps, vary.
Click to expand...
Good question, I'm not sure to be honest. It is a closed comb design so perhaps a TEK or B1? I've had it for at least 5 years and overall it is pretty decent when I shave every 3rd day. It is pretty aggressive and my skin can get irritated if I use it for 4 or more times in a week. After a week without shaving I have quite a heavy growth and both the EJ89 and Ikon struggle a bit so I need multiple passes to get a clean shave.

I thought that an adjustable razor might be the answer so that I could dial it down for regular use, or up to deal with a heavier growth? It is early days but I'm liking the Pearl except for awkward areas under the nose and around the mouth which seem harder to access due to the size of the head.

Part of my problem is that I don't know what I don't know. Men tend to lock themselves away in their bathrooms and try to work things out for themselves. We don't tend to watch or critique each other. I think my equipment is up to the job, but am not certain I am using it entirely correctly.

I don't do much it the way of prep, just wash my face, apply a bit of lather, do the deed, take a shower, then generally apply some nivea post shave balm. I did try showering before shaving, but that tended to steam up the mirrors and made it hard to see what I was doing.
 
pjgh said:
I hear you ... my Dad has a beard. I had to figure it out myself and did kinda make a bit of a mess of it, but coming here a good decade ago and I started to focus much more on getting the basics of lather and beard map correct.

First, lather. You need a good soap to start with and different folks like different soaps. My preference is for hard soaps and whatever brush I'm using, I'll make 80-100 swirls with a soaked, but wrung out brush. I think the phrase proto-lather built on the soap is the right way to describe it. I face-lather and so it's the residual water on my face from a simple pre-wash and then spash just before lathering.

Maybe take up face-lathering ... and try the wrung out brush when loading. It seems counter-productive, but I can vouch for the method.

Second, beard map. I can get a fully satisfactory shave off one pass. Getting there is so much easier with a sharp blade and an efficient razor, but just a little more focus on how effective each stroke is as well as an assessment after the first pass to see which bits you'd like to go over again will go a long way to building up that map in your head. Once you've got it ... you've got it.

I'd also say to pay very clear attention to effectiveness of the razor with regard to angle. Some razors need a specific angle and some that you might think are just mild come alive at the correct angle - I'm thinking particularly of the R89 razor there, which it right up there as one of my top 3. Lightness of touch, too.

Technique, as well. Again, having had no practical assistance I had a notion of scrape, scrape, scrape in small inch long sorta swipes, but I have found that this does not quite me at all. What I like to do is long overlapping strokes, probably more like straight edge shavers. I'd taken that method to cartridge shaving as well as double edge and single edge. Suits me well.

Cold water shaving? Not for me but some folks do absolutely swear by it. Actually, now I've written that, I think I'll give it another concerted effort.

I've mentioned a few things there which I hope will help ... you already have what reads as a competent set of razors. Blades are much of a muchness, to be absolutely frank. If they're fit for purpose they'll shave you and a bad shave is far more likely your frame of mind, rushing or having a poor lather.

On that last point, I'd say to look at your soaps and creams, and if there's something out there you've not tried ... for example, a big name hard soap, then buy one in. Just don't buy Trumpers hard soaps. Likewise, if you've not tried a cream, do so ... haha, Trumpers do make really good creams.

Hopefully, some of this will dig you out of your rut.

Let us know how you get on ...
Click to expand...
Thanks for your suggestions @pjgh . I hadn't been doing a good job at creating a good lather. I was using too much water and not working hard enough to agitate it. I had tried to face lather, hand lather and create a lather in the soap bowl, but all were pretty thin. I have watched some of the videos posted here and realise my technique was poor so I have ordered an appropriately sized dish to try.

I've not tried cold water shaving but will give that a go.

I had found creams easier to use than soaps but will continue to experiment. I am finding that it is necessary to put in a bit of effort to get good results but I'm up for that.
 
If I may offer some advice. I can't see that you were doing much wrong in the first place. The Jagger De89 is a fine bit of kit. It is very tempting to want to make a total change when upgrading but then you have to restart your technique from scratch.

File your Ikon and Pearl away for the time being and get yourself another Jagger 89 or the Muhle 89 or Merkur 34 (2 piece). All good work horses for a reasonable price.

A Omega 10049 brush for a few £s is a great buy.

Connaughtshaving.com have two sample blade packs that are worth getting. The Gillette collection and the Lord collection. These will give you plenty of variety to try out. There are some real gems in there.

Proraso soap/cream is absolutely fine. Whip it up into a good lather, spread that on your face and whip it up a bit more. Then squeeze the brush to get out all the good stuff that is hiding in there, the best foam is inside the bristles, don't waste it.

Plenty of hot water as well. For your face, for your brush and for your razor. Keep everything rinsed and clean.

Use a light touch with the Razor. Don't apply to much pressure, let the blade do the work.

If you are going to shave twice (WTG AND ATG) then rinse everything with warm water and start again. Flip the blade over, fresh lather, etc.

Most of all, take your time. It is not a race. Take each stroke of the Razor slowly and carefully. Look at were you are shaving. Do you have a magnifyed mirror?? Listen. you should be able to hear that the blade is doing it's job.

Good luck.
 
I was the same as you. It was just before and during COVID I ventured back on here and started to try other things. I had experimented to open comb razors, and the Merkur Slant plus a few vintage razors. I've just settled with the Merkur 34, plus a stainless steel razor (Executive shaving one), sold the rest, almost.

I ventured from using creams to soaps (i had previously used proraso). I found the soaps difficult to lather, at least get a decent lather like I'd had with creams. Someone on here suggested a synthetic brush, which made a huge difference. Now I mostly use soaps, but still stuggle to get a decent lather if using a badger brush, I just use that when I go back to a cream.
 
Appreciate the support and advice chaps. Glad I'm not the only one who occasionally struggles to get good results. I have acquired some new kit (synthetic brush, blades, bowl, soap and balm) so will take a couple of weeks experimenting.

There was nothing much wrong with the Jagger DE89 and I can absolutely see why it is recommended for newbies, but it was a bit on the mild side, lacked some weight and disappointingly the thread on the head stripped after a few years. I understand that the head is made of zinc alloy and this is quite a common problem, I'm happy to buy another razor but would sooner pay more and get something longer lasting and better quality.

I don't imagine I'm particularly unusual but I find I need to make 3 passes (with, against and across the grain) to get a smooth result. If I do that every day I tend to get some irritation hence I generally only shave every 2/3 days or sometimes less often, but I guess this isn't the place to boast about designer stubble:).
 
The newer Muhle heads have a brass threaded centre post and I believe a brass insert in the top of the handle. Unsure if Edwin Jagger have followed suit on that initiative. Same razor design. FWIW, after trying literally everything out there from the last 100 years (I am really not kidding), I've settled on the DE89/R89 as one of my staple razors. Anyway, there's a world of other stuff to try out before buying another 89.
 
WalkingBootWeather said:
Appreciate the support and advice chaps. Glad I'm not the only one who occasionally struggles to get good results. I have acquired some new kit (synthetic brush, blades, bowl, soap and balm) so will take a couple of weeks experimenting.

There was nothing much wrong with the Jagger DE89 and I can absolutely see why it is recommended for newbies, but it was a bit on the mild side, lacked some weight and disappointingly the thread on the head stripped after a few years. I understand that the head is made of zinc alloy and this is quite a common problem, I'm happy to buy another razor but would sooner pay more and get something longer lasting and better quality.

I don't imagine I'm particularly unusual but I find I need to make 3 passes (with, against and across the grain) to get a smooth result. If I do that every day I tend to get some irritation hence I generally only shave every 2/3 days or sometimes less often, but I guess this isn't the place to boast about designer stubble:).
Click to expand...
There are many people who can't go to BBS daily because their skin doesn't recover or they don't have enough stubble to be worth it the next morning.
I find that for daily shaves, two pass shaves are pretty doable (XTG followed by ATG) to get a very close shave, and, should you wish to do so, you could also alternate closer and comfortable shaves, or/and do something like shave every 36 hours instead of 24 or 48.

IMO, you shouldn't really particularly struggle with a DR89 on just a week of growth. There's a technique to it, and you'd want to tune your lather as well. You don't want it dense, but closer to fluffy yet slick, because you'll want good flow-through. If you don't knock most of the growth down in the first pass, it might be worth experimenting with your technique. As long as a razor has half-decent flow-through, if you adopt a somewhat plough-like technique where you won't lift the razor off the skin unless you have to, and progress in a sort of step forward, back off just a little and take another step forward. That way, the blade it bound to get back onto skin level in case it ends up sliding of top of too much hair.

If you feel that the razor's struggling to move through stubble, there's a pretty good chance you need to improve your prep, because your hair likely requires more hydration. It could also be that you'd benefit from a fresh blade, a shallower blade angle or using a variant of the Gillette slide (there were at least two).

If you'd want a new razor, I think you would benefit from a mild open comb razor.
 
Thought it polite to check back in with progress. Really appreciate the comments and advice which has led to me changing my technique (and buying new stuff). The biggest improvement has come from learning to make and apply lather better. Best results have come from using a large synthetic brush and face lathering. Alternating between razors, blades and soaps has made each experience interesting.

I have tried using an open comb razor (an adjustable Pearl Flexi) which looks great and has performed well, but am not yet convinced it has given better results than the safety bar equivalent..

One development is that my son, just turned 20, has shown an interest so I have gifted him some kit and invited him to try some of my kit. Early days but he seems to be getting on well so far.

So, wanted to thank you for helping me out of my rut, and indirectly influencing a new convert.
 
Glad to hear you are back enjoying your shaves. I've been at de shaving 48years. Only had a Gillette slim adjustable setting 7, Kent silvertip and either cella red or tobs sandalwood. Shaving became a chore. To get me out of the rut and enjoying shaving again. I bought some new kit and started rotating my items. I also found some YouTube videos handy. Executive shaving and geofatboy had a few good ones. I now also own artist club and gem razors. My adjustable razors I actually adjust between passes instead of finding a setting and sticking to it. Just a few ideas you may find useful.
 
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