Guide to Azmüsebat

[pjgh]

Azmüsebat ... you know, the parent company behind Derby.

Global offerings appear to be the well-known Derby Extra, the also well known Derby Premium and the more esoteric Derby Usta ... but let's hear from Derby themselves as to the differences:

While all three blades are made by Derby, there are notable differences in terms of sharpness, coatings, and performance:​

​

Derby Extra: This is the most gentle option, offering a milder shave, which makes it great for beginners or those with sensitive skin. It’s less sharp compared to the other two, which helps reduce the risk of irritation.​

​

Derby Usta: The Usta blades strike a balance between the Extra and the Premium. They are sharper than the Derby Extra, providing a closer shave while still being smooth and forgiving. It’s a good mid-range choice for those looking for something sharper without being overly aggressive.​

​

Derby Premium: This is the sharpest of the three and comes with a higher-grade coating, including platinum, which enhances both sharpness and durability. It’s ideal for those with thicker or coarser hair and is often preferred by experienced shavers.​

Source: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/difference-in-derby-blades.658120/

So, three grades ...



Important to note that the Derby Premium displays the words "Swedish Steel" upon the face of the tuck and this will be the higher-quality Sandvik Steel. Whether the other blades are not of this grade is questionable but they do make a deal of this with the Premium ... and just one of their private label blades.

To my face, there are indeed differences and my interpretation is as follows:

Derby Extra - Baseline … more smooth than sharp in character and a good shave
Derby USTA - Mid-range … definitely sharp over smooth and potentially delivers a closer shave
Derby Premium - Best of both? ... grade of metal delivering both a sharp, close shave with some refinement

Azmüsebat also make a host of private label blades which for the purposes of this guide I have divided into two categories - one group more akin to the Usta and the other group more akin to the Premium. None of these are like the Derby Extra in character and I suppose we there can consider the Derby Extra to be Azmüsebat's flagship blade (yes, rather than the Premium).

First group ... more like the Derby Usta:



All three of these give really nice shaves and actually none of them are exactly like the Usta but they are all certainly sharper than the Derby Extra but all without the refinement of the Derby Premium. The Bluebird Hi-Stainless gave what I think was the sharpest of these three but left some post-shave irritation, certainly on the first and second shaves ... while the Lion Super Stainless was the pick of this bunch for my preferences delivering a sharp and close shave that put me much in mind of the good SuperMax Super Stainless blades. I'd pick the Lion Super Stainless above the Derby Usta.

Second group ... more like the Derby Premium:



Again, all three gave lovely shaves and my reason for grouping them as akin to the Derby Premium is because they deliver what I'd say is a more refined shaver. Certainly the Parker Premium Platinum is (in my mind) absolutely the Derby Premium specification and right down to the statement of Swedish steel (on Parker's website although not on the pack) while I'd say the standout from this group is the Diamonds Pro Excell which I would pick above the Derby Premium as I thought it delivered a far better balance between sharpness and smoothness ... on my face, anyway. I've put the Lamix Platinum Plus Pro 5 into this group as well although I think this is a much older blade (and discontinued) ... I certainly think it's a premium-class blade.

Final thought is a summary chart from the sharpness testing undertaken on B&B which you can read all about the methodology here: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/blade-sharpness-research-project.652790/ and even lookup these blades for some further detail and discussion within the thread.

 

[pjgh]

Not only, but also ...

Much discussion (and even some contoversy) around these blades but I'm going to show them as part of this guide to Azmüsebat because Azmüsebat are the only razor blade maker in Türkiye and these blades are all made in Türkiye ... make of that what you will.



Considered pretty rough and presumably pre-2016 Derby actually, I found them to be pretty agreeable and almost akin to the Vidyut/SuperMax Economy Stainless blade in the burgundy/yellow pack.



Found in both 100 micron and 90 micro (guess that 100 micron is pre-2016 as Derby appear to have standardised on 90 micron now) and the newer is based on Swedish Steel ... perhaps a premium-class blade?



One that I have not actually tried - it's a chromium coated super stainless blade.

 

[lozioditalia]

Azmüsebat ... you know, the parent company behind Derby.

Global offerings appear to be the well-known Derby Extra, the also well known Derby Premium and the more esoteric Derby Usta ... but let's hear from Derby themselves as to the differences:

While all three blades are made by Derby, there are notable differences in terms of sharpness, coatings, and performance:​

​

Derby Extra: This is the most gentle option, offering a milder shave, which makes it great for beginners or those with sensitive skin. It’s less sharp compared to the other two, which helps reduce the risk of irritation.​

​

Derby Usta: The Usta blades strike a balance between the Extra and the Premium. They are sharper than the Derby Extra, providing a closer shave while still being smooth and forgiving. It’s a good mid-range choice for those looking for something sharper without being overly aggressive.​

​

Derby Premium: This is the sharpest of the three and comes with a higher-grade coating, including platinum, which enhances both sharpness and durability. It’s ideal for those with thicker or coarser hair and is often preferred by experienced shavers.​

Source: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/difference-in-derby-blades.658120/

So, three grades ...

View attachment 134627View attachment 134628View attachment 134629

Important to note that the Derby Premium displays the words "Swedish Steel" upon the face of the tuck and this will be the higher-quality Sandvik Steel. Whether the other blades are not of this grade is questionable but they do make a deal of this with the Premium ... and just one of their private label blades.

To my face, there are indeed differences and my interpretation is as follows:

Derby Extra - Baseline … more smooth than sharp in character and a good shave
Derby USTA - Mid-range … definitely sharp over smooth and potentially delivers a closer shave
Derby Premium - Best of both? ... grade of metal delivering both a sharp, close shave with some refinement

Azmüsebat also make a host of private label blades which for the purposes of this guide I have divided into two categories - one group more akin to the Usta and the other group more akin to the Premium. None of these are like the Derby Extra in character and I suppose we there can consider the Derby Extra to be Azmüsebat's flagship blade (yes, rather than the Premium).

First group ... more like the Derby Usta:

View attachment 134630View attachment 134631View attachment 134632

All three of these give really nice shaves and actually none of them are exactly like the Usta but they are all certainly sharper than the Derby Extra but all without the refinement of the Derby Premium. The Bluebird Hi-Stainless gave what I think was the sharpest of these three but left some post-shave irritation, certainly on the first and second shaves ... while the Lion Super Stainless was the pick of this bunch for my preferences delivering a sharp and close shave that put me much in mind of the good SuperMax Super Stainless blades. I'd pick the Lion Super Stainless above the Derby Usta.

Second group ... more like the Derby Premium:

View attachment 134634View attachment 134635View attachment 134636

Again, all three gave lovely shaves and my reason for grouping them as akin to the Derby Premium is because they deliver what I'd say is a more refined shaver. Certainly the Parker Premium Platinum is (in my mind) absolutely the Derby Premium specification and right down to the statement of Swedish steel (on Parker's website although not on the pack) while I'd say the standout from this group is the Diamonds Pro Excell which I would pick above the Derby Premium as I thought it delivered a far better balance between sharpness and smoothness ... on my face, anyway. I've put the Lamix Platinum Plus Pro 5 into this group as well although I think this is a much older blade (and discontinued) ... I certainly think it's a premium-class blade.

Final thought is a summary chart from the sharpness testing undertaken on B&B which you can read all about the methodology here: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/blade-sharpness-research-project.652790/ and even lookup these blades for some further detail and discussion within the thread.

View attachment 134638

Perfect analysis! The whole analysis of the Turkish blade company is correct. The only thing I wouldn't rely on too much is the Derby Extra green blades indication so there are pre and/or post 2016 horizontal and vertical models.
There is no way to determine that anymore, except for the tissue paper if it has the more recent Azmusebat inscription in that case they are absolutely recent production.

 

[lozioditalia]

Not only, but also ...

Much discussion (and even some contoversy) around these blades but I'm going to show them as part of this guide to Azmüsebat because Azmüsebat are the only razor blade maker in Türkiye and these blades are all made in Türkiye ... make of that what you will.

View attachment 134639

Considered pretty rough and presumably pre-2016 Derby actually, I found them to be pretty agreeable and almost akin to the Vidyut/SuperMax Economy Stainless blade in the burgundy/yellow pack.

View attachment 134640

Found in both 100 micron and 90 micro (guess that 100 micron is pre-2016 as Derby appear to have standardised on 90 micron now) and the newer is based on Swedish Steel ... perhaps a premium-class blade?

View attachment 134641

One that I have not actually tried - it's a chromium coated super stainless blade.

Zaza blades would now appear to have been discontinued and discontinued, only Zaza platinum available on RCB. Zaza red package nowhere to be found.

Lord Super Razor Zaza available and seen on the Italian barbaebaffi store , not sure if they may have been discontinued as well.

 

[pjgh]

Very likely that many of these are discontinued and we're just seeing old stock out there.

 

[lozioditalia]

Azmüsebat ... you know, the parent company behind Derby.

Global offerings appear to be the well-known Derby Extra, the also well known Derby Premium and the more esoteric Derby Usta ... but let's hear from Derby themselves as to the differences:

While all three blades are made by Derby, there are notable differences in terms of sharpness, coatings, and performance:​

​

Derby Extra: This is the most gentle option, offering a milder shave, which makes it great for beginners or those with sensitive skin. It’s less sharp compared to the other two, which helps reduce the risk of irritation.​

​

Derby Usta: The Usta blades strike a balance between the Extra and the Premium. They are sharper than the Derby Extra, providing a closer shave while still being smooth and forgiving. It’s a good mid-range choice for those looking for something sharper without being overly aggressive.​

​

Derby Premium: This is the sharpest of the three and comes with a higher-grade coating, including platinum, which enhances both sharpness and durability. It’s ideal for those with thicker or coarser hair and is often preferred by experienced shavers.​

Source: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/difference-in-derby-blades.658120/

Just a small clarification on this.
The member who reports in the B&B forum on the differences between the different Derby blades writes that he received that information from Perma Brands Corp. s received It seems to be a shop in America.

We do not know on what basis they write this, it is not certain that they report information received directly from Azmusebat.

 

[lozioditalia]

Azmüsebat ... you know, the parent company behind Derby.

Global offerings appear to be the well-known Derby Extra, the also well known Derby Premium and the more esoteric Derby Usta ... but let's hear from Derby themselves as to the differences:

While all three blades are made by Derby, there are notable differences in terms of sharpness, coatings, and performance:​

​

Derby Extra: This is the most gentle option, offering a milder shave, which makes it great for beginners or those with sensitive skin. It’s less sharp compared to the other two, which helps reduce the risk of irritation.​

​

Derby Usta: The Usta blades strike a balance between the Extra and the Premium. They are sharper than the Derby Extra, providing a closer shave while still being smooth and forgiving. It’s a good mid-range choice for those looking for something sharper without being overly aggressive.​

​

Derby Premium: This is the sharpest of the three and comes with a higher-grade coating, including platinum, which enhances both sharpness and durability. It’s ideal for those with thicker or coarser hair and is often preferred by experienced shavers.​

Source: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/difference-in-derby-blades.658120/

So, three grades ...

View attachment 134627View attachment 134628View attachment 134629

Important to note that the Derby Premium displays the words "Swedish Steel" upon the face of the tuck and this will be the higher-quality Sandvik Steel. Whether the other blades are not of this grade is questionable but they do make a deal of this with the Premium ... and just one of their private label blades.

To my face, there are indeed differences and my interpretation is as follows:

Derby Extra - Baseline … more smooth than sharp in character and a good shave
Derby USTA - Mid-range … definitely sharp over smooth and potentially delivers a closer shave
Derby Premium - Best of both? ... grade of metal delivering both a sharp, close shave with some refinement

Azmüsebat also make a host of private label blades which for the purposes of this guide I have divided into two categories - one group more akin to the Usta and the other group more akin to the Premium. None of these are like the Derby Extra in character and I suppose we there can consider the Derby Extra to be Azmüsebat's flagship blade (yes, rather than the Premium).

First group ... more like the Derby Usta:

View attachment 134630View attachment 134631View attachment 134632

All three of these give really nice shaves and actually none of them are exactly like the Usta but they are all certainly sharper than the Derby Extra but all without the refinement of the Derby Premium. The Bluebird Hi-Stainless gave what I think was the sharpest of these three but left some post-shave irritation, certainly on the first and second shaves ... while the Lion Super Stainless was the pick of this bunch for my preferences delivering a sharp and close shave that put me much in mind of the good SuperMax Super Stainless blades. I'd pick the Lion Super Stainless above the Derby Usta.

Second group ... more like the Derby Premium:

View attachment 134634View attachment 134635View attachment 134636

Again, all three gave lovely shaves and my reason for grouping them as akin to the Derby Premium is because they deliver what I'd say is a more refined shaver. Certainly the Parker Premium Platinum is (in my mind) absolutely the Derby Premium specification and right down to the statement of Swedish steel (on Parker's website although not on the pack) while I'd say the standout from this group is the Diamonds Pro Excell which I would pick above the Derby Premium as I thought it delivered a far better balance between sharpness and smoothness ... on my face, anyway. I've put the Lamix Platinum Plus Pro 5 into this group as well although I think this is a much older blade (and discontinued) ... I certainly think it's a premium-class blade.

Final thought is a summary chart from the sharpness testing undertaken on B&B which you can read all about the methodology here: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/blade-sharpness-research-project.652790/ and even lookup these blades for some further detail and discussion within the thread.

View attachment 134638

I just found out that there is also a black Lamix Premier Professional package. Both Lamix blades the orange and black packages are only available for the Brazilian market.

 

[pjgh]

Oh, good sleuthing! I love the spelling of profissional!

 

[pjgh]

So, some devil in the detail ... he says:



We know that the Lamix Platinum Plus used to be made in Germany and became the Lamix Platinum Plus Pro 5 when they were produced in Türkije. What he's saying above is that the Lamix New Platinum Pro is made in South Korea and the Lamix Premier in Vietnam (both from Dorco).

Lamix was clearly a short-lived commission for Azmüsebat. I rate 'em highly and consider them of the Premier class ... which kinda bears out with the word Premier on the black packaging and on the Lamix Premier (mentioned but not shown).

 

[SeanC]

Excellent write-up

I concur 100% with your findings. Derby Premium are indeed the pick of the bunch. Smooth, yet sharp and often available on Amazon for c£6 per 100.

I started a thread on the Diamonds Pro Excell almost a decade ago (frightening): https://www.theshavingroom.co.uk/community/threads/diamonds-pro-excell-blades.34108/

Again, a very good blade

 

[lozioditalia]

So, some devil in the detail ... he says:

View attachment 134793

We know that the Lamix Platinum Plus used to be made in Germany and became the Lamix Platinum Plus Pro 5 when they were produced in Türkije. What he's saying above is that the Lamix New Platinum Pro is made in South Korea and the Lamix Premier in Vietnam (both from Dorco).

To my knowledge Dorco has not produced any type of blades in South Korea for decades and they only produce razors in the Korea factory, no type of blade.

I gather that even the Lamix New Platinum Pro blades are actually produced in Vietnam, also seen in this video on the package it says "Made in Vietnam under License Dorco Ltd. Korea" like any other Dorco blade.

 

[lozioditalia]

It reminded me that in Brazil the Derby Extra blades for Brazilian market the Derby Extra writing at the top horizontally with the blade barcode in the centre.
At least I've never seen them like this, I think they are Derby Extra in the package only for Brazil and/or Latin American countries.

 

[Mark12]

Great read. I started out with the Extra but then found the Premiums which felt so much better. I actually think they are my preferred choice currently and they’re so cheap and easy on Amazon. I should really return to the Extras and try again given they were the very first blade I slaughtered my face with in the beginning. I’m sure I must have more technique by now!

 

[lozioditalia]

Great read. I started out with the Extra but then found the Premiums which felt so much better. I actually think they are my preferred choice currently and they’re so cheap and easy on Amazon. I should really return to the Extras and try again given they were the very first blade I slaughtered my face with in the beginning. I’m sure I must have more technique by now!

In the opinion of many, including myself, the Derby Premium blades are better and preferable to both the Derby Usta and Derby Extra. It is strange that the Premium ones also cost less than the Extra.

The Derby Usta if purchased directly from Turkey could cost less, at least in Italy. It seems much better than the Derby Extra blade to me.