Bluffers Guide to British Triple Milled

pjgh said:
Yes ... and that's why I've put the order of formulations as I did. think C&E were moved off a formulation that strikes a strong resemblance to known Broad Oak customers and went to a known supplier (Soapworks) for a very short-lived 2016 and 2017, before discontinuing shaving soaps.

Perfect! This makes a LOT of sense now!

Standard (pre-2011) < known/confirmed
Sandalwood, Sienna & Nomad (c.2011) and on the known Soapworks formulation of the time
Sandalwood, Sienna & Nomad (c.?) also sold with the Broad Oak (guess) formulation to 2013
Indian Sandalwood, West Indian Limes & Moroccan Myrrh (c.2013) ... and I think this was initially the same Broad Oak (guess) formulation to 2016
Indian Sandalwood, West Indian Limes & Moroccan Myrrh (c.2016) no longer able to use the "good" formulation moved back to Soapworks, now with a slightly tweaked formulation but still not functional as a shaving soap < this formulation is current Trumpers
Shaving soaps discontinued (c.2017?)
Click to expand...

Huh! Just when you think you have it all figured out ... a curveball!

Prior to 2011, C&E used the Standard Company Ltd formulation which we've known and loved as Mysore Sandalwood & Sweet Almond Oil.

Ingredients ...

Mysore Sandalwood
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Stearic Acid, Fragrance (Parfum), Isoproyl Myristate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Chloride, BHT, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), D&C Yellow No.10 (CI 47005), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI77499)

Sweet Almond Oil
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Stearic Acid, Fragrance (Parfum), Prunus Amygdalus Dulcus (Sweet Almond) Oil, Isoproyl Myristate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Chloride, BHT, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumerin, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Butyphenyl Methylproponal, Linalool, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)

... then, I find this:

AP1GczNa0_k4jxuel4MKz_D1jLQjVWP7mrqK5DcaZSjBGgODr4L7cG4BKSuDqDr7QajJ8FmFA9huxcd2QVbHae_PMBw6DZvxqH3QpPfkuTob52WTEvEEYbTWd3UDjqXP0S5hpVUPGPbEqrtuOgrWZzP_6yRlFA=w800


AP1GczNKITWVOIAdLeW1G8siYH8y9HDAQox1oopuc9ag0JnpJazrye-82MsEWLmrV5xVmteepTlg18vteoSNCPEWu7zH0yIQq4Y8GHXPR1VjQydxMsF6wlTDqbqMXtXvr5ot5YrvUcu9pNLc8e0zcJsPo9HbpA=w800


Which, as you can see ... the ingredients list as:

Sandalwood
Sodium Palmate. Potassium Palmate. Sodium Palm Kernelate. Water (Aqua). Glycerin. Potassium Palm Kernelate. Stearic Acid, Fragrance (Parfum), Isopropyl Myristate. Tocopheryl Acetate. Bisabolol. Sodium Chloride. BHT. Tetrasodium EDTA. Tetrasodium Etidronate: Pentasodium Pentetate. Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyls Salicylate, Limonene Coumarin, Titanium Dioxide (Cl 77891), Iron Oxide Yellow (Ci 77492). Iron Oxide Red (Ci 77491). Iron Oxide, Black (CI 77499). Yellow 5 (CI 19140)

... same "Sodium Palmate. Potassium Palmate. Sodium Palm Kernelate. Water (Aqua). Glycerin. Potassium Palm Kernelate. Stearic Acid, Fragrance (Parfum)" as Mysore Sandalwood & Sweet Almond Oil. Classic Standard Company Ltd formulation.

So what? You're thinking ...

Well, this Sandalwood, accompanied by Sienna & Nomad we more commonly found (in fact, yet to find Sienna or Nomad in this older formulation) as follows:

Sandalwood c.2011 onwards
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua (Water), Potassium Cocoate, Glycerin, Fragrance (Parfum), Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Limonene, Linalool, Amyl Cinnamal, Coumarin, Hydroxyisohexyl-3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Eugenol, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)

This is the post-Standard Company Ltd sell-off formulation from Soapworks Ltd, known to be "not good" and afflicted Pen's, Trumpers & T&H (and more).

Sandalwood c.2013? onwards
Potassium Palmate, Sodium Palmate, Potassium Stearate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Aqua (Water), Sodium Stearate, Glycerin, Fragrance (Parfum), Palm Kernel Acid, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Benzyl Benzoate, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Coumarin, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), CI 19140 (Yellow 5), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI77499 (Iron Oxides)

Musing above, I think C&E shared with Floris/TOBS supplier for a better formulation in that period.

... but notice also, Bisabolol in the formulation across all three? This ingredient is pretty much C&E only although I have found it in post-2011 Pen's ("bad" formulation) and one other Yardley English Blazer (from the 1990s) which incidentally is VERY much akin to the Sodium Palmate first ingredient list that I'm identifying as the Standard Company Ltd formulation.

Either way, this does appear to be an anomaly ... or rather a soap caught between worlds. I think it's the earliest incarnation of Sandalwood (as distinct from Mysore Sandalwood) and likely just before the Standard Company Ltd sell-off to Soapworks Ltd. It must have been VERY short-lived.
 
So, all 'Good ol' days' photos aside, is there a definitive list of CURRENTLY MANUFACTURED AS OF THIS VERY MOMENT British non-artisan soaps who still use tallow? :unsure:
 
Bogeyman said:
So, all 'Good ol' days' photos aside, is there a definitive list of CURRENTLY MANUFACTURED AS OF THIS VERY MOMENT British non-artisan soaps who still use tallow? :unsure:
Click to expand...

That's column B (2024 soaps) with the white writing (tallowate).

I don't do this shit for fun, you know? :ROFLMAO:

DR Harris
Captain Fawcett (same formulation as new DR Harris)
Cyril R Salter < TBC (likely onto same formulation as new DR Harris)

... did I say, DR Harris?

To be absolutely frank, with these 2024-style stearate-first formulations that don't have tallow tacked onto the front of the ingredients (like DR Harris) the non-tallow perform exactly the same IMO. The face-feel, in-shave performance and post-shave feel is most akin to those soaps from the 2000s and back into the 1990s which were stearate-first and may or may not have contained tallow. Todays soaps feel very much like a revival of that era.
 
Pontormo said:
here’s what’s packed into the Kenize Ten shaving soap:
Click to expand...

Cool!

The ingredient order follows the same order as Muhle. Guessing mid-2010s. Some of the minor ingredients might give us a clearer steer as to the maker (Knize Ten are a perfume house) and "Cocamidopropyl Betaine" is found only in Muhle and Klar Seifen in the list of almost 300 such soaps that I have detailed. I've long thought Muhle was actually made by Klar. Anyway, likely it's a Muhle/Klar soap - is the scent the Knize Ten scent?

Good catch, if you've just bought it.
 
Bogeyman said:
Full out tallow abandon it appears.
Click to expand...
Sadly yes, but the artisanal Italians are producing very fine soaps with it.

It would appear the soap base/noodle manufacturers no longer have access, probably because the soap base suppliers are owned or are based in Indonesia/Malaysia.

The hot pour manufacturers, who produce their own bases can and are still using Tallow.
 
An impulse buy—and I'm bloody glad I went for it. Hans Baier’s sapone duro da barba looks like it could be a little gem. I originally thought it had a vegan base (i'd read online that olive oil was dominant), but the ingredients reveal it’s actually tallow-based. Even better, it has a glorious bergamot scent—the same note I pick up behind the lavender and peppermint in Czech & Speake Oxford and Cambridge pucks.

20250517_185408.jpg
20250517_185417.jpg
 
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