blade restoration guidlines

K

kevinS

Messages
5
Hi Guys,

I'm considering restoring an old blade not anything flashy so nothing lost if it all goes pear shape. Couple of points I would welcome other peoples views on.

When removing the scales from the blade is it possible to save the scales or is this neigh on impossible not to score them when you grind out the pins. I was going to use a dremel with an emery wheel. or clamp and drill out.

What's the best way to clean the blade up. Is it just a case of hours of polishing with a mild metal polish or can a power flap wheel and mild metal polish be used, are there any chemical baths to saok the blade and disolve some of the rust marks out. I'm not hinking of heavy acid baths here just pre-soaking some of the staining off before polishing.

Re-assembling the scales where can you get brass or nickle plated pins and small washers from. Do people generally hone the edge of the blade before the scales are assembled or after.

Await the replies with anticipation then off down the workshop to do some fettling.

Cheers for now

Kevin
 
Well. The first point is that it's your razor, so you get to make all the decisions in the end. Some people are very down on extensive restorations, whilst others are more than happy to grind away engravings, reshape blades, put antique razors into carbon fibre scales designed along the lines of a Klingon battlecruiser ... your choice.

To answer your questions as best I can. Yes, you can save the scales, and quite probably the washers by drilling the pin out and knocking the remains of it through with a drift. Alternatively, you can file it away, but then the washers are lost. For drilling, centre punch heavily first, and go steady. Unless you're an artist with the Dremel, that's likely to chew up the scales. It's worth keeping them as a template to copy, or at least as a guide to pin spacing and wedge angle.

Cleaning up the blade is a matter of what works best for you, either slow and steady with finer and finer abrasives, or using power tools. Plenty of information and opinion on this in the SRP wiki:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/index.php/Category:Repair_%26_Restoration" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/i ... estoration</a><!-- m -->
and loads more in the main forum. If you opt for the Dremel, think very carefully about how you are going to secure the blade, and don't work into the edge. Without sounding like a health and safety man, common sense should tell you how dangerous that could be.

Pins are usually 1/16" brass rod, available from model suppliers: just Google it. Washers are a matter of making your own, or going to these people:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.microfasteners.com/index.cfm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.microfasteners.com/index.cfm</a><!-- m -->
and ordering a bag of FWB0. Neil has a source for nickel silver ones, I think. It's also worth getting some 1/16" nuts and bolts from that site for setting up the scales.

Honing. Up to you; I'd put the scales on first.
 
Cheers Arrowhead, took the scales off last night they weren't very nice and the pins were not up to much, just looked like old thin nails without a washer around them. the back pin looks a lot better may try to save them but i've alos got myself some nice hardwood to start playing with.

Kevin
 
Im a very very noobie restorer, just dabbling atm. But ive cleaned up a couple of blades from rusted crap to what i consider a 'ok' condition using pure hand sanding.

Quick it is not, but its oddly relaxing
Started using 80 Grit and working up to 2500 Grit - Wet sanding with Grape seed oil on a Magnetic Jig i made.

m01e.jpg


Its basically just a pine block inset with a couple of Neodymium Magnets, Covered with several layers of Duck tape.
The back has a raised bar that the spine rests against. Allows me to sand without the blade slipping.

rhcb.jpg


km5.jpg


On previous scales ive managed to drill out the pins and save the scales.. All save for a pair with Terminal cell rot.
I junked the scales and saved these

hngm.jpg


Something ive done then as apparently its in the contract - Bear in mind im a total wood working beginner here - beyond a few lessons 25 years ago ive done nothing since.
Im learning as i go along, and having a bit of fun into the bargain.

Blade / Scales aren't perfect, it uses micro fasteners for pins and needs more work but hey ho. Got to start somewhere.
Scales are Maple lined with Brass. It probably wont ever be shaved with , more a folly really.
(For the purists the original razor cost me £2, one scale was in 2 bits, the other had a crack down the centre so there was no saving them at all)

lt6.jpg


Honing the blades up after restoration is something i may learn to do in the future, but its a hell of a learning curve so ill likely end up just sending a few of the better blades that appear to be sound to be honed.
Till i feel im ready to start the long learning process anyway.
 
A very nice job!

I made one of those magnetic holders, primarily to hold the blade while using a dremel so I wanted it strong and used five rare-earth magnets. I hated the dremel and gave it up after one or two attempts, but the holder still occasionally sees service. It is so strong that it magnetises the blade, though - pesky iron fillings stick to it all over! Nothing one of those de-magnetisers couldn't cure, though.

Regards,
Neil
 
That razor looks fantastic I use one of those holders as well I have got old hard drive magnets in mine and use it for all my restoration work.
 
I used to work in "the Magnet Centre" at Sunderland Poly - we had a massive horseshoe permanent magnet there made of Neodymium, Boron and I think Iron (makes sense - It was a NIB magnet) that required the use of an aluminium crowbar to remove the keeper bar... oh, the japes we used to have switching the aluminium crowbar out for a steel one, using it through the wall to lift a chair up the wall or moving chairs across the floor above :mrgreen:

This magnet when "open" would capture a full tin can passing within about 1.5m - it was immensely powerful :ugeek:

I've often wondered what happened to that magnet since the Magnet Centre closed :(
 
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