Bespoke clothes and accessories in China

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Scheduled to be in Shanghai for roughly two months, I have already asked some of the colleagues in our office for recommendations on the following:

- bespoke suits, low / medium / high price range;
- bespoke shoes.

Having been here before two times already, I do have an indication of where prices and quality of craftsmanship stand. At the moment the situation is as follows:

Tailor-made suits and shirts:

There are 'markets', as they call them, where inside you can find from 50-200 booths. From what I understand so far, these actually relate more to 'cutters' than to tailors. The very positive thing there is that the value-for-money is high and that they can do for you any kind of design (even if you print, for example, the latest suit design by a well known brand and bring it to them).

The negative is that you have to let them know every detail (i.e. you cannot leave anything in chance, there have been cases where people got a very nice suit but the internal lining was red).

Prices in these markets/booths range at the average of CNY 100 for shirts and CNY 1,000 for suits (that is 10 and 100 Pounds Sterling respectively). I am told that the quality is very good indeed for what you get.

The bonus is that in some these booths there are tailors/cutters who make leather bespoke jackets/coats. A colleague showed me a sheepskin leather jacket he had made 3 years ago for 90 Pounds and uses it mainly when he rides his Ducati back in Italy. Very nice stuff for the price he paid.

On the medium to high price range, I am aware of two tailors. I was quoted already around 6,000 CNY for a Loro Piana cloth suit, and 12,000 / 9,000 CNY for two different qualities of Zegna cloth suit. These three quotes are without bargaining, and from what I know so far there can be at least a 10% discount on these rates (I actually plan to go for a 40% discount as I intend to make two suits, a cashmere jacket and a dozen shirts).

The shirts with these two more expensive tailors go for 500 CNY or 980 CNY, depending on whether we talk about few of the Italian or English cotton samples respectively which I have already been shown. These prices are, again, without any bargaining (and I am sure there is a lot of room for that).

Dealing with these tailors must have a lot of room for bargaining as I now recall an experience I have had in Hong Kong, back in 2007, when I had two Zegna suits made to measure at a well known and expensive tailor chain (Tai Pan Row).

In any case I will revert with more info, experiences or data & possibly pictures in due course.

Bespoke shoes:

A colleague here was wearing yesterday a pair of Chinese-made short boots, leather used was veal. Think of something like short-boot styled lace-up Oxfords in very light brown colour. I do not know the prices but I've got the address of the specific market/booth no. where I can go and have such bespoke shoes made, so I will revert in due course as well.
 
Sounds promising, can you find out how much the cufflinks are and what the quality is like?
 
I'm not looking for cufflinks specifically but if/when I see them around I'll check accordingly. I'll let you know.

I'm sure there are lots of them but it always depends on what one may be looking for. If you're looking for copies of original ones, then the Fake Market is where I should be looking for (I'll go there as well, not for my stuff though).

If you're looking for some descent ones, I've only come across such stuff in Hong Kong and can tell you they were really good and cheap (I've got 3-4 pairs if I remember correctly, they really looked very similar to some of Paul Smith's models at the time).

Point is where exactly to find those here, as they must be available and certainly be cheaper as well. But I guess when I go (tomorrow or Sunday) to that 'Fabric Market' with hundreds of seamstresses there, there must be some cufflinks around...

http://www.smartshanghai.com/venue/1701/Fabric_Market_shanghai

Went to two small bespoke shoe shops this evening, while on my way to go and have haircut. Very nice shoes, a very wide variety of leathers available, prices around 1,200-1,500 CNY (i.e. 120-150 Pounds) and 25 days delivery time. The 120 quid was asked and kind of promised as I told them I'll order three pairs.

I'll try to take pictures if and when I can, I'm planning to visit more tomorrow and place the order by Monday.

This is where I started off for the bespoke shoes (two of those will be checked tomorrow):

http://www.smartshanghai.com/listings/shopping/handmadeshoes/

But on the way tonight I found two other small shops nearby my hotel. There's no end here, it's pretty clear, you can have anything done/made...
 
Leather coats and jackets... Last fall when I was looking for one almost all of the Men's magazines that I checked recommended that one look at products from China. Reason was that they are the leading producer in the world now of leather goods and that because of that they also now have the best leather workers.
Went with a lamb skin jacket from a chain store and it was an excellent buy.
 
I promised pictures by the end of this week and here we go:

All pairs of leather shoes are 130 Pounds Sterling after the discount, the semi-boots are 180 Pounds (before discount) and taller boots are more expensive. This price is for stitched leather soles, and if you get a model that does not have stitching for the sole, it is cheaper by about 20 Pounds or so.

The brown and black croco pairs shown (the ones which are behind the glass) are from real crocodile, they cost 1,200 Pounds each. The black one is from a small alligator, one small alligator's skin is used exclusively for making that single pair.

The brown and blue pair you will see separately, the ones that look like croco leather, is actually calf skin, as are most of the rest of course.

2_2tones_yellow_lightbrown.jpg


2_suede_Oxfords.jpg

Oxford suedes, brown and blue.

2tone_Purple_lightbrown.jpg


3_fancy_ones.jpg


Black_shiny_and_suede_boot.jpg


Blue_calf.jpg


Blue_red_2tone.jpg


Brown_calf.jpg


Croco_12000.jpg

Real brown crocodile leather with red calf internal leather lining as well.

Croco_black_small.jpg

Real black (small) crocodile.

Croco_skins_01.jpg

Real crocodile skins

Croco_skins_02.jpg


Green.jpg


Ladies.jpg


Light_brown.jpg





Mocasines.jpg


Red_funky_one.jpg


Sole_leather.jpg


Var_leather_samples_01.jpg

Leather samples to choose from.

Var_leather_samples_02.jpg


Apologies for the pictures, some are overexposed, others are blurred, I had to use f/2 in there and took them in a hurry.
 
Edit: Just to add that I've tried something less than half of the pairs shown, as they happened to be my or near my size (8-8 1/2). The leathers feel good, some are softer than others (the dark cherry red loafers for example are harder than others), but for the money he's asking per pair they all seemed very comfortable, well made and very good value to me.

If you notice a pair on the left (from the 'ladies' photo) and the red sample on top (in one of the 'sample leathers' pictures) these are from horse leather. I'll most likely order 3-4 pairs (no surprises, stuff you see in those pics) so I'll post pictures if and when I will get them in my hands.
 
I'm going to be spending a month in/around Delhi this summer, I'm hoping to find a good tailor/cobbler while I'm over there.. I don't suppose anybody has any personal experience they could share?
 
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