Any advice on what I can use to replace the strop?The strop has a hole in it right in the middle of where the blade will glide. I'd say nope to that plate. The hone might come good lapped with some gritpaper. Alas, the blade looks (small picture, mind) to have some tarnish, possibly rust all the way to the blade edge. I'd be wary.
Definitely worth keeping as an ornament and for letting other folks clatter it about ...
Doh.... Obviously sand paper.... What grit would you recommend.Any advice on what I can use to replace the strop?
And what is gritpaper?
What works for me, resetting the blade is to remove the guard from the blade, tape the spine of the blade with one layer of tape and hone it on a progression of lapping film, working it on the 15 micron finishing film until the edge is clean and free from micro chips, corrosion and other defects, then work through a progression of 12, 9, 5, 3 and 1 micron films on a glass plate. One other issue is uneven spine wear on the blade, which seems to be general wear and tear from using the Rolls system, minor wear isn't too worrying, but excessive wear is a problem.Perhaps steve could provide some details on the bevel angle, and time involved.
I think there are several ways of achieving the same end - my thoughts are that the over-riding aim is to match the blade bevel to that of the Rolls system, hence taking care to maintain the thickness of the strop and hone, if the thickness of these is off, then you're not going to be able to maintain the edge of your newly re-set blade, also, the strop needs to be supple and flat, to contact the full width of the blade - I've had strops which at first glance seem OK, but the Sharpy test shows that contact is on the centre, or the two extreme edges, of the blade, hence ensuring that a cleaned strop is dried flatThis set up worked for me,
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