After a bit of advice please. . . Been using the DE89 razor for over half a year now. Its way better than the starter WS Classic plastic razor I began with and the carts I used prior to that. Obviously my technique has improved over time, I feel I've mapped my beard pretty well and am learning all the time what does and doesn't work for my face. I've been testing blades recently, ruled out a couple that are simply too harsh for me but have several that I like. My problem is this - whilst I appreciate that good prep & technique play a big part in a shave, I have a nagging feeling that a change in hardware could be good for me for reasons I will explain.
My problem comes in after my second pass (an XTG one). At this point I am often in two minds as to whether to do an ATG pass or not. What happens when I shave ATG, specifically on the area under the jawline, either side of the chin (the lower cheeks really), is that it feels like the blade is skipping, dragging or scraping, despite me trying my best to apply minimal pressure. "How is your prep?" I hear you ask. . . well I shower / bathe etc first, only shave ATG after going WTG & XTG first, I get a good slick lather, use a blade no more than 3 times, mostly cold water shave, I bowl lather but swirl the lather round on the face with the brush, especially onto the problem area, to try and hydrate & lift the hairs ready to cut. But I still encounter so much resistance ATG on the lower cheeks that it ends up hurting and leaving my face red. The stubble grows almost flat against the skin and out sideways there, which I guess is why I feel that scraping when going ATG (ear to nose). Occasionally I get ingrowers there but nowhere near as many as when I used carts (strangely, my ingrowers with carts were always on the neck, even though I never went ATG there with carts, now I do at times go ATG on the neck but don't get ingrowers there, go figure!)
"Why do you shave ATG then?" you may well ask. . . Well, because if I don't, it looks, and feels, like I've barely shaved. For the sake of my skin, I consider cutting out the ATG pass totally. But if I do, I currently don't get anywhere near a close enough shave with 2 (a WTG & a XTG) passes with the DE89. I am hoping that there is a razor out there which can mow down enough in the first 2 passes for me to feel I don't even need an ATG pass. Of course, I am open to technique tips and realise it is not the razor alone, but I really feel that prep & technique is decent, and that exploring one of a few options may help. I've been reading up on whats out there and referring to a razor aggressiveness chart guide I found online. What do you think of the following options:
Dave
My problem comes in after my second pass (an XTG one). At this point I am often in two minds as to whether to do an ATG pass or not. What happens when I shave ATG, specifically on the area under the jawline, either side of the chin (the lower cheeks really), is that it feels like the blade is skipping, dragging or scraping, despite me trying my best to apply minimal pressure. "How is your prep?" I hear you ask. . . well I shower / bathe etc first, only shave ATG after going WTG & XTG first, I get a good slick lather, use a blade no more than 3 times, mostly cold water shave, I bowl lather but swirl the lather round on the face with the brush, especially onto the problem area, to try and hydrate & lift the hairs ready to cut. But I still encounter so much resistance ATG on the lower cheeks that it ends up hurting and leaving my face red. The stubble grows almost flat against the skin and out sideways there, which I guess is why I feel that scraping when going ATG (ear to nose). Occasionally I get ingrowers there but nowhere near as many as when I used carts (strangely, my ingrowers with carts were always on the neck, even though I never went ATG there with carts, now I do at times go ATG on the neck but don't get ingrowers there, go figure!)
"Why do you shave ATG then?" you may well ask. . . Well, because if I don't, it looks, and feels, like I've barely shaved. For the sake of my skin, I consider cutting out the ATG pass totally. But if I do, I currently don't get anywhere near a close enough shave with 2 (a WTG & a XTG) passes with the DE89. I am hoping that there is a razor out there which can mow down enough in the first 2 passes for me to feel I don't even need an ATG pass. Of course, I am open to technique tips and realise it is not the razor alone, but I really feel that prep & technique is decent, and that exploring one of a few options may help. I've been reading up on whats out there and referring to a razor aggressiveness chart guide I found online. What do you think of the following options:
- Stay with DE closed comb / solid bar, but move up the aggressiveness (efficiency) scale. The DE89 is ranked as 2.5/10 on the scale, I could move to something like an ATT R1, which comes in at 6.5/10.
- Similarly, I could buy an R41 head to try on my EJ handle. Not sure going from one extreme to the other is wise though (9.5/10 !)
- Try an Open Comb DE, perhaps a Fatip Piccolo / Grande would be a good cheap way in (5/10).
- Try an SE, I believe the blades are more rigid (& last longer) and thus can help those with sensitive skin. Razorock Hawk would be a good cheap way in, the ATT SE1 Calypso looks great but maybe silly to spend that much just yet if I'm not sure! (Don't know about efficiency levels, not on that chart)
- Try an adjustable, like a Rockwell 6C or Parker Variant. Just concerned that I'd be forever fiddling with it, using it as an excuse etc!
- Try shimming the DE89 some more. . . I tried it with one shim (never shimmed before) last night, it seemed to help a little, but I believe even a few shims in it won't really replicate what other razors are like, and I read that if you need to shim a razor than its probably not the best razor for you anyway.
Dave
Last edited: