One year into DE shaving - help!

I don't expect a new razor would fix everything overnight. But I have read multiple reviews stating that the users deem it to be smoother and more efficient than a DE89, which has piqued my interest
You might enjoy it... it it may be another DE to sell if your issues don't work out
 
When I don't feel up to three full passes with a DE, I sometimes use a DE for WTG, relather, & follow with a cartridge for XTG. Single pass, no multiple strokes. Works for me.


Oh, & Agent Shave UK has a black friday deal going on.
How does their black friday sale work? I can't see anything on it?
 
The razors you are discussing are at the mild end of the spectrum. You keep mentioning a "good lather". It might be that you are making too thick a lather and compensating for the thickness and the razor mildness with too much pressure.

I would be tempted to try a more aggressive razor for the first pass and a more hydrated lather.

You could try a Fatip Piccolo or my recommendation would be a Parker Variant. The Variant is a lovely razor for neck shaving. In my experience the Rockwell is the best but the Variant comes in a close second, but it has a greater range of efficiency than the Rockwell.

Try the WTG pass with a very very light touch with a higher aggressiveness of razor (razor or setting) than you normally would. Then drop down to something milder for your XTG - still keeping the light touch.

For lather, make as usual and apply to your face. Then dip the tips off your brush into warm water and work this into one of your cheeks. Keep working the lather until it builds back up to the consistency you had before. Repeat for the other cheek and each side of your neck. If you are using a badger brush support the loft with your fingers, barber style and don't compress the hairs against the face. This squeezes the water out too quickly and messes up the consistency.

You should end up with lather that appears as thick as your normal lather but should be 2x hydrated.

To finish you should clean the skin as quickly and affectively as possible. Try applying a hot flannel to clean the face, followed by a cold flannel to tighten the skin and calm it down.

I have a number of skin issues. I can go without any irritation when I am careful with my technique. I am sure, with experimentation, you will find the technique that works for you.
 
The razors you are discussing are at the mild end of the spectrum. You keep mentioning a "good lather". It might be that you are making too thick a lather and compensating for the thickness and the razor mildness with too much pressure.

I would be tempted to try a more aggressive razor for the first pass and a more hydrated lather.

You could try a Fatip Piccolo or my recommendation would be a Parker Variant. The Variant is a lovely razor for neck shaving. In my experience the Rockwell is the best but the Variant comes in a close second, but it has a greater range of efficiency than the Rockwell.

Try the WTG pass with a very very light touch with a higher aggressiveness of razor (razor or setting) than you normally would. Then drop down to something milder for your XTG - still keeping the light touch.

For lather, make as usual and apply to your face. Then dip the tips off your brush into warm water and work this into one of your cheeks. Keep working the lather until it builds back up to the consistency you had before. Repeat for the other cheek and each side of your neck. If you are using a badger brush support the loft with your fingers, barber style and don't compress the hairs against the face. This squeezes the water out too quickly and messes up the consistency.

You should end up with lather that appears as thick as your normal lather but should be 2x hydrated.

To finish you should clean the skin as quickly and affectively as possible. Try applying a hot flannel to clean the face, followed by a cold flannel to tighten the skin and calm it down.

I have a number of skin issues. I can go without any irritation when I am careful with my technique. I am sure, with experimentation, you will find the technique that works for you.
I've tried mild razors and aggressive razors and NEVER done that kind of damage to my skin. Never. Not as a newbie, not more recently.... I could shave drunk and I wouldn't end up like that. It isn't a razor issue.

Either the OP is doing something silly, and probably knows it, like going over areas again and again with no lather to get every last hair, or pressing the razor hard on the skin, or there's something else happening here which he needs to work out. It could be a medical issue.
 
I've tried mild razors and aggressive razors and NEVER done that kind of damage to my skin. Never. Not as a newbie, not more recently.... I could shave drunk and I wouldn't end up like that. It isn't a razor issue.

Either the OP is doing something silly, and probably knows it, like going over areas again and again with no lather to get every last hair, or pressing the razor hard on the skin, or there's something else happening here which he needs to work out. It could be a medical issue.

‘Doing something silly and probably knows it'? Why would I deliberately cock up a shave and keep doing something I know wrecks my face? I am still learning yes, as say many who been doing it years longer than I have, but after a year of DE shaving I am most certainly not ‘pressing the razor hard against the skin or ‘going over areas again and again with no lather to get every last hair.' I would have to be pretty stupid to be doing either after all this time. Regarding angle, I try for the around the recommended 30 degrees but sorry I haven't yet mastered holding a protractor against my face to get this exactly right. I'm not silly enough to be going in at really steep angles.

Though you seem convinced that blades can't affect a shave that much, the difference for me between a Rapira / Voskhod and say a GSB in my iKon OC is like chalk and cheese. Also I seem to have found a sweet spot in terms of passes, with 2 x WTG then 1 x XTG. My face can take an XTG pass but not really a second XTG in the other direction and definitely not an ATG pass. Given these discoveries, my face is starting to heal up now anyway. No need to be critical, I'm not the first poster on a shaving forum to have less than perfect skin and I won't be the last. I appreciate advice but am somewhat surprised that you'd think a year into DE shaving that I'd be dragging a blade repeatedly across my face with no lather.
 
‘Doing something silly and probably knows it'? Why would I deliberately cock up a shave and keep doing something I know wrecks my face? I am still learning yes, as say many who been doing it years longer than I have, but after a year of DE shaving I am most certainly not ‘pressing the razor hard against the skin or ‘going over areas again and again with no lather to get every last hair.' I would have to be pretty stupid to be doing either after all this time. Regarding angle, I try for the around the recommended 30 degrees but sorry I haven't yet mastered holding a protractor against my face to get this exactly right. I'm not silly enough to be going in at really steep angles.

Though you seem convinced that blades can't affect a shave that much, the difference for me between a Rapira / Voskhod and say a GSB in my iKon OC is like chalk and cheese. Also I seem to have found a sweet spot in terms of passes, with 2 x WTG then 1 x XTG. My face can take an XTG pass but not really a second XTG in the other direction and definitely not an ATG pass. Given these discoveries, my face is starting to heal up now anyway. No need to be critical, I'm not the first poster on a shaving forum to have less than perfect skin and I won't be the last. I appreciate advice but am somewhat surprised that you'd think a year into DE shaving that I'd be dragging a blade repeatedly across my face with no lather.
Everyone's skin is different. I have extremely problematic skin. I have been shaving with DEs and straights for 30 years. I have a large collection of razors and can get a BBS without irritation with all of them.

BUT

Even after all this time, one misstep and my face will flare up and I will be unable to shave for a couple of days.

Others will say, stick with one setup until you have mastered your technique. That might work, but personally I like to experiment.

Keep experimenting. You will find what works for your skin eventually.
 
Little experiment today. After reading this article:
https://www.bruceonshaving.com/2011/03/09/escaping-from-the-dark-side-a-road-map/
I thought I'd try a hybrid shave, so did the first pass WTG with cart razor then lathered up again and did a second WTG pass with the DE89 & Rapira. Yes, even though I hated this blade on the previous shave I thought I'd try it with the DE89 this time. As I had plenty of nice lather left I did a final XTG pass. Far better results than the other day's 3-pass iKon OC effort. A couple of hours after shaving my face feels fine and looks way better than in those last pics. I walked away with some stubble left as I'm sure I'm guilty of doing a little too much touch-up at times. A bit annoying having missed bits but having a decent shave and letting my skin heal up is far more of a priority right now. Only other thing I did differently was to let the Nivea Sensitive face wash stay on my face for a couple of minutes more before showering & shaving, which probably helped.

So now I'm looking at the possibility that its the open comb that is irritating my skin. That and/or doing that second XTG pass in the other direction. May face seems to be able to take an XTG pass, but a second one in the opposite direction is pushing it and ATG is not an option. I know the author of that article says to ditch multi blade carts when you've made the transition, but I may stick at this hybrid shave for a bit.

I agree with that article to a large extent. I do agree that the best way to learn DE shaving is to junk those aerosol cans, & start using a soap/cream, a brush & the user's old cartridge razor.
I also agree with the idea of using a DE & a cart for the second step. Where I disagree is the order of usage. A DE razor has the ability to cut down longer hair better than a cartridge razor, so the DE should be the first razor used, & the second pass should be with the cartridge. Cartridge razors do have some advantages over DE's - among these are pivoting heads, greater blade rigidity than any DE razor, skin stretching fins before the blade, & skin smoothing/friction reduction gel strips after the blade. Their disadvantages are too many blades & the lack of ability to mow down longer stubble. For these reasons, the cartridge razor should come after the DE.

And, I have tried out this combination. As earlier mentioned, I sometimes do a single WTG pass with my DE followed with a cartridge for an XTG on the days that I don't quite feel up to a full three pass shave. I get equally good results, & no skin irritation. (I'm prone to PFB.)

It's quite possible that the skin stretching of your WS Protector cart & the gel strip is what makes your skin not flare up.

Also niggling away at me is the urge to get a Rockwell 6C, read loads about it and its supposedly smoother & more efficient than a DE89. Add in the option to change plates and in theory (!) I may not need another razor for a very long time if I got one and like it. It will pay for itself if I move on the iKon. Not sure how much longer I can resist for. Everything I read keeps coming back to Rockwell. I now can't get 'Don't Go Back To Rockwell' out of my head (R.E.M. song Don't Go Back To Rockville) !

Rockwell razors seem to be currently going through some quality control issues. There are a lot of posts on wicked edge & B&B with the same theme. You may want to defer your purchase till things improve at their end.
 
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‘Doing something silly and probably knows it'? Why would I deliberately cock up a shave and keep doing something I know wrecks my face? I am still learning yes, as say many who been doing it years longer than I have, but after a year of DE shaving I am most certainly not ‘pressing the razor hard against the skin or ‘going over areas again and again with no lather to get every last hair.' I would have to be pretty stupid to be doing either after all this time. Regarding angle, I try for the around the recommended 30 degrees but sorry I haven't yet mastered holding a protractor against my face to get this exactly right. I'm not silly enough to be going in at really steep angles.

Though you seem convinced that blades can't affect a shave that much, the difference for me between a Rapira / Voskhod and say a GSB in my iKon OC is like chalk and cheese. Also I seem to have found a sweet spot in terms of passes, with 2 x WTG then 1 x XTG. My face can take an XTG pass but not really a second XTG in the other direction and definitely not an ATG pass. Given these discoveries, my face is starting to heal up now anyway. No need to be critical, I'm not the first poster on a shaving forum to have less than perfect skin and I won't be the last. I appreciate advice but am somewhat surprised that you'd think a year into DE shaving that I'd be dragging a blade repeatedly across my face with no lather.
I didn't say I think you are! The intent of the post was that you're probably not. Like you said, who would?!

I'm saying I could use whatever blade you give me and my face wouldn't end up like that. This is not something a new DE razor will fix, and I can't see how people suggesting to swap razor or blades will help.

It's either technique or medical (an issue with your skin). A different blade holder won't change anything
 
I agree with that article to a large extent. I do agree that the best way to learn DE shaving is to junk those aerosol cans, & start using a soap/cream, a brush & the user's old cartridge razor.
I also agree with the idea of using a DE & a cart for the second step. Where I disagree is the order of usage. A DE razor has the ability to cut down longer hair better than a cartridge razor, so the DE should be the first razor used, & the second pass should be with the cartridge. Cartridge razors do have some advantages over DE's - among these are pivoting heads, greater blade rigidity than any DE razor, skin stretching fins before the blade, & skin smoothing/friction reduction gel strips after the blade. Their disadvantages are too many blades & the lack of ability to mow down longer stubble. For these reasons, the cartridge razor should come after the DE.

And, I have tried out this combination. As earlier mentioned, I sometimes do a single WTG pass with my DE followed with a cartridge for an XTG on the days that I don't quite feel up to a full three pass shave. I get equally good results, & no skin irritation. (I'm prone to PFB.)

It's quite possible that the skin stretching of your WS Protector cart & the gel strip is what makes your skin not flare up.

Thanks for this. Last shave was after 3 days growth, and I tried your suggestion. Did 2 x WTG with the iKon OC, at as shallow an angle as possible whilst still cutting, then finished off with one XTG pass with a Fusion cart. A nice smooth, drama free shave. Definitely better than doing it the other way round; the iKon mowed it down well over 2 passes where the Fusion cart blades would have worn out a fair bit getting rid of all that. Only used the Fusion as I found a new cart in a draw after thinking I had none. Don't plan on regularly using one really, but I may use my WS Protector for the final pass & will probably try the new Gillette Skinguard 2 blade carts for same purpose when they appear in shops.

@Paul L not arranged to see the GP yet. Skin feels & looks better this week so will see how it goes in the coming weeks. Sticking to the same gear and only using blades I know suit my skin so onwards and upwards hopefully
 
Thanks for this. Last shave was after 3 days growth, and I tried your suggestion. Did 2 x WTG with the iKon OC, at as shallow an angle as possible whilst still cutting, then finished off with one XTG pass with a Fusion cart. A nice smooth, drama free shave. Definitely better than doing it the other way round; the iKon mowed it down well over 2 passes where the Fusion cart blades would have worn out a fair bit getting rid of all that. Only used the Fusion as I found a new cart in a draw after thinking I had none. Don't plan on regularly using one really, but I may use my WS Protector for the final pass & will probably try the new Gillette Skinguard 2 blade carts for same purpose when they appear in shops.

@Paul L not arranged to see the GP yet. Skin feels & looks better this week so will see how it goes in the coming weeks. Sticking to the same gear and only using blades I know suit my skin so onwards and upwards hopefully


Good on you Dave

Fingers crossed for you
 
Quick update, finally booked to see the GP in Jan. Would really like to get to the bottom of this if possible. I'll be relieved if they do tell me its some kind of bacterial infection (staph?) and prescribe me something to kill it off. If its not then hopefully they can recommend some cream etc that will help. Shaving every 2-3 days, doing just 2 x WTG passes with absolutely minimal pressure, so keeping it as gentle as I can in the meantime.

One thing I have really noticed is that hot water definitely irritates my face and makes any marks flare up. I cold water shave anyway, but when I step out of the shower, these marks from old scars, ingrowers, etc, become really prominent. That's before I've even shaved. They're still visible on a non-shaving day though to a lesser degree and can take a couple of hours to calm down post-shave depending on the combo of gear I've used and passes taken. On the plus side, I hardly ever get weepers / nicks so I must be doing something right. Will let you know how I get on in a few weeks.
 
Three passes? Completely unnecessary! Basically you're shaving yourself 3 times! One pass should be sufficient, two at the very most. I remember watching my father shave using a DE razor in the Seventies, he certainly didn't shave himself 3 times! Doubt many other men did either back in the day.
 
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