Lather Tutorial ~ Hard Soap

I leave quite a bit of water in my brush before swirling over a soap with very little pressure. When I move to build the lather in the bowl I then get very good results with little need to dip the brush for some more water. It really is trial and error because brushes vary in their water retention.
 
Trial and error indeed!
Different soaps have different characteristics so there is no "one" method that works with all products and all water.
Some prefer to start with a "dry-ish" soap and add water, some prefer to add water and let the lather thicken.
I mainly bowl lather and find that what works best for me is to soak the brush for a few minutes in warm water (never hot), then pull the brush out of the water and hold at a 45deg angle (neither straight up/down or sideways) then let the water drain (do not shake) until it stops dripping on its own. This leaves enough water to start lathering on the soap in a dish/bowl since there is still plenty of water. This works especially well for MWF in the ceramic dish since it is a thirsty soap.
You end up with a very wet slurry but working it in the bowl will let the lather develop into a yogurty glossy lather. If the lather remains too wet, I go back to the soap with the brush to pick up more product a little at a time.
So there are many ways, you just need to find what works. There are too many variables to have just "one" method.
The joy is in the journey of experience and discovery.
 
Can you help me out please, gents. I'm no Bill Gates & left clicking on the image shack thing achieves nothing. Right clicking opens up a thingy so I click view image and all I get is a toothpaste advert followed by some plum getting out of his pit. Do I soak it first then move the mouse in an anti-clockwise motion for 45 secs or what ? ;-)
 
Jel999 said:
Can you help me out please, gents. I'm no Bill Gates & left clicking on the image shack thing achieves nothing. Right clicking opens up a thingy so I click view image and all I get is a toothpaste advert followed by some plum getting out of his pit. Do I soak it first then move the mouse in an anti-clockwise motion for 45 secs or what ? ;-)

It's not you. The photos have been deleted.
 
New soap users tend to start with too much water and not enough soap so the tutorial is a back to basics grounding of building lather from scratch with a dry brush while slowly hydrating the lather, with practice you'll be doing it in no time, identifying any problems early and adding your own twist on proceedings. I need to update the tutorial but as you mentioned it, my routine starts by face lathering and then moving to the bowl to create more lather for the second pass...keeps everything warm civilised for the second pass.
Thanks for this thread and post. I was about to ditch soaps and return to creams but after a test lather loading for 45 secs (Tabac) with a drier brush and adding water a few drips at a time I now know I had too little soap and too much water hence running out of lather after 1 pass. Now I have enough to shave my whole body should I be so inclined (might finish off my blade stocks though!)
 
A friend gave me a hard soap that had puzzled me somewhat recently. It was the hardest I had ever used as regards getting a good lather and that baffled me as it has great ingredients including tallow. I then read some reviews and one stood out:

...it does lather quite well, the visual cues used to judge a soap's lather do not translate accurately with the GMS (Green Mountain Soap) soap. At first, the lather seems bubbly and airy. As outlined above, all of our editors reported poor performance at first use utilising their standard lathering technique. We all soon discovered that adding significantly more water than we were used to transformed the lather from a weak, airy dish-detergent looking lather into a thick, rich emulsion, resembling lathers from top-shelf products that we have become accustomed to, albeit without ever reaching the “meringue” stage that some look for. It seems noteworthy that the meringue stage of lather is reached with other high end soaps before adding a little water to improve the consistency (i.e., thin it out to make it better suited for shaving), and with GMS water is added to thicken up the soap. It is possible that the extra glycerin requires additional water, but that is only a supposition...

After some failed attempts I read the above and gave it one last 'Hail Mary' try. This time I let it 'bloom' for at least 15 mins. or better before lathering. I kept a steady flow of hot water into the bowl with the soap, albeit a trickle, while lathering for several minutes when it suddenly came to life. Never have I seen a soap so 'thirsty'!! :confused: It is however an extremely dense triple milled soap.
 
A friend gave me a hard soap that had puzzled me somewhat recently. It was the hardest I had ever used as regards getting a good lather and that baffled me as it has great ingredients including tallow. I then read some reviews and one stood out:



After some failed attempts I read the above and gave it one last 'Hail Mary' try. This time I let it 'bloom' for at least 15 mins. or better before lathering. I kept a steady flow of hot water into the bowl with the soap, albeit a trickle, while lathering for several minutes when it suddenly came to life. Never have I seen a soap so 'thirsty'!! :confused: It is however an extremely dense triple milled soap.

Always worthwhile bowl lathering a soap if finding difficulty in getting a good lather. adding more soap:water is easier this way not only to measure but to control. Loads of water is a good thing, as long as the lather doesn't get bubbly and start to collapse.
 
This thread was a huge help. I thought I was getting a good lather, but really, I may as well have been dabbing a bit of soap on my face and then pouring a bucket of water over my head. WAY too much fluid. Same with bowl lathers - WAY too much fluid. Another useful source is Nicks Shaves on YouTube, who has a range of useful videos for newbies on basic technique.

I had one of my best DE shaves ever this morning as a result. Parosa bowl lather, Perma-sharp blade (Day 2), and my £10 Shanghai Special DE razor. One tiny nick, but nothing significant at all.

Other good news was that Royal Mail have relocated my Gillette Tech and are delivering today. Although, I am currently somewhat preoccupied with slants at the moment. I am intrigued by the contrary views that they are either the strict preserve of the experienced shaver versus reviews that suggest with a bit of care, it's nothing to fear. I'm thinking that it will go on the Christmas list, giving me a chance to work up to it, and allowing time for the Minister for War & Finance to build the purchase into her Christmas shopping budget.
 
I guess every one is different. I bloom the puck and with a dry natural hair brush, let it soak up the water film on the puck. Then swirl the brush around the puck to load it with soap. Then face lather.
 
My foolproof method for lathering soap:

1.Dip brush in water.
2.Shake brush well till barely damp.
3.Brush soap in circular motion for a bit.
4. Wet face.
5.Lather up!


Blooming soaps is a nonsense.
 
So you've been lathering with creams and now you want to try some soap or you've got a soap puck and you're having trouble with it.
The idea is to get you into a consistent routine so you can get great lather time after time.

As you can see the brush is a cheap boar from WS and the bowl is glass without any surface texture (not recommended). Fill your sink with hot water leaving the brush and bowl to soak and add a tsp of water to sit on top of the puck to soften it. (>2 mins or go shower)

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In time you'll fiqure out what works best for your particular brush and soap but initially at least SQUEEZE hard and give two good SHAKES before soap loading. Then really load that brush, I spent a good 30 - 45 sec's doing this. If you're getting airy suds spilling from the puck at this point I would say your brush has too much water in it to begin with (more squeezing or shaking required). You can always add water later. If you are using a badger brush with softer hair bear in mind you may need to load for even longer but if in doubt overload your brush.

With a hard soap, especially triple milled you need to twirl and occasionally plunge the brush until you feel a paste forming on top of the puck, when you feel it "smearing" keep loading untill the hairs clump together with soap.

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I'm lathering in a bowl for the sake of the demo but I would recommend this method to start. You do get ultimate control.
Some like to pour the water sitting on top of the puck into the container, I didn't here but agitate for 30 sec's or so.

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I literally added a few drops of warm water by dipping my fingers and letting them drip in the bowl.
Agitated vigorously for 30 sec

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A few more drops and more agitation. Less visible air bubbles and you should be able to feel the lather become thicker.

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Okay almost there. Thick but not slick.(<2 mins)

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At this point you would transfer to your'e chops and work the lather more on face or in bowl.
For the demo I am going to lather on the hand for the final phase and I recommend you try this for yourself and you really get to feel the transformation from just thick to thick and slick. Work it for a while on the hand and you'll see.
As the lather "tightens" it becomes denser and and it visibly changes texture.
I would describe the lather as a cross between thick double cream and hand cream with a tacky texture, rub the lather between your finger tips to get a feel of the lather's "slipperiness", this is a good indication of the lubrication that a soap/lather can provide.

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I brushed the ceramic wall so you can see the composition of the lather.

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Thick and slick with minimum of visible air bubbles and in about 2 mins or so.

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There are many factors that affect the quality of lather but soaps can be much fussier than creams, spending 20 minutes practicing your technique will certainly save you time in the long run. You will also find that as you become more accustomed with the characteristics of your brush and soap you will naturally be able to produce the lather you desire in much less time.


Hope this helps.

WOW! That's the really good tutorial, I am looking forward for the cream version...
 
I'm retired but thankyou.
WOW! That's the really good tutorial, I am looking forward for the cream version...

There is one somewhere but I'm retired thanks. Shame the pics have disappeared but I'm not using a WS boar again, that is in semi-retirement as my coffee machine cleaning brush. ATB.
 
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I'm retired but thankyou.


There is one somewhere but I'm retired thanks. Shame the pics have disappeared but I'm not using a WS boar again, that is in semi-retirement as my coffee machine cleaning brush. ATB.

I threw mine in the trash. utter garbage imho.
 
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