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I have a Heljestrand SE on the way, with a 7-day set of blades and an autostropper. It feels like there's a LOT to learn.

One thing I've just realised is that occasionally those blades are going to need to be honed. From reading about straights, some people say about 6 months between hones. So with a 7 day set, is it reasonable to multiply that by 7, and say 3.5 years between hones?

Also, as a complete beginner, with no concept of what honing really involves, do you think I should attempt to learn, or is it better to buy something cheap to practice honing before ruining the 7-day set (assuming you can ruin a blade through honing)?
 
If the blades are in reasonable condition i.e. already sharp, then keeping them 'refreshed' on a finishing hone is probably the best option - something like a 10k or 12k grit rating or equivalent. Whether you go for a natural stone or synthetic will dictate the price you pay - and you must ensure it's kept flat, but that's easily achieved with a piece of glass or tile and wet and dry paper.

I'm assuming that you set will come with a honing 'stick' this is nothing more than an attachment that holds the blade - when honing razors the angle is pre-set by keeping spine and bevel on the hone. With my Heljestrand, I tape the blade holder (honing attachment) so that it doesn't wear with continued use.

I'm not sure about your calculation as I don't know whether a razor would last 6 months of daily use - but I suspect not. It's really hard to judge - because most straight razor enthusiasts have several razors in rotation. I find that if I haven't used a razor for a number of months, an extended stropping session will generally bring it to shave ready status, but occasionally a razor just doesn't get quite sharp enough. You can generally tell just with a thumb pad test.

As to whether you can ruin a blade by honing - well the answer has to be yes if you are heavy handed. Maybe it would be a good idea to get hold of a straight razor to practice on - and make sure you do some research by looking at videos. There may even be so specific to Heljestrand blades - I've never checked.
 
Greetings

I did not pick up on this thread at the time of your posting.

My view is this and I am talking as a true novice honer; refreshing a wedge blade or straight razor that has been properly honed in the first instance on a very fine modern stone like a Naniwa 12k, which is what I have is a piece of cake, setting the bevel or truing up a blade that has been forged on the skew/wonk or honed on the skew is something quite different and they are miles apart from each other.

Setting bevels and honing requires a great deal of skill and talent that I certainly do not have and will only be acquired with a great deal of practice, I have personally 'buggered' up a wedge blade it's not that hard to do but you are unlikely to do it with a gentle refresh or by stropping.

Regards
Dick.
 
Thank you everyone for your responses. I'm still waiting on my razor set to be delivered, so just researching at the moment. Once I see the set, I'll almost certainly have more questions :)
 
Thank you everyone for your responses. I'm still waiting on my razor set to be delivered, so just researching at the moment. Once I see the set, I'll almost certainly have more questions :)
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There are a Number of ways this can be done ..I have Lapping Film for honing which I am learning to use..Its probably the cheapest way & some say as good as good as anyway..Like stones it comes in different grades..o_O

Before you get into all this you need to feel what a Sharp Hollow Ground Feels like..You need a bench mark..Rob can do that for you to get you started..You don't need to get in to all this anyway as its not expensive to get them done periodically anyway..:eek:

This Guy here..Slash McCoy is where I got a lot of Intel..He got me into SE Hollow Ground Razors & Gold Dollar Straight's..Don't let this Video Fool You..This is a Master at work..He says Nothing..Just Burbs & Farts..:)

Billy
 
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