Help needed regarding honing

Beeko said:
Do you have a link for any of these please?
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Whetstone Sharpening Stone Plate Polishing Grinding Tool 1mm Thick (Honeycombed 1000#)
Or this one

www.toolsandtimber.co.uk

Veritas Glass Lapping Plate

Buy Veritas Glass Lapping Plate from G&S Specialist Timber. Free delivery on orders over £45. Excellent satisfaction ratings from customers like you.
www.toolsandtimber.co.uk www.toolsandtimber.co.uk
 
seveneighth said:
There are a few reasons why you might not be getting the results you want.

First of all, and sorry for asking this, is your stone perfectly flat? By this I mean, have you lapped it until there is no light showing between the honing surface and a straight edge. If you have have just drawn hatching and lapped that off, then it probably isn't flat. If you don't have a straight edge then use the hatching trick 3-4 times to be half sure. Please don't take offence to this question - just need to baseline materials before continuing.

Secondly, how are you using the hone? There are a number of videos out there that say "x number of strokes and you are done." That never works for me. I recommend this video:
He uses a Naniwa 12k but the grit rating is similar to the Shapton 16k grit rating so his method applies

Thirdly you might have some micro chipping. The video above deals with that. You need a cheap loupe to be sure. £4 from Ebay. I use something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30X-60X-...536330&hash=item2ad2745183:g:BxMAAOSwN9NdU3OH

Fourthly, the Shapton 16k produces a shave-ready edge, but it is pedestrian. If you are used to something a bit more lively you might want to follow with paste. Three options here:

1) Good quality CrOx, followed by good Quality FerOx. The Windrose stuff is pretty good from shaver's delight: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chromium...900075?hash=item3d1fd2976b:g:yCwAAOSwru1eEm8M
2) The Solingen crayons:
N.B. the Solingen red crayon is not FerOx but courser. So you either refine CrOx-->FerOx, or Solingen Red-->Black. If you don't have a spare strop to use for the pastes, newspaper spread flat on the side of a counter top is a great stropping medium with the paste very lightly applied to the paper.

3) Diamond Pastes: You will want 0.5 micron, 0.25, and if you really want to push it, 0.1 micron.

Obviously don't pollute your main strop with paste.

Don't bread knife the blade unless you want to start from scratch with a new bevel set. The only reason you might want to do that is is if you have an almighty chip in the edge. But that would be clearly obvious without a loupe.
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Seveneighth, can you jump from a shapton 12k to CrOx/FerOx/.25 diamond, or is that just too big a jump?
 
fatboy1971 said:
@seveneighth

Hey I'm a 50 year old engineer, with no qualifications, and I've only had 4 jobs so I learn fast , the hard way. I've taken a pic under macro and colour filter , this is the worse blade I own I'm trying to get a useable pic with my DSLR this is off the mobile

View attachment 54711
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looks like you have damage to the edge from rust. You will have to set a new bevel and then go up on your progression. Going with a high grit you can get there, but it will take a long time..
 
Beeko said:
Seveneighth, can you jump from a shapton 12k to CrOx/FerOx/.25 diamond, or is that just too big a jump?
Click to expand...
The jump to CrOx is fine. The rest of them are too fine a grit for that jump. 12k is about 1.5-2 micron. If you can go up to 14k it would be better, but not required. Just do more laps until the scratches from the 12k are gone...

feox is about 0.1 micron...
 
Move to CrOx is no problem. Be aware that CrOx can vary in micron size by supplier. It's best to check under a loupe to make sure it is improving on the finish.
 
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