Gillette Silver Blues

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I unwrapped my first ever GSB today and the wax/glue spots that hold the blade in the wrapper was on the blade edge.

I didn't shave with it because i wasn't sure how to deal with it.

Is there a method to remove this or do people just toss the blade? Maybe people ignore it and shave anyway?

Cheers all
 
I unwrapped my first ever GSB today and the wax/glue spots that hold the blade in the wrapper was on the blade edge.

I didn't shave with it because i wasn't sure how to deal with it.

Is there a method to remove this or do people just toss the blade? Maybe people ignore it and shave anyway?

Cheers all
A very careful wash with warm water. Some manufacturers, Feather in particular, are very bad for this.
 
No, not unlucky..that's normal for GSB's.
Well the 100 blades I bought look to be bathed in the stuff.
I have about 45-50 left so will see what they are like as I use them.
I am sure that all of them will be the same (sigh).
The damn stuff is so thick it's stuck all over the paper wrap too. What a sod that is just to get the paper off the blade.
Good blade though, worth the effort.
 
I ran it under hot water and it almost removed it, more like smudged it, rubbed it a bit with a tissue. I wasn't prepared to trudge 2 flights of stairs to the kettle for some boiling water so shaved as it was.

Shave was first class. I struggle to get some blades to allign in my Progress, the GSB was a pain to allign but the shave was excellent when I got there. Doubt the wax affected the allignment, it's just some brands are worse than others for me.
 
No, not unlucky..that's normal for GSB's.
Well the 100 blades I bought look to be bathed in the stuff.
I have about 45-50 left so will see what they are like as I use them.
I am sure that all of them will be the same (sigh).
The damn stuff is so thick it's stuck all over the paper wrap too. What a sod that is just to get the paper off the blade.
Good blade though, worth the effort.

Not all GSB's have 4 glue spots. The ones which are double wrapped, printed blades have them but they are NOS ones that some sellers still sell.

I bought some YourShaving recently and they were single wrapped, printed blades with 2 glue spots right in the middle of the blade.

I've read there are recent laser etched blades and I presume they also have 2 glue spots.

I'm not sure for certain, but I think the blades below are the recent laser etched ones, and I'm unbothered by glue spots but I think the newer laser etched blades from PPI might be a touch improved than their printed predecessors.

 
Not all GSB's have 4 glue spots. The ones which are double wrapped, printed blades have them but they are NOS ones that some sellers still sell.

I bought some YourShaving recently and they were single wrapped, printed blades with 2 glue spots right in the middle of the blade.

I've read there are recent laser etched blades and I presume they also have 2 glue spots.

I'm not sure for certain, but I think the blades below are the recent laser etched ones, and I'm unbothered by glue spots but I think the newer laser etched blades from PPI might be a touch improved than their printed predecessors.

That's interesting, thanks
 
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I had the same thing with GSB blades. I tried everything, a knife, a spackle blade, a file, a wood rasp, tied it to the bumper of my car with a piece of string and drove down a gravel road... Just as I was about to give up, I found an easy, sure-fire solution on-line: use a belt sander!

You'll need belts in several grits. A lot of guys start with 50, which is great if you're in a hurry, but otherwise use 80. Then progress to 120, and then finish off with 400.

There is also the problem of holding the blade. A pair of small vise-grip pliers will work, but you have to change holds to do the entire blade. Instead, get a piece of 2 X 4 (pine is okay) about 18 inches long, and nail the blade with the glue/wax spots facing up.

Regarding the type of nails, something with a wide head is preferred as the holes in the blade would allow the head of a common nail to slip through. Roofing nails will work as the head is quite large, but they are a bit soft, and may get groud away before the dots are removed. Most users report that drywall (sheet rock) nails are ideal as they have wider head than the common nail, albeit smaller than the roofing, and are made of a harder steel and last until the job is done.

If the blade becomes deformed when removing the nails, a few blows with a ball peen hammer on an anvil will quickly set it right.

P.S. Work safe! Wear safety glasses, a face shield, and heavy leather gloves.
 
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