Fragrance Terms

Chamomile

Chamomile (or camomile in British English) is the common name for several herbal plants of the Asteraceae family, typically having flowers with a compact yellow center and small white petals, and often confused with the daisy flower. The word 'chamomile' was derived via late Latin and French from the Greek word chamaimēlon, meaning 'earth apple' because of the apple-like scent of the plant that was noted by the ancient Greek Pliny the Elder. There are two species most commonly used in perfumery: German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla or M. recutica) and Roman chamomile (Anthemis nobilis or Chamaemelum nobile). German chamomile is also known as blue, wild, Hungarian chamomile, or scented mayweed. Roman chamomile is sometimes called English, sweet, 'true,' or garden chamomile or Whig Plant. Also used to a lesser extent is Moroccan chamomile (Cladanthus mixtus, known in perfumery as Ormenis multicaulis), which is unrelated botanically to the others.
AfHsAcK.jpg
H7NVvrl.jpg


Roman chamomile is native to the Middle East, Eastern Africa, and parts of Europe. It is mainly cultivated now in England, France, Germany, Belgium, Spain, Italy, and Morocco. Smaller crops are grown in the United States and parts of South America.
DQvAjaK.jpg
AvMg2sH.jpg


German or wild chamomile is native to Eastern Europe and Asia, and it is primarily grown commercially in France and Eastern Europe.
tWAJy7o.jpg
oz72OkN.jpg


Moroccan chamomile is native to the Mediterranean region, primarily in North Africa, and often has been considered a weed. It is grown in North Africa, Europe, and North America.
aHr77TT.jpg


Both Roman and German plants now grow wild in various parts of the world. Both have leaves with a scent reminiscent of apple or pineapple and have white, daisy-like flowers with yellow centers. Roman chamomile produces flowers in June and July in the Northern Hemisphere.

Chamomile Essential Oil
For essential oil production, the choice of the right harvest date is crucial for obtaining the highest oil concentration, which occurs when the florets become horizontal or point slightly downward.
253xcV4.jpg


The flowers are either plucked by hand or with simple devices such as pluck combs or rakes in small-scale harvests, but mechanical gathering is used in larger operations. When mechanical harvesting techniques are used, parts of the stalks are also taken and are separated later. This is done by hand, by double-walled counter-rotating drum screens, or a combination of both. In harvesting of chamomile for tea, in contrast, the whole plant is harvested with rotary choppers. Whichever gathering method is used, the harvest produce is dried, either naturally in the sun or under a roof or by rack or belt dryers, to reduce the water content from about 80% to 10-11% in order to prevent fermentation.
NdzLlqO.jpg
exngBDG.jpg
9BzXezi.jpg
AAZhrRm.jpg
ovLlQuK.jpg


Chamomile essential oil is extracted through steam distillation of the dried flowers, sometimes with a small amount of flower stalks included. Roman chamomile yields about 1.7% oil, and German chamomile produces about 0.2-0.4%.

German or wild chamomile essential oil is a deep blue color due to one of its constituents changing chemically during the distillation process, and the oil is medium viscous. The scent is sweetly smoky, floral, and herbaceous, with fruity, tobacco, animalic, and straw tones. It shines as a top note but also runs as a theme through a fragrance's heart and lingers into the drydown. Due to its high cost, it usually is found in a 3% jojoba blend. The absolute is even darker blue due to a higher concentration of chamazulene. More recent extraction methods, including CO2 superfluid extraction, produce an oil with a much lighter color. German chamomile oil is used more often as a flavoring agent in liquors and other beverages than in perfumery.
3aoB96z.jpg
puDvEQU.jpg


Roman chamomile essential oil is light yellow to clear, with low viscosity. It has a soft and delicate, but spicy, sweet, honey-like aroma with a hint of apple. It also is usually found in a 3% jojoba blend. It is somewhat unstable in perfumery, but it is included sometimes as a top or heart note in masculine fragrances, especially those of the chypre and fougere families. It was used more often in the past, especially in old classic perfumes. Roman chamomile is not often used for flavoring except as traditional chamomile tea, since the oil has a medicinal bitter taste.
vGhYuMx.jpg
JD7OA5K.jpg


Moroccan chamomile essential oil is yellow and has a fresh, herbal, aromatic scent with a camphorous nuance. It has a sweet balsamic undertone that is reminiscent of amber.

Chamomile Oil in Perfumery

Generally chamomile is classified in the herbaceous or aromatic family of scents. In light concentrations, chamomile essential oil has an apple-tinged, grassy-green character, but at full strength it is darker and dirtier, suggesting the smell of soil mixed with crumbled leaves, intense and a bit damp and woody, somewhat reminiscent of cocoa. It is sometimes used to boost and draw out the nuances of other ingredients, especially woods and incense. Chamomile add a warm touch to most fragrances. Both oils blend quite nicely with citrus notes (especially bergamot and grapefruit), florals (lavender, jasmine, geranium), tea tree, clary sage, ylang-ylang, patchouli, and musk. Chamomile also pairs really well with rose, its smoky bitterness giving a richer dimension to the sweet rose, while the rose tempers chamomile's herbal edge. It is also suited for darker, moody, decadent blends, such as Gucci by Gucci, where it adds luminosity and lightness. It is quite common now for perfumers to use blends of two or even all three of the chamomiles mentioned above in their fragrance compositions, varying the proportions for different effects.

History

Chamomile knowledge and use date back thousands of years. The first literary mention of it is from ancient Egypt, where it was included in shampoos, perfumes, and cosmetics, used to treat fever and skin ailments, and included in embalming oil mixes. It was used by the Greeks for a variety of purposes, including treatment of headaches and inflammation. Chamomile also was known to the Romans, who used it for incense and in beverages. (Ironically, the name 'Roman chamomile' does not come from this time, but rather from an arbitrary naming of the herb in the 19th century by a plant collector who happened to find some growing in the Roman Colosseum.) The plant was listed in the pharmacopoeia of Würtenberg as a carminative, painkiller, diuretic, and digestive aid. Joachim Camerarius was the first to name Chamaemelum nobile in 1598. Anglo Saxons considered chamomile to be one of the 'nine sacred herbs' and spread it on floors for scenting of ceremonies, as well as for healing illness. There is an entry about chamomile in the 11th century Old English ILllustrated Herbal, and Nicholas Culpepper's 17th century Complete Herbal has an illustration and several entries about 'chamomel.' Commercial cultivation of chamomile began in Europe in the 16th century.
3bplXXm.jpg
euCcnQE.jpg


In Europe, chamomile was used in making beer and ale before brewers turned to hops instead. Unlike for tea, in which only the flowers are used, the whole plant was used in the alcoholic beverages, adding a bitter flavor. Chamomile, especially the German one, has been used in many cultures for relaxing teas and tisanes. In Spain, chamomile is known as manzanilla, which means 'little apple,' and it is used to give Manzanilla sherry its floral notes.

Chamomile is used ornamentally in gardens and sometimes is planted on paths that are walked upon, which releases its unusual scent. Roman chamomile is a small evergreen perennial plant that grows low to the ground (up to 12 inches) and is often used as a ground cover. German chamomile, on the other hand, is a taller (24 inch) annual, propagated by seed planting or by letting the flower heads go to seed for the next year. Roman chamomile has larger flowers than the German variety. The plants often flower 2 or 3 times a year, allowing for multiple harvests. Moroccan chamomile is an annual bushy plant, and it blooms only during the rainy season. It is claimed that German and Roman chamomile plants improve the health of sickly garden plants when it is planted near them.
nH5i5Mh.jpg


Medicinal Use

Chamomile is reputed to reduce skin irritation and redness, promote wound healing, and treat and prevent acne. There have also been claims of its therapeutic benefits for hundred of years for a large number of other ailments. German chamomile is said to be the preferred oil for anti-inflammatory purposes, while Roman chamomile is claimed to have anti-rheumatic qualities. Controlled studies have demonstrated some possible antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-spasmodic properties, but experts disagree about whether or not there is much evidence of significant medicinal efficacy for any disorders; and the FDA has not approved chamomile for medical use. Chamomile oil and tea are said to have calming and soothing properties, relieving irritation and impatience and improving sleep quality. Herbalists generally say that the most effective use of chamomile via inhalation in aromatherapy, although it is also thought to be effective in bar soaps, oiled bath water, and lotions.

People who are allergic to ragweed (also in the daisy family and a very common allergen) may be allergic also to chamomile due to cross-reactivity, so they should watch for any signs of skin irritation from chamomile perfume products.

Masculine fragrances with significant chamomile:

Absolument Parfumeur La Treizième Note
Anucci Men
Cadillac for Men, Black, Lite
Calvin Klein Calvin, Eternity Summer
Dior Fahrenheit
Estiara Cheval (Green)
Farfalla Uomo, Vetiver
Francesco Smalto
Francis Kurkdjian Oud Silk Mood
Germaine Monteil Realm
Giorgio Armani White
Halston Catalyst
Harrods Bond No. 9
Houbigant Fougere Royale
Hugo Boss Baldessarini
Humiecki & Graef Skarb
IF Jeans Sorella Fontana
Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Mâle
Lancome Balafre, Belafre Brun
Maurer & Wirtz Tabac Original
O Boticario Uomini Sport
Oleg Cassini for Men
Ralph Lauren Polo, Polo Bear Edition
Rochas Monsieur Rochas
Tom Ford Extreme
Xerjoff Shooting Stars Oroville

There are many 'unisex' chamomile scents.
 
Aldehydes-Aldehydic

An aldehyde is an organic hydrocarbon chemical containing a terminal carbonyl functional group (-CH=O), consisting of a carbon, a hydrogen, and an oxygen atom. It is a highly reactive compound created by partial oxidation of a primary alcohol and is easily converted to a corresponding acid.
7V24rGY.jpg


Aldehydes can be derived from natural or synthetic materials. They are present in many natural substances, such as orange rind, rose petals, and cinnamon bark. The general name was coined by the German chemist Justus von Liebig as a contraction of the Latin alcohol dehydrogenatus, meaning 'alcohol without hydrogen.' The aldehyde group is sometimes called a formyl or methanoyl group. Other groups of organic compounds containing carbonyl groups include ketones and carboxylic acids.
UXXs2dk.jpg


In perfumery, the term aldehyde indicates a molecule containing a shorter (C6-C12) straight-chained (aliphatic) aldehyde. The scent of the aldehyde depends upon the alcohol from which it is produced. In perfume classification, aldehydes are often called the 'modern' group. The shortest (C1-C5), lower-weight aldehydes smell bad, most like rotten fruits, and are not used in scents. There are different types of scents associated with the carbonyl function, but the most common ones to which the term 'aldehydic' refers range from a somewhat sharp, crisp, and metallic character to slightly starchy, fatty, or creamy tone.
aLqsN4j.jpg
3a5KzHM.jpg
Hn63Hrt.jpg


The overall scent in perfumes is often described as having hints of flowers and/or citrus, or like freshly washed linens, with a tone that is both rich and light. They frequently are divided into a 'fatty' group, with powerful but pleasant smells that become citrusy with dilution, and a 'waxy' group that has more floral odors which become sweeter upon dilution, although some aldehydes have both properties. Green floral aldehydes give perfumes sharper, 'outdoor' notes, while woody floral aldehydes add tones of cedar, patchouli, or oak. Aldehydes have a distinctive waxy, 'soapy' smell similar to that of a blown-out candle. (The smell of candles actually is provided by the aldehydes, which are products of incomplete combustion of paraffin.) The aroma is quite strong and intense, becoming pleasant only when diluted down to 1% or less.
lIKjMa9.jpg

9SubeoD.jpg
vrfVIT1.jpg


Generally, an 'aldehydic' fragrance is one to which aldehydes have been added for their sparkling brilliance, vibrancy, and strong, incisive effect, usually with an exciting top note. They are said to 'move' when you smell them, not staying static. Aldehydes 'adapt' to the natural skin scent, enhancing other notes in a composition, and are used as modifiers as well as for their scent alone. Aldehydes have been used heavily in perfumery for a long time because of their low price, their intensity, and their ability to mask unpleasant tones of soap bases.

Aldehydes were first used in the 1905 edition of L.T. Piver's Rêve D'Or, by perfumer Louis Armingeat, then in Houbigant Quelques Fleurs in 1912 and Alphonse Rallet Bouquet de Catherine in 1913. One of the first 'aldehydic' fragrances using the chemical in a higher amount was the famous Chanel No. 5 launched in 1921, which had an unprecedented concentration of almost 1% aldehydes, primarily C10, C11, and C12. Coco Chanel's intention was to create a perfume that smelled like woman rather than like flowers, saying, "Women do not want to smell of a bed of rose." (It is said that Chanel's perfumer, Ernest Beaux, mistakenly added much more aldehyde than she had requested, but she loved the result and kept it.) No. 5 became so popular that many subsequent 'aldehydic fragrances' used the same combination. Although there is hardly a single fragrance now without some type of aldehyde in it, more recent ones usually do not contain aldehydes in large concentrations because that is perceived to be old-fashioned. Many people now prefer a closer-to-the-skin scent, more subtle and more politically correct.
NoRZLjr.jpg
gGYsohW.jpg
XTQeL7a.jpg

UaElVWj.jpg
RiLX040.jpg


The aldehydes most commonly used in perfumery and their scents:

C7 (heptanal) - sharp, herbal, green, grassy, slightly fruity, reminiscent of fresh outdoor breezes
C8 (octanal) - citrus, suggesting oranges, lemons, and orange peel
C9 (nonanal) - rose, with hints of rosewood, jasmine, and orange
C10 (decanal) - orange rind zest
C10 citral - citrus, especially lemon
C11 (undecanal) - bitter coriander, fresh, 'clean'
C12 (lauric dodecanal) - lilac, violet, with a touch of conifer
C13 (tridecanal) - grapefruit and grapefruit peel, waxy, soapy, slightly floral
C14 (gamma undecalactone) - peach
4oJcLO9.jpg
iDGehmh.jpg
itvveQ3.jpg
e8F2nsV.jpg
cHXZriC.jpg
pnknZ8j.jpg


Other aldehyde variants that are used:

strawberry glycidate - sweet strawberry, floral, honey
gamma nonalactone - sweet, creamy, buttery, hints of coconut
amylcinnamic aldehyde - jasmine
anisaldehyde - anise and a hint of hawthorn
benzaldehyde - almond
cinnamaldehyde - cinnamon
cuminic aldehyde - cumin
cyclamen aldehyde - cyclamen
furfural - almond
heliotropin - floral, similar to vanillin or cherry
hexanal (C6) - green and apple notes
hexylcinnamic aldehyde - jasmine
lilial - lily-of-the-valley, linden
mandarine aldehyde - mandarin orange, coriander
melonal (melon aldehyde) - melon, green, cucumber
Mircenal (citrus carbaldehyde) - floral, citrus, ozone
muscone - musk
phenylacetaldehyde - green narcissus, hyacinth
propanal (propionaldehyde) - sweet, fruity
triplal - green grass
vanillin (4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-banzaldehyde) - sweet, creamy vanilla

Aldehydes have been used in many versions of soaps and detergents to give them a 'fresh lemon scent,' especially Lux soaps. Aldehydes also are used for the manufacture of synthetic resins (e.g. bakelite), as well as dyes, flavorings, medications, and other chemicals. Some are used as preservatives and disinfenctants. Some critics complain that aldehydes can be toxic even in perfume concentrations, although research about this is contradictory.
Bjk43gt.jpg



Masculine fragrances with prominent aldehydes:

Adidas Active Bodies, Team Force
Adolfo Dominguez Agua Fresca Extreme
Alfred Sung
Amordad Beaumont White Gold
Aramis Anniversary Edition, Devin, Havana, Ice, JHL, New West
Azzaro Chrome Sport, Decibel
Baldessarini Cool Force Sport
Bvlgari
Calvin Klein CK One Red, Eternity
Cartier Must pour Homme
Chanel Allure Sport
Christian Dior Eau Sauvage, Fahrenheit 32
Coty Stetson Siera
Dana Wind Drift
Davidoff Echo
Daniel Hechter Caractere
Estee Lauder Intuition
Faberge Brut Identity
Faberlic Cruiser Turbo, Incognito
Farina Russisch Leder
Floris 1927
Gianfranco Ferre Lui
Giorgio Beverly Hills Giorgio, VIP
Givenchy Insense
Guerlain Heritage, Vetiver
Guy Laroche Horizon
Helena Rubinstein Men's Club
Hermes Equipage
Hugo Boss Cashmere Patchouli, Elements, Spirit
Jacques Bogart Force Majeure, Witness
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Airlines, Le Male Andre, Le Male Popeye, Le Male Superman
John Varvatos Dark Rebel Rider, Rock Volume One
Kanebo Eroica, Gilvan, HF, Hinotori, Valcan
Karl Lagerfeld Classic, Photo
Liz Claiborne Curve Chill
Maurer & Wirtz Tabac (Original)
Nautica
Nina Ricci Phileas
Oleg Cassini Reporter
Oscar de la Renta Oscaar pour Lui
Pal Zileri Lab i-White
Paloma Picasso Minotaure
Ralph Lauren Polo Black, Polo Sport, Safari
Rasasi Shaghaf
Rochas Eau de Rochas
Roja Madison
Royal Copenhagen
Salvador Dali Salvador
Valentino Vendetta
Versace Green Jeans
Weil
X-Bond Lion Gold
Yves St. Laurent Kouros, l'Homme Libre, l'Homme Sport, Rive Gauche, Y
 
Back
Top Bottom