Fragrance Terms

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Violet

Violet (Viola odorata), also called Sweet Violet, grows in the Mediterranean regions and Asia Minor. It is well known for its sweet floral scent. Violet flowers were used for many purposes in ancient times, including scenting wine in Athens. Their fragrance was the favorite of Napoleon Bonaparte, who preferred it over his wife's favored musk. In the 19th and early 20th centuries especially, violet-based perfumes became very popular, and this trend has persisted to some degree to the present.

The violet flower has a sweet, powdery, slightly spicy, woody-floral scent produced primarily by ionones (ketones derived from degradation of carotenoids), and to a lesser degree by terpenes (aromatic hydrocarbons present in a variety of plants). Ionones were first separated from Parma violets by Tiemann and Krüger in 1893, leading eventually to production of synthetic violet notes identical in scent to and much less expensive than the natural oil. The ionones were first used in perfumery in 1936 in Violettes de Toulouse. Methyl ionones, also used in perfumery, were discovered by Tiemann that same year. Violet flower absolute is still used in a few products, but its cost limits its use.

Ionones and methyl ionones (along with their analogues and derivatives such as irones, damascones, Iso E Super, Koavone, Timberol, and Georgywood) are ubiquitous and are used now in almost every perfume. The scent palette of ionones ranges from aromas of fresh violet flower in blossom to mild woody and sweet floral nuances. Methyl ionones possess a stronger woody character, similar to iris rhizomes. Irone alpha (6-methyl alpha ionone), somewhat woody and with a hint of raspberry, is the most popular of the ionones in pure form. Iraldeine, a base, is also used along with the ionones to recreate the violet flower scent. There are many different ionone and methyl ionone isomers that provide varying odor profiles. In addition to providing fragrance, these chemicals act as "blenders" in perfumes, adding harmony to other components, often functioning as a bridge between the middle and base notes in a composition.

The scent of violet leaves is different from and stronger than the scent of the flowers. The leaves display an intensively green aroma resembling that of freshly mown grass, combined with a hint of cucumber adn/or melon. In the South of France, two kinds of violets, Parma and Victoria, are cultivated now mainly for their leaves. The fresh scent of violet leaves is an integral component in many fragrance mixes, ranging from fresh floral and metallic to oriental spicy, earthy, and fougère green. Octin esters and methyl heptin carbonate are also used to provide the floral-green violet leaf note, especially in the fougère family and many modern masculine fragrances.

Unfortunately, the distinction between the violet flower scent and the leaf scent is not always clear in fragrance descriptions, and one sometimes must try a product to determine its violet character.

An interesting note about ionones is that the molecules quickly desensitize nasal odor receptors, so the violet smell of a perfume product appears to fade, an effect identical to that encountered with the smell of fresh violet flowers.

Examples of fragrance products with violet notes for men or for both sexes include:

Ultraviolet (Paco Rabanne)
April Violets (Yardley)
Violetta, Iris (Santa Maria Novella)
Change Man, Unique Man (Otto Kern)
Bois de Violette (Serge Lutens)
Violetta (Penhaligon's)
The Man Cobalt (Milton Lloyd)
Violette (Norma Kamali)
Vers la Violette (DSH Perfumes)
Red Man (Bi-es)
Uomo (Roberto Cavalli)
Violette (Jardin de France)
Hit Violet (Dzintars)
Violette du Czar (Oriza L. Legrand)
Ajaccio Violets (G.F. Trumper)
Celestial Violet Man (Nadia Z)
Violet Leaf (Nomaterra Brooklyn)
Violette (Molinard)
No. 7 Violette (Prada)
Violette a Sidney (Tonatto Profumi)
Royal Violets (Agustin Reyes)
Green Tea and Violet (Alvarez Gomez)
Violette Fumee (Mona de Orio)
Wisteria & Violet (Jo Malone)
Oud Violet Intense (Fragrance du Bois)
Violett Tabak (Ava Luxe)
Violet Musc (Ajmal)

 

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Myrrh


Myrrh is an aromatic gum resin produced by a small, thorny tree, Commiphora myrrha, that grows in shallow, rocky soil in Arabia and East Africa.

It is an oleoresin, a natural blend of essential oil and resin. Tapping to harvest the resin is done twice a year. For its harvest, incisions (taps) are made through the tree bark and into the sapwood, all the way up from the root to the highest branches strong enough to tolerate it. The tree bleeds the milky resin, which is yellowish and waxy, and it drips down the exterior bark. With exposure to air, it coagulates quickly into droplets or "tears."

After it dries in storage over a period of about 12 weeks, the gum becomes hard, reddish-brown, and glossy. It darkens as it ages, and white streaks appear. The globules, averaging about the size of a walnut, are then sorted and graded by the purchasing merchant.

Myrrh has been used for centuries as a perfume, incense, and medicine (for its antiseptic and sedative properties). In antiquity it was so highly prized that its value by weight was equal to that of gold. The oelo gum resins of a number of other Commiphora species, such as opoponax, balsam, bdellium, guggul, and bisabol, have been used in the same ways. Myrrh is mentioned in ancient Egyptian medical texts, and it was used with frankincense for embalming mixtures. The word mör or mur, from which myrrh is derived, means "bitter." The word probably comes from old Hebrew and Arabic. Myrrh has had great significance in various religions, and it has been used often in burned incense in cathedrals, thus creating for many people a lasting memory association.

Almost unscented in resin form, myrrh essential oil is extracted by steam distillation, and the absolute is made by alcohol extraction. Thus processed, myrrh has a warm, earthy, pungent, woody fragrance with an unusual, spicy 'latex' undertone, but it also is astringent, sharp, and slightly medicinal. It has been described as luminous and golden, like blend of sweet amber and pine sap. Some have said it has hints of mushrooms and licorice. Among perfumers, it has a reputation of being difficult or challenging, because it can smother other scents in a fragrance mix. But in a proper balance with other ingredients, it results in a sensual, deep, haunting character. The perfumer Calice Becker has noted that myrrh is for a perfumer like butter is for a chef, enriching other flavors. Perfumer Mandy Aftel described myrrh as smelling "warm and spicy, evolving into a sweet balsamic drydown, the last note you smell before the scent evaporates entirely."

The chemical constituents of myrrh are volatile oil, resin (myrrhin), gum, ash, salts, sulfates, benzoates, malates, and acetates of potassium. The two main aromatic factors in myrrh resin are isomers of C15H180, furanoeudesma-1,3-diene, a morphine analogue making up more than 40% of the total volume and giving it a bitter taste, and lindestrene at round 10% of the volume.

In perfumery, myrrh frequently is combined with frankincense, another resin, in compositions that often are termed 'incense fragrances.' It primarily is a base note, and it seems to work best in fragrances with coniferous, wood scents (cypress, pine, fir, etc.) in the top and middle notes because it sustains them nicely into the drydown. It complements well the brightness of oriental mixes, and it has been used very successfully in combination with licorice, vanilla, and black tea absolute.

Opoponax has a similar scent but smells somewhat sweeter, warmer, smokier, and more powdery. It often is called sweet myrrh.

Men's or unisex myrrh fragrances:

Czech & Speake Frankincense and Myrrh
Christian Dior Eau Sauvage, Bois d'Argent, Fahrenheit Absolute
Giorgio Armani Prive Myrrhe Impériale
Profumum Roma Ambra Aurea, Santalum, Olibanum, Oxiana
Fahrenheit Absolute
Ava Luxe Red Tara
Amber Precieux Ultime
Memoirs of a Trespasser
Lorenzo Villoresi Incensi
Bissoumine Souffle Sauvage
Halston Man Amber
Chanel Antaeus, Allure Pour Homme
Papillon Artisan Perfumes Anubis
Natur Milano Adorami
April Aromatics Calling All Angels
Gucci Envy for Men, Gucci Pour Homme II
Yves St. Laurent Vinyle
Amouage Memoir?, Interlude Man, Jubilation for Men
Guerlain Songe d'un Bois d'Ete, Vetiver
Robert Piguet Oud
James Heeley Eau Sacree
Messe de Minuit
Avon Mesmerize
L'Erbolario Myrrhae
Pecksniff Mistraal
Fragrance du Bois Oud Bleu Intense
Salvatore Ferragamo Terra Rossa
Acqua di Parma Note di Colonia III
Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin Eau de Parfum Intense
Keiko Mecheri Myrrh & Mervilles
Diptyque l'Eau Trois
Norma Kamali Incense
Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose
L`Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu
Sonoma Scent Studio Fireside
Annick Goutal Myrrhe Ardente
Prada No. 10 Myrrhe, Amber Pour Homme
Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose, Baume au Doge
Comme des Garcons Palisander, Incense Avignon
Paco Rabanne
Serge Lutens La Myrrhe, Ambre Sultan
L'Occitane en Provence Eau d'Iparie
Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui
von Eusersdorff Classic Myrrh
Calvin Klein Obsession for Men
Crabtree & Evelyn Moroccan Myrrh
Jil Sander Sander for Men
Molinard Homme I
Carven Le Vetiver
Huitieme Art Parfums Myrrhiad
Atkinsons Amber Empire

 

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Perfumer or 'Nose'

Perfumer

"To me, it is very important to have perfume in which it is hard to recognize a particular flower or scent. That gives a touch of mystery." - Isabella Rossellini

In perfumery, a person who mixes fragrance components to make a perfume is called a perfumer ('parfumeur createur' in French), or if notably creative, a 'nose' (although this term is now being used less often within the industry itself). The perfumer, both an artist and a technician, invents perfumes seated at his or her perfume organ, a miniature laboratory with raw materials, precision scales, small paper dipsticks, and other equipment.

Perfume Organs, Old and New

The aim of the perfumer is to use trial and error with experimental scent dosages to create an accord, a harmony of fragrances, much as one would create color harmony or a melody in music. In many ways the job is like that of flavorists who compose smells and added flavorants for commercial food products. In addition to being able to identify and blend scents, a perfumer must be able to consider issues like the stability of a scent after bottling, its interaction with other substances, and production costs, as well as for whom a product will be marketed and where geographically it will be sold. People of different economic and social classes, genders, ethnic backgrounds, and nationalities have widely differing scent preferences.

The composition of a perfume typically begins with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer, usually fashion houses or large corporations of various industries, providing the specifications for the desired perfume, sometimes based upon analysis of market strategies. The briefs often describe in poetic or abstract terms what the perfume should smell like or what feelings it should evoke in those who smell it, along with a maximum price of the perfume oil concentrate. The perfumer then blends multiple perfume mixtures for demonstration, sometimes with direction provided by a company supervisory panel or artistic director. This process typically takes several months to several years and may involve public surveys to help tailor the candidate formulations. If successful in "winning" the brief, the creator or employer then sells the selected perfume to the customer. The composition then either is used as a functional fragrance to enhance another product (shampoo, soap, makeup, detergent, automobile interior materials, etc.) or is marketed and sold directly to the public as a fine fragrance. Less often, a 'nose' simply is inspired artistically to create a new perfume and produces one for marketing; this is more common in smaller, independent perfume houses.

There are approximately 1000 perfumers in the world, but fewer than 50 of them are called 'noses,' those whose creativity and originality are such that they are able to launch completely new trends. A typical 'nose' can remember and recognize up to 3000 different smells. Development as a perfumer or a 'nose' requires both a natural aptitude for scent and extensive, specialized training, taking around 3 years for a general perfumer and for up to 7 or more years for a 'nose.' Schools of perfumery are a relatively recent development, with the first one (Givaudan) established in 1946 in Paris, and the next major ones in 1970s. The main school for this now is in Grasse, France, a region renowned for centuries for its perfume production, and nearly every 'nose' either is a native of Grasse or has worked in perfume making there.

Grasse Institute of Perfumery, GIP Student

Traditionally in the past, a perfumer would have trained as an apprentice, working with an experienced perfumer, often a family member, rather than undergoing formalized academic training. In addition to their training in the scent industry, modern 'noses' often pursue advanced degrees in chemistry, and many also study psychology, since it plays such an important role in perfume perceptions. Some universities have started to offer combined bachelor degree programs in perfumery and business, and students obtaining academic training sometimes are supported financially by major research funding agencies. A few perfume companies, such as Givaudan, now offer perfumer training to limited numbers of their employees who already have foundations in chemistry or pharmacy, usually with a contractual requirement that the employee remain with the company for a specified period of time after completing their training. Occasionally, individuals still start with a company as an entry level lab technician, blending materials according to the perfumer's formula, gradually becoming familiar with the raw materials and techniques, and proving to the senior perfumer that they have the requisite talent, interest, and drive, before embarking upon more advanced training.

Each of the major perfume companies, which develop over 99% of all new perfume products, including Mane, Firmenich, IFF, Fragrance Resources, Drom, Ungerer, Givaudan, Takasago, and Symrise, employs up to 3 or 4 'noses' and a larger number of perfumers. However, other 'noses' prefer to work independently, forming their own companies for the production and sale of fragrances to the companies, although this is not common. A very few 'noses' are capable of designing custom scents for specific individuals, a service only available to extremely wealthy people. Most elite 'noses' are assisted by large support staffs and apprentices.

There is some concern that the creative aspect of the perfumer art is in danger of disappearing, since computers are being used increasingly for formulation of new perfume compositions. Each perfume company has hundreds of thousands to millions of fragrance formulas in their data bases, and a single fragrance can create hundreds of new permutations. Thus it can be easier and cheaper to simply put into a computer program the relevant target information, have a composition created, and send it to a customer for evaluation.

 

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Metallic

Metallic notes are used in perfume products to suggest metals, especially iron, a cool, clean effect, fresh, sharp, and a bit sterile. They most often are used as subtle nuances, very rarely dominantly.

The source of a smell from an actual metal is found in skin lipids, which are oxidized through the action of oxidoreductases (a group of enzymes which catalyze the transfer of electrons from one molecule to another). In contact with skin, iron cations (Fe2+), along with the enzymes, decompose lipid peroxides, producing intensively smelling substances. For the same reason, blood has a characteristic metallic smell; iron contained in blood hemoglobin causes a similar reaction. (During evolution we developed a sensitivity to this smell; some predators can sense it miles away.) Scientists of Linkoping University in Sweden have identified the key component of the smell of blood, trans-4,5-Epoxy-(E)-2-decenal. Our sensitivity to this compound is extraordinary – it could even be sensed at a dilution of 0.07-0.3 parts per trillion. Similar compounds, trans-4,5-epoxy-(E)-2-octenal, trans-4,5-epoxy-(E)-2-nonenal, and trans-4,5-epoxy-(E)-2-undecenal, have a similar effect on our nasal receptors.

The substances which cause a metallic smell usually are 'bloody aldehydes,' unsaturated and often conjugated, and ketones. One of these, oct-1-en-3-one or amyl vinyl ketone, is most frequently used in the perfume lab. In its pure form, it has an earthy metallic smell with mushroom and vegetable nuances, with a sort of fishy note, similar to the smell sensed during preparation of freshly caught fish. The smell of unsaturated aldehydes is very common in nature. The smell of cilantro, for example, is produced by them. Some insects use similar substances as their protective chemical weapons. For example, the aldehydes (E)-2-Decenal and (E)-2-Octenal have been isolated in stink bug secretions.

In the perfumer's palette, there are a number of materials with a metallic character, depending upon the substnaces with which they are combined. Earthy, animalic, green, marine, and white flower groups especially have a metallic character at times. A metallic nuance is very prominent in rose oxide, a minor component of the well known rose smell. Geranium contains an even larger quantity of rose oxide, and geranium oil smells quite metallic during phases of its evolution on the skin. Some Comme des Garçons preparations, for example, have a high concentration of rose oxide. As a side note, rose oxide also adds a characteristic green-metallic note to the aroma of the white wine Gewürztraminer. And rose oxide has been isolated as a chemical defense in Aromia Moschata, a musk beetle.

Nitriles are another group of substances which smell somewhat metallic. Nitriles are quite stable and inert, and often used as odorants for bleaches and other household cleaning products. Nitriles are sometimes used for adding a specific metallic context to a perfume, such as in several creations by Antoine Lie, a perfumer at Tagkasago.

Some people sense a metallic nuance in lavender. In a classic fougère, a cool lavender often is paired with the metallic nuance of geranium, balanced with the warmth of coumarin and balsamic materials. In more modern fougères, such as Davidoff Cool Water, the metallic context is enhanced by additional dihydromyrcenol and allyl amyl glycolate. Synthetic iris notes are also used frequently to provide metallic tones to perfumes.

Fragrance notes that can produce a metallic tone include: Aldehydes, Amber, Ambergris, Berries, Birch Tar, Carnation, Cedar, Cinnamon, Clary Sage, Coriander, Cumin. Fig, Freesia, Galbanum, Gardenia, Ginger, Hay, Hazlenut, Heliotropin, Honey, Honeysuckle, Hyacinth, Incense, Iris, Jasmine, Lavender, Leather, Lily, Linden Blossom, Mimosa, Mint, Muguet, Musk, Oakmoss, Orange Blossom, Orris, Osmanthus, Oud, Patchouli, Pepper,Pine, Rose, Saffron, Sandalwood, Smoke, Spices, Tea, Tobacco, Tuberose, Vanilla, Vetiver, and Violet Leaf.

Examples of metallic perfume products for men:

Axe Cool Metal
Dina Cosmetics Dagger Metal
Givenchy Pi Metallic Collector
Guerlain Habit de Metal
Comme des Garçons series
Narciso Rodriguez for Him
Hermes Terre d'Hermes Metal Flacon
Varvatos Rock Volume One
Davidoff Cool Water
Karen Low Pure Metal for Men
Monika Klink Metal Mod
Myrurgia Yacht Man Metal
Neotantric Citric Metal Kamasutra
Hugo Boss Red for Men
Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet Liquid Metal for Men
Creed Acier Aluminium, Silver Mountain Water
Remy Marquis RM Metal
Torand Beverly Hills 90210 Metal Jeans Man
Versace Metal Jeans Men
Azzaro Chrome
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Lagerfeld Classic
Yardley Gentleman
Penhaligon's Sartorial
Givenchy Pi Metallic Collector
Jacques Bogart Silver Scent
Chanel Egoiste Platinum
Amouage Honour Man
Azzaro Silver Black

 

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Powdery

In perfumery, powdery refers to a sweet, dry, somewhat musky scent that produces a baby powder effect. It usually is created by the blending of a heavier sweet, mossy, or woody note with a lighter citrus, fruity, or green note. The powdery scent tone of Johnson's Baby Powder has relied on the combination of citrus, vanilla, and lavender, while that associated with other commercial baby products has mainly been produced by mixing vanilla and balsamic notes with geranium and ylang-ylang, similar to the taste effect of mixing vanilla with lemon in a sorbet. A very large variety of natural and synthetic sources give the feel of retro face powder or talcum powder. The soft, hazy, opaque sensation in pefumes usually has been imparted by the combination of iris/orris, vanilla, rose, heliotrope, violet, almond, and musk with amber, oakmoss, and other herbal and citrus notes, leaving an overall powdery impression after evaporation of the fresh and floral ingredients. However, more recent products have based their powdery effects on the use of ionones, synthetic white musks, and/or orange blossom.

Powdery can be a subcategory of "dry," but it can take on either drier nuances or sweeter ones depending upon the manipulations of the perfumer. Typically it hints somewhat at a traditional feminine smell rather than a masculine one, evoking images of fluffy, pastel fashion accoutrements. Usually the categorization of powdery is between "face powder" and "talcum (or baby) powder." Face powder notes are more refined and sophisticated and less sweet, with a vintage perfumey trail, while talcum powder overall is simpler, usually involving a comforting vanillic base that recalls Johnson's Baby Powder. The face powder type suggests a woman's boudoir and her private and sensual grooming rituals, while the baby powder variety produces a nostalgic, fresh, calm, safe feel.

Fragrances falling into the face powder group include Hermès 24 Faubourg, Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombre Rose, Chanel No.19, Patou Normandie, Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie, Balmain Jolie Madame, Jean Couturier Coriandre, and Carven Ma Griffe. Talcum or baby powder examples are Bvlgari Petits et Mamans, Donna Karan Cashmere Mist, Kenzo Flower, Lorenzo Villoressi Teint de Neige, and of course Demeter Baby Powder.

Fragrance components that most commonly lend a powdery effect are amber mixtures, opoponax gum (such as in Guerlain Shalimar), heliotropin, vanilla, and musks, especially the white varieties (Molinard Habanita, Cartier Must, Kenzo Amour, Calvin Klein Obsession, Serge Lutens Clair de Musc), orris/iris (Iris Poudre), certain aldehydes, Iso-E Super, and especially mosses (in Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Carven Ma Griffe, Chanel No.19, Estee Lauder Knowing, Jean Couturier Coriandre, and Piguet Bandit). Interestingly, ingredients lists of facial powders in compacts have included Evernia prunastri (oakmoss) for many years.

Powdery scents have comprised a major perfume trend for the past few years. Prominent examples of powdery fragrances for men or for both genders include:

Floïd Amber
English Leather
Dana Canoe for Men
Dior Homme
Lorenzo Villoresi Musk, Yerbamate, Teint de Neige
Bvlgari Blu pour Homme, Eau Parfumee au The Bleu
Fragonard Zizanie
Keiko Mecheri Loukoum
Comme des Garcons 2
Lagerfeld Classic
Royal Copenhagen
SMN Melograno, Muschio
Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur
Amouage Gold, Silver, Dia
Molinard Habanita
L'Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'Enfer, Bois Farine, Safran Troublant
Serge Lutens Arabie
Cartier Pasha
Agatha Brown Conquest
Five Star Fragrance Royal Secret
Geoffrey Beene Bowling Greene
Floris No. 89
Salvador Dali Laguna
Claude Montana Parfum d'Homme
YSL Kouros
Kenzo Summer
Helmut Lang
Cerruti Fair Play
Rive Gauche
Burberry Brit
Knize Ten
Escada Magnetism
Demeter Fragrance Baby Powder
Al-Rehab Balkis, Musk Al sheikh
The Crown Perfumery Co. Eau de Quinine
Prada Infusion d'Homme
Joubert Blue Waltz
Holland Park Royal Apothic
Mazzolari Alessandro
Nivea Eau de Toilette Nivea
Welton London Secret Amber
Mercurio Perfumes Droit à la Passion
Louis Cardin Sacred
L'Erbolario Ambraliquida
Narciso Rodriguez For Him
Gucci Guilty Intense pour Homme

 

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Galbanum

Galbanum is a gum resin, collected from several species of flowering Ferula plants, whose oil has a pungent, bitter, green, woody-resinous odor reminiscent of sliced green peppers and cut grass. It provides a "green" and somewhat earthy note to fragrance products. Galbanum frequently is mentioned as a top note, but its tenacity actually lingers in the heart and base. As it evolves on the skin, the initial acrid, peculiar scent is followed by a complex green, spicy tone, and then a woody-balsmic tone, after which it finally becomes more musky. It frequently is used in the creation of tobacco aromas. When employed as a base note, it usually is combined with musk, oakmoss, or pine. Traditionally it mainly has been used to give a natural green effect to floral accords, usually featuring hyacinth, gardenia, narcissus, iris, and violet, with which it pairs very well. Modern (post-1920s) "green" fragrances evoke the outdoors and nature much more than the sophisticated intimacy and animal density of more traditional chypres. Nevertheless, galbanum is also clearly present in many oriental blends, chypres, and fougeres as well. Galbanum resin also is prized for its fixative qualities; like other heavy molecules with low volatility, it anchors more ephemeral elements.

The Ferula plants from which galbanum is obtained originally grew in Mesopotamia and subsequently were exported to India, China, Israel, and Egypt. Today Iran and Turkey are the primary sources for galbanum. Galbanum also is produced in South Africa, Lebanon, southern Russia, and Afghanistan.

The oil, the form most widely used in perfumery, is steam-distilled from the resinoid - a thick, crumbling, yellowish to greenish-brown paste - which is exuded from wounds cut in the trunks and roots of the plants.

Initially the resin is earthy and peaty, but with dilution in alcohol the fruity-floral "bouquet" opens up, and one is reminded of crushed pine needles or pea pods with lemony overtones, fresh, vegetal, and sharp. The chemical constituents of galbanum are monoterpenes (a and ß pinene), sabinene, limonene, undecatriene and pyrazines. The pure oil, however, often is adulterated with pine oil, which may be why some batches of imports smell more of green, snapped pine needles than others. Perfume houses sometimes use additional steps beyond distillation to remove acrid sulfuric and terpenic notes when they are present.

The use of galbanum in perfumes is typified by Chanel No 19, Balmain Vent Vert, Guerlain Chamade, and Estée Lauder Aliage. It is also prominent in Robert Piguet Bandit, and it appears in Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Atelier Cologne Grand Néroli, and Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Modèle 2.

Galbanum also has been used as a medicinal ingredient, primarily as an anti-inflammatory agent, expectorant, and antiseptic, and as an antispasmodic for women during childbirth. In ancient Eypt it was burned in incense in religious ceremonies and was used in embalming processes.

Fragrances for men or both genders that feature galbanum include:

Penhaligon's Quercus
Creed Silver Mountain Water, Royal Oud, Cedre Blanc, Iris Tuberose
Czech & Speake Vétiver Vert
Hugo Boss Red
Ineke Hothouse Flower
L'Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier
Olfactive Studio Panorama, Still Life
Police Naked pour Homme
Versace Blue Jeans for Men
Hareer Anfasic Dokhoon
Pioneer Boadicea the Victorious
Lush Flower Market
Etienne Aigner Private Number
Pino Silvestre Green Generation
Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab Dragon's Eye
Tom Ford Vert de Fleur, Vert Bohème, Ombre de Hyacinth
Chanel Egoiste Platinum
Wax Poetic Ember
Jeanne Arthes Cobra pour Homme
Emper Bandit, Presidente Sports
Serge Lutens Bas de Soie, Borneo 1834
Maison Martin Margiela (untitled)
Comme des Garcons
Cartier Must pour Homme
Miller Harris Patchouli
Testa Maura Carticasi
Anglia Perfumery Park Royal
Vilhelm Parfumerie Morning Chess
Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Vetiver
Jequiti Aire
Aramis Devin
Phaedon Coton Egyptien
Ava Luxe Figuer
Fueguia 1833 Gálbano
O Boticario Uomini
Gap Established 1969
Esprit de Versailles for Him
Officina delle Essenze Caldo Encens
Swiss Arabian Shadha
Zoologist Macaque
Monsillage Eau de Céleri
Novaya Zarya Driver
Acqua di Stresa Dianthus
Prada No 8 Opopanax, Infusion d'Homme
Ralph Lauren Safari
Guepard for Man
Dina Cosmetics Imperial Silver Black
DSH Perfumes Adoration (Milan), Viridian
Renato Balestra Via Sistina 67 Homme
D.S. & Durga Sir
Laura Biagiotti Roma per Uomo
Azzaro Aqua Verde
Art Deco Perfumes Aventure
Anatole Lebreton l'Eau de Merzhin
Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles
Frederic Malle French Lover

 

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Salt

An emerging trend is perfumery is the use of salty effects. Salt in perfumery is a savory ozonic note that adds a marine and/or woody tone to compositions, reminiscent of briny/salty materials or environments. For most people they suggest a breezy ocean beach or, even more strongly, a tide pool.

Refined table salt is about 97% sodium chloride, and it is virtually scentless, but sea salts from different regions, such as Korean bamboo salt or Javanese lava salt, have impurities that give them a distinctive scent and can be evocative when used in a fragrance preparation. Salt is one of the basic taste sensations (sweetness, sourness, saltiness, bitterness, umami). Partially the translation of a taste experience such as salty into the odor realm of perfume is due to the interactions of olfactory and taste receptors. “The inherently close nature of our sense of taste and smell determines that food trends influence fragrance trends in some small measure,” says Erica Moore, fragrance evaluator at Fragrances of the World. “A salty note in a fragrance can do two things. It will impart saltiness but will also act as a modifier, subtly modifying the other notes to smooth off sweetness and reduce sharpness. In fragrance it works in a similar way to how it works in food." While food and fragrance trends do tend to synchronise, Erica notes that the salted scent category can also thank technological advances. “The emerging trend of salt's use in fragrance is really the result of developments in raw materials and creating the perceived effect of salt through aroma chemicals,” she says.

We've had aquatic perfumes since the 1990s (due mainly to Issey Miyake). “But brands and perfumers have only started to isolate and shine the light on the salty aspect recently,” says Erica, who notes that salt can give a fragrance a “solar quality.”

Salty perfumes essentially began in 2005 with Eau des Merveilles ("water of wonders"), an Hermès fragrance that was reputed to have used the last available batches of real ambergris and made them into a limpid, salty, woody alloy. This was followed in the spring of 2006 by Sel de Vetiver from The different Company, the olfactory rendition of dirty vetiver roots into a glass of marine water. Many said that it smells like an unwashed sailor. Composed by Celine Ellena, it includes notes of grapefruit, cardamom, Bourbon geranium, lovage, Haitian vetiver, patchouli, iris and ylang ylang. Apparently its inspiration was the "scent of salt drying on the skin after bathing in the sea." Then in the summer of 2006 came L de Lolita Lempicka, a fragrance that combined a salty aspect with the opulence of vanilla, tonka, and musks for an effect that is like "skin heated in the sun on a hot secluded beach on a mediterranean isle."

More recently a popular subtrend has been the combination of saltiness with sweetness. This is typified by the of the most popular compositions, Elixir des Merveilles, an homage to the original that incorporates a salty element into an oriental blend that includes notes of orange peel, caramel, biscuit accord (vanilla, tonka bean, and milk), sandalwood, incense, resins (balsams of Peru and Siam, oak, patchouli, cedar), and synthetic ambergris.

Amber perfume compositions usually have a salty undertone. Vetiver grass (Vetiveria zizanoides) tolerates highly saline soils and absorbs some salt into its roots, and vetiver oil present in many perfumes has an unmistakable salty nuance. A research study sponsored by Givaudan uncovered various types of ionones, molecules with a violet-like odor, in the aroma of some salts. And violet, somewhat of a chamelion in perfumery, can add a salty note when paired with certain other floral or fruity elements, such as in Annick Goutal Duel and Lez Nes The Unicorn Spell. Guérande's Fleur de Sel sea salt, which has a distinctive violet component, is hand harvested in salt marshes of South Brittany, and it is said to have inspired a number of perfumes.

Also available to perfumers is seaweed absolute in alcohol. Salty effects in perfumes need not be deliberate, and various mineral, marine and earthy notes can also produce a briny illusion, such as that in Parfum d'Empire Azemour les Orangers. Aroma chemicals able to do this include calone, floralozone, helional, melonal, ambroxan, phenylacetaldehyde, and diethyl acetals.

In addition to natural elements, perfumers also can employ methods such as ‘headspace' technology, using a process called molecular extraction (discussed in a previous thread entry) by which they can "read" the molecular make-up of almost anything that has an aroma (from fruits to fabrics to various environments). This allowed for one of the first synthetic salt-infused fragrances of recent times, 2010's Womanity by Thierry Mugler. Womanity was concocted this way, capturing the notes of fig and caviar.

The following are well known "salty" perfume products:

Acqua di Parma Marina Quercia, Blu Mediterraneo Quercia Marine
Creed Millesime Imperial, Erolfa, Green Irish Tweed (?)
Alan Cumming for Men
Hermès Eau de Merveilles, Voyage, l'Ambre des Merveilles, Hermessence Vanille Galante, Hermessence Epice Marine, Un Jardin Apres la Mousson
James Heeley Sel Marin, Cuir Pleine Fleur, Cedre Blanc
The Different Company Sel de Vetiver
Annick Goutal Vétiver for Men, Eau de Sud
Christian Dior Eau Sauvage
Rochas Reflets d'Eau Homme
L'Artisan Parfumeur Navegar (?), Batucada, Cote d'Amour
Il Profvmo Pioggia Salata
Nicolai Odalisque
Serge Lutens Arabie, Ambre Sultan, Vetiver Oriental, Bas de Soie, L'Eau Froide
Mona di Orio Eau Absolue
Frederic Malle Lys Mediterranee
Marc Jacobs Bang for Men
Le Labo Poivre 23 London
Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt
C.O. Bigelow Sea Salt Mimosa
Demeter Fragrance Salt Air, Kahala Hawaiian Surf, Saltwater Taffy
Les Liquides Imaginaires Saltus
Old Navy Sea Salt & Fig
Shay & Blue London Salt Caramel
Davidoff Cool Water Ocean
The Body Shop Oceanus
Calvin Klein Eternity for Men, Escape for Men, Summer for Men 2010
Issey L'Eau d'Issey for Men
Armani Acqua di Gio
Galimard Cosaque
Kenzo pour Homme
Comptoir Sud Pacifique Aqua Motu
Claudia Scattolini Marine
Guy Laroche Horizon
Chanel Allure Homme Sport
Nautica Voyage Sport, Oceans
Bvlgari Aqva pour Homme
Hugo Boss Elements Aqua
Burberry The Beat for Men, Brit for Men
Dsquared Ocean Wet Wood
Paco Rabanne Eau
Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise for Men
Bond No 9 Coney Island
Parfumerie Generale PG11 Harmatan Noir, Bois Naufrage, PG27 Limanakia
Carolina Herrera 212 Men
Lanvin l'Homme
Tom Ford Grey Vetiver
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Swimming in Lipari
Profumi del Forte Tirrenico
Guerlain Bois d'Armenie
Penhaligon's Blasted Heath
Franck Boclet Ozone
Acqua di Portofino Notte
Molinard Homme III
Laboratorio Olfattivo Salina
Creative Universe Beth Terry Mare
Outremer 1954 Special Edition - Oceane
L'Erbolario Nostos
Profumum Roma Acqua di Sale
Tommy Bahama St. Kitts for Men, Set Sail St. Barts for Men
Oriflame Flamboyant Prive, Ultimate
Art de Parfum Sea Foam
Hollister Wave for Him
Orlov Paris Sea of Light
Tiziana Terenzi Arethusa

 

[churchilllafemme]

Bay Rum

Bay rum is a distillate that is thought to have been made originally in St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands, and subsequently on other West Indian islands, from rum and the leaves and berries of the West Indian bay tree, Pimenta racemosa. Other ingredients of the cologne and aftershave products may include citrus and spice oils, most commonly lime oil and clove oil, along with alcohol and water. According to traditional recipes, the aromatic oils were steeped in alcohol, and then "good rum" (usually Jamaican) and spices were added. Bay rum has a distinctive woody, sweet, and spicy fragrance. It can be used year round but is most popular in the summer.

A common misconception is that the scent is based upon rum. In reality, it is primarily the West Indian bay leaf which gives it the unique scent, along with spices such as clove, cardamom, and cinnamon, with the rum playing a minor role. Modern bay rum usually does not even contain actual rum due to cosmetic standard regulation, and blended spices and other scents such as vanilla or honey are used to replace the original rum.

According to legend, sailors in the 16th century, who became quite odorous while being stuck on a ship for months at a time without bathing, discovered that the West Indian bay leaf could be rubbed on their skin to apply a patchouli-like scent that could partially mask their body odor. At about the same time, plantation slaves on the islands had found that molasses, a by-product of their sugar crop, could be fermented secretly into a sweet alcoholic beverage. When the plantation owners/molasses brewers found out about this, they then developed methods for distilling the beverage, removing impurities and making it many times stronger, thus creating rum. Other histories suggest that rum was first created on the island of Barbados or even earlier in Brazil.

Traditionally, islanders had used oil from bay leaves medicinally as a cooling treatment for aching joints and muscles and hot skin. One story is that they started to mix this oil with distilled rum to make a lotion. However, alternatively, it is said that sailors came up with the idea of steeping their bay leaves in what had quickly become their favorite drink, rum, to extract the essential oils and make a cologne that was easier to use and more effective for scenting their smelly skin. Whichever is true, subsequently the islanders built upon this basic recipe, adding their own flourishes with cloves, citrus rinds, and cinnamon.

From the West Indies the basic bay rum cologne spread to the rest of the world, first in New York and colonial America, then Britain, and then in Europe and elsewhere via the Royal Navy. In 1838, Danish chemist Albert Heinrich Riise became interested in the concoction and discovered that through a double distillation process and mixing of St. John Bay leaf oils and spices with fine Virgin Island rums, a unique and wonderful fragrance could be created. His invention was awarded the Centennial International Exposition Medal in 1876 in Philadelphia, as well as other awards. Riise then sold his bay rum commercially under the name A.H. Riise Apothecary.

The reputation of St. John bay leaf oils continued to grow, and in 1903 the first large commercial bay tree plantation was started at Cinnamon Bay, followed by others at Carolina Estate, Maho Bay, and Lameshur Bay. By the 1920s, bay rum had become an important Virgin Island export. In 1921, the national U.S. prohibition of alcohol stopped the legal importation of bay rum. But by adding aspirin to it, manufacturers such as Rexall were able to skirt prohibition, and word spread that drinking their somewhat toxic bay rum, which was 58% grain alcohol, not only made one feel good but also relieved aches and pains. Bay rum's popularity decreased somewhat during World War II, when cargo space on ships was reserved mainly for war efforts, but interest was renewed by the postwar fascination with island exotica, exemplified by the huge popularity of Rodgers and Hammerstein's musical "South Pacific." Bay rum's cosmetic use has grown again in recent years with the renaissance of traditional wet shaving.

Proprietary bay rum lotions are produced by labs in several West Indian countries, as well as by American and European fragrance companies that purchase the essential oil from island sources. These days, alcohol is still used to extract the complex bay leaf oils, but these are then distilled further under pressure into an essential oil. The specific gravity of the oil is tested by hydrometer, but purity is also gauged on clarity and smell by experts. A few distilleries use stainless steel vats, but most still use copper. This imparts a sediment to the oil, which must be allowed to settle and clear before the oil can be used.

One well-known modern example of a bay rum is Penhaligon's Bayolea, created by William Penhaligon by mixing the the basic bay rum formula, scented with lemon, lemongrass, vetiver, and spices, with glycerine, quinine tincture, and honey water. Taylor of Old Bond Street and G.F. Trumper have offered bay rums for over a hundred years, and St. John's Bay Rum and Royal Lyme Limited Bay Rum also have long traditions, while in just the past few years artisan producers of aftershaves have created an explosion of niche bay rum choices. However, overall commercial sales of bay rum oil have declined somewhat because of the increasing trend toward fragrance-free soaps and other cosmetic products.

The original bay rum by A.H. Riise of St. Thomas continues to be produced in the U.S. Virgin Islands by the West Indies Bay Company. With its unique climate and exceptionally rich soil, the island of St. John has provided an ideal place for bay trees to thrive, and St. John bay leaf oils have maintained a worldwide reputation of being distinctive and superior. The West Indian bay tree, Pimenta racemosa, is a sturdy evergreen shrub or tree of the Myrtle family. When allowed to grow free, the tree can reach 80 feet in height, but when used for oil production it is kept at about 12 feet tall to allow easy harvesting.

Leaves are typically a shiny blue green and are strongly scented when crushed, and the flowers, bark, and berries are also fragrant. There are three varieties of bay leaves: common, anise scented, and citronella scented, which can be distinguished easily by smelling their crushed leaves. All can be used to produced fragrant oils, but nearly exclusive use is made of the common bay for commercial bay rum production. Myrtle was considered sacred by the ancient Greeks and was used in their festivals, and myrtle varieties have been used for centuries in perfumery. The local West Indian patois name for the bay tree is "bwa den," derived from the French "bois d'Inde" (tree from India), reflecting its original Asian origin before introduction to the Western Hemisphere.

A close relative of the bay tree is the pimento tree, whose seeds are known as "allspice." The bay laurel, source of the "bay leaves" used commonly in cooking, is from a completely unrelated species, Laurus nobilis. Bay laurel can be used to produce a similar fragrant lotion but is not commonly used in that way.

 

[BJS]

Very interesting read, thank you..

 

[churchilllafemme]

Fragrance Classification and Fragrance Wheels

In perfumery there have been four main fragrance categories traditionally: Fresh, Floral, Oriental, and Woody. Within these four main groups fall generally accepted families; and beyond these are numerous combinations of notes that blur the lines of distinction.

The original classification of fragrances, which emerged around 1900, consisted of 7 entities:

•Single floral: dominated by a scent from one particular flower, in French called a soliflore.
•Floral bouquet: containing a combination of several flowers in a scent.
•Ambery or oriental: sweet, spicy, and exotic, featuring vanilla and animal scents together with flowers, woods, and spices such as cardamom and clove, sometimes enhanced by camphoraceous oils and incense resins.
•Woody: dominated by wood scents, typically of sandalwood, oak, and cedar. Patchouli is commonly found in these perfumes.
•Leather: featuring the scents of honey, tobacco, wood and wood tars in the middle or base notes and suggesting leather items.
•Chypre: fragrances built on an accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. Named after a perfume by Francois Coty.
•Fougère: having a base of lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss and characterized by a sharp herbaceous and woody scent.

Since 1945, due to technological advances in compound design and synthesis and to style evolution, additional categories of scents have emerged:
•Bright floral: combining the traditional Single floral and floral bouquet categories.
•Green: a lighter and more modern interpretation of the chypre type.
•Oceanic/Aquatic/Ozone: the newest category, appearing in 1991, a clean, modern smell invoking the sea or the smell of rain, and leading to many of the modern androgynous perfumes.
•Citrus or Fruity: a very old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes due to the low tenacity of natural citrus scents such as lemon, orange, bergamot, grapefruit, and mandarin. Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of stabel primarily citrus fragrances.
•Gourmand: scents with "edible" or "dessert"-like qualities, often containing notes like vanilla and tonka bean, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble food flavors.

However, there is not a complete consensus, and according to some experts, there should be eight major families: four feminine ones (Chypre, Floral, feminine Citrus, and feminine Oriental) and four masculine ones (Aromatic, Woody, masculine Citrus, and masculine Oriental).


Fragrance Wheel

The Fragrance wheel (or aroma wheel, fragrance circle, perfume wheel) is a relatively new classification method that is widely used in the fragrance industry. It is represented by a round diagram. The method was first used in 1949 by Austrian perfumer Paul Jellinek and was titled the Odor Effects Diagram:

Subsequently U. Harder at Haarman & Reimer and others developed several variations of the Fragrance Circle. And in 1983 Michael Edwards, a consultant in the perfume industry, designed his own scheme of fragrance classification after being inspired by a fragrance seminar by Firmenich. Since its creation, Edwards' wheel has been modified several times, and it is the most widely used model.

The wheel scheme first was created in order to simplify fragrance classification and naming on a logical basis, as well as to show the relationships between individual classes, based upon odor similarities and differences, which previous classifications had overlooked.

The five standard families on most wheels now consist of Floral, Oriental, Woody, Fougère, and Fresh, with the first four families being the more "classic" ones, while the Fresh category consists of newer, bright and clean-smelling citrus and oceanic fragrances that have arrived due to improvements in fragrance technology. With the exception of the Fougères, each of the families is in turn usually divided into three sub-groups and arranged around a wheel:

1. Floral

1.Floral - notes of fresh-cut flowers
2.Soft Floral - aldehydes and powdery notes
3.Floral Oriental - main notes of orange blossom and sweet spices

2. Oriental

1.Soft Oriental - incense and amber
2.Oriental - vanilla and oriental resins such as frankincense
3.Woody Oriental - sandalwood and patchouli

3. Woody

1.Woods (added 2008) - aromatic woods and vetiver
2.Mossy Woods - oakmoss and amber
3.Dry Woods - dry woods and leather

4. Fresh

1.Citrus - bergamot and citrus oils
2.Green - galbanum and green notes
3.Water (Oceanic/Aquatic) - marine and aquatic notes, especially from calone
(4.Fruity - added 2008) - berries and other non-citrus fruits

5. Aromatic/Fougère


The idea is that the wheel represents the circular continuum of fragrances which humans can perceive, with each group blending into and overlapping with its two neighbors, with implied common olfactory characteristics. For instance Floral Oriental scents consist of a mingling of florals with sweet and spicy notes, while the adjacent Soft Oriental group frequently includes a slight flowery touch.

Until recently, the Fougère family was placed at the center of the wheel since it takes fragrance elements from the other four families, citrus from the Fresh, oakmoss and woods from Woody, coumarin and incense from Oriental, and lavender from Floral. This is shown in the 1983 wheel:

With a further modification in 2010, the Aromatics/Fougère group was moved to a space between Dry Woods and Citrus to synchronize the chart with newer studies of smell perception, and in some charts it actually is included under the Woody class. The 2010 Edwards chart:

In order to differentiate further, some experts have divided each of a family's subclasses in turn into Fresh, Crisp, Classical, or Rich compositions, while others have simply divided a subclass further into the individual scents themselves.

As a class, Chypres is more difficult to place since it usually would be located under parts of the Oriental and Woody families. For instance, Guerlain Mitsouko, which is classically identified as a Chypre, would be placed under Mossy Woods, but Hermès Rouge, a Chypre with a more floral character, would be put under Floral Oriental. Attempts have been made to incorporate the Chypres into a chart scheme, such as that of the Lebermuth Company, which sets it between the Fougères and the Camphoraceous (eucalyptus, rosemary, and pine), in addition to showing the presumed relationships of individual scents:

Another wheel example is that of the Chemia Corporation, which divides fragrances into different groups based upon their somewhat subjective predominant character, including "foodlike" ones, as shown here:

Still another chart which differentiates more is the Atelier wheel:

And the Drom Fragrance Circle further subjectively aligns scents with gender:

A more recent chart, outlining aromachemical relationships rather than smell perceptions, is the non-circular Givaudan Scent Ingredients Map:

And finally, some constructs attempt to express the recently well-described connection and cross-sensory interrelationship between the senses of smell and taste, such as the Aromaster chart:

Despite these attempts at classification, individual perfume products often remain difficult to characterize objectively. Fragrances may share notes, accords, or other characteristics, but each perfume is an individual entity with unique notes. Because of this uniqueness, a perfume can be seen to fall into more than one category of fragrance, especially since it will have a different smell on one person than on someone else and will vary in its overall personality with body chemistry changes and with the passage of time.

 

[churchilllafemme]

Fougère

I noticed recently that some of my fougère shaving products were getting low or close to being finished, and that got me thinking about this family of fragrances, their character and variations, and their history. So I researched them a bit.

The name for this type of scent comes from the French word for fern, and the profile typically has a primary note reminiscent of a shadowy rainforest's flora. The name originated with Houbigant Parfum's Fougère Royale, created in 1882 by owner and perfumer Paul Parquet. Houbigant is an old and renowned French perfume house, established in 1775 and famous for creating fragrances for members of royal families; it was said to be a favorite of Queen Marie Antoinette. The association of the fougère scent with ferns often has been called an imaginary one, since fern plants supposedly have no scent. However, a few people have claimed that damp ferns actually do have a smell somewhat like loamy earth and hay and suggesting the presence of pine balsam and other wet foliage, and that the smell varies depending upon the species of fern.

Fougère Royale was the first fragrance that included a synthetic component, the chemical compound coumarin, which was created from coal tar. Coumarin had been discovered in 1868 by the English chemist Henry Perkion. Blended with lavender and oakmoss, it creates the woody base for fougère fragrances. Coumarin can be found in nature in some plants such as sweet clover, bison grass, woodruff, lavender, and South American tonka bean. Its name comes from the French word 'coumaru,' which means 'Tonka bean.' Perfumers claim that it is present in concentrations exceeding 1% in about half of the world's fragrances and appears in 90% of them.

Parquet at first devoted the Fougère Royale fragrance to women; but since it subsequently was primarily purchased and used by men, especially the dandies of the time, his classification and marketing of it changed. It had an overall note that captured at the time the imagination of Western Europeans who were in search of pathways for recalling nature in an increasingly urbanized and industrial landscape. Since that time the majority of fragrances in the category have been for men, with the Chypre family its feminine counterpart. Because it included for the first time a synthetic factor, Fougère Royale set a precedent that opened up the world of scents, previously consisting of simple 'natural' products, to the creative imaginations of perfumers. Production of Fougère Royale was stopped in 1950, although unsuccessful attempts to recreate and update it were undertaken in 1959 and 1988. Under the ownership of the Dana Company, Houbigant re-introduced the fragrance in 2010, changed somewhat due to decreased ingredient availability and health regulations.

The fougère family usually is included in the broad green category of scents. These products are usually based for the most part on 'natural themes' that smell like plants, leaves, and grasses. The green factors provide bright, strong accents that can be found as top or middle notes in compositions. Fougère perfumes almost invariably feature lavender as a sweet top note, along with geranium, bergamot (for brightness), oakmoss (for woodiness and further sweetness), and coumarin (for freshness). Although the family has evolved dramatically over the past century, it has maintained its basic accord and multifaceted quality. Modern fougère creations often have various citrus, herbaceous, floral, and animalic notes added. Common additions include vetiver, galbanum, amber, sandalwood, guaiac wood, rosemary, sage, and other herbs. Fougère subclasses, building upon the same basic skeleton, include Citrus, Woody, Leather, Aquatic, Green, Fruity, Spicy, and Aromatic Fougères. Over time fougère fragrances fell out of favor, but more recently they have enjoyed a resurgence in popularity, with modern perfumers adding new twists to the classic combination. Generally they remain herbacious and are characterized by a tobacco-like warmth, a fierce aromatic intensity with an almost 'bitter' character, and a dry, grassy and hay-like drydown. Clean and fresh, they are quite versatile and can be worn on a wide variety of occasions.

Examples of men's fragrances which fall into the fougère class include Brut by Fabergé, Paco Rabanne pour Homme, Azzaro pour Homme, Boss by Hugo Boss, Prada for Men, Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein, Canoe for Men by Dana, Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme, Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche, Tabac for Men, Michael for Men by Michael Kors, Davidoff Cool Water, Penhaligon's Sartorial, Clubman Pinaud and Special Reserve, Polo Blue and Chaps by Ralph Lauren, and Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent.

 

[churchilllafemme]

Patchouli

Back in my hippie days in the late 1960s, when I was completely ignorant about fragrances, I thought that patchouli was some type of herb and spice blend, sort of like a potpourri. For many people my age who grew up in the sixties, it was the smell of headshops, where it apparently was used sometimes to mask the smell of marijuana. It was supposed to have been brought to Western markets by backpackers on the 'Hippie Trail' through India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Iran. Its distinctive earthy scent appealed to the back-to-the-earthers of the time. In the movie High Fidelity, John Cusack yells, "Get your patchouli stink out of my store!" at the bohemian Tim Robbins. Patchouli really was ubiquitous then, and because of its strong, overwhelming scent seemingly everywhere, I eventually grew to dislike it. (In addition, a lot of the patchouli used in the 1960s was low quality.) However, more recently I have begun to really appreciate its presence in shaving and cosmetic products.

Patchouli (from the Tamil pachai, pachilai, or pacculi, meaning 'green leaf;' or Hindi pacholi, 'to scent') is a species of the aromatic family Lamiaceae, commonly called the mint or deadnettle family. It grows as a perennial bushy shrub, with strong upright stems reaching a height of around 3 feet and bearing soft, hairy leaves and small, pale, pink-purple to white flowers. It grows well in warm to tropical climates, thriving in hot weather but not direct sunlight. The flowers produce seeds, but the plants are commonly propagated from cuttings. The seed-producing flowers are quite fragrant and blossom in late fall.

It grows wild in Sumatra and Java at higher elevations (3,000-6,000 feet). Pogostemon cablin and other pogostemons are all cultivated for their essential oil. Patchouli is generally considered a Bengali Indian herb, but it also is native to Malaysia and possibly the Phillippines. Today about 90% of patchouli oil comes from Indonesia, with significant amounts also coming from China, India, Malaysia, Singapore, Vietnam, and West Africa. Smaller crops are grown in the Philippines, Taiwan, Japan, Thailand, Cambodia, Myanmar, Madagascar, and Pakistan, and in areas of South America and the Caribbean.

As with many plants, traditional uses of patchouli date back thousands of years. Egypt's King Tutankhamun is reputed to have had 10 gallons of patchouli oil buried with him in his tomb, and the Romans used it as an appetite stimulant. It is recorded as being grown in China by the 5th century BCE, although this may have been different but similar plant. It was introduced to commercial Indian growth in 1834, and it eventually arrived in the Middle East along the silk trading routes, and then subsequently in Europe and England. During the Victorian era the leaves were folded into cashmere shawls and packed along with spices, silks, carpets, and other treasures shipped from British-colonized India and Malaysia, in order for its insect-repellant properties to protect the items from moths and other pests. The scent of patchouli permeated the fabrics during transport, adding a layer of exotic allure. Eventually the scent became a sign of 'Oriental' authenticity, and customers sometimes refused to buy unscented shawls; unscrupulous producers of unauthentic shawls layered them with patchouli leaves, allowing them to be passed off as genuine. Empress Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III, was among the first in 19th century Europe to favor shawls for their protection against chills without the beauty of her gowns. Soon patchouli-scented shawls became fashionable in France, paralleling the rise of patchouli as a Western fragrance ingredient. Its use in perfumery has increased since that time, although recently it has fallen out of favor somewhat.

The leaves of the patchouli plant produce the essential oil in hair-like glanduar trichomes. The leaves are harvested by hand two or three times per year, with the best oil derived from leaves harvested in the wet season. A few sources have claimed that the highest quality patchouli oil is produced from fresh, undried leaves distilled immediately and close to where they are harvested, like the leaves of other aromatic plants such as mint or eucalyptus. But traditionally, patchouli leaves have been fermented/dried first. They are bundled or baled and allowed to dry partially and ferment for a few days in the shade to soften the cell walls before being dried further. The topmost mature leaves are then placed on bamboo mats in direct sunlight, with the leaves not touching one another. They are frequently checked, turned over, and moved slightly to prevent molding or drying too quickly and becoming crumbly. Once they are determined by observation to be ready, they are placed in a still for steam distillation, with a volume yield of about 3.5%. When first extracted, the essential oil is slightly viscous and has an orange hue. The oil often is aged, with the color and viscosity deepening and the olfactory profile changing so that the earthier, darker notes emerge. Patchouli oil also is now becoming available as a CO2 extract in limited quantities.

The two main natural chemical components of patcholi oil are patchoulol (25-35%), a sesquiterpene alcohol, and norpatchoulenol, a tricyclic terpenoid. Despite the ease and low cost of its production, agricultural methods result in unreliable, inconsistent, or unsustainable quality and supply, and there are synthetic patchoulis now being developed and produced. The synthetic biology pioneer Amyris and Firmenich, the largest flavor and fragrance company, have developed a novel bioprocess for making large volumes of quality patchouli oil from yeast. The synthetically altered microorganisms produce patchoulol, patchouli's key component, at a facility in Brotas, Brazil. The agricultural approach takes 6 months from planting to harvest, not including drying and extraction, while the manufacturing process results in high-quality oil in about 2 weeks. Supply chain problems are mitigated, but small farmers in the agricultural countries inevitably will be affected.

Patchouli is sweet and spicy, with an intense, musty, woody aroma that is reminiscent of wet soil. It contains the same dark, rich, earthy tone element that is present in vetiver. Its structure consists of sweet herbaceous top notes, a rich winey heart, and a balsamic woody base. Because of its association with dirt and drug use, and the contemporary preference for 'fresh,' simpler compounds, modern patchouli often is altered molecularly to remove the less desirable musty components. The oil still is very popular in perfume blends, especially the contemporary woody floral musks. It is especially complementary to vanilla and other sweet scents, and it mixes well with other essential oils, including vetiver, sandalwood, frankincense, bergamot, cedarwood, jasmine, rose, and citrus oils. Patchouli often is used as a base note in chypre, oriental, and powdery fragrances, pairing with the sweetness of bergamot, lavender, and rose and the smoothness of sandalwood. It is present in nearly all blends bearing a reference of any kind to India. It is sometimes thought to be too overwhelmingly earthy and heavy for haute perfumerie, but it actually is a basic building block of many of the genres. It also is valuable as a fixative, slowing the evaporation of other more volatile oils and thus extending the fragrance life of other perfume ingredients.

In addition to its use in perfumery, patchouli is widely added as an ingredient in modern scented industrial products, including paper towels, laundry detergents, and air fresheners. More traditionally, patchouli has been used in East Indian incense, in insect repellants, and as a medicinal ingredient to treat skin disease (inflammation, eczema, acne, chapping, dandruff, and scars), headaches, colic, muscle spasms, infections, insect and snake bites, and anxiety and depression. The leaves have been used to make herbal tea, and in some cultures they are eaten as a vegetable or used as a seasoning. The Chinese, Japanese, and Arabs have believed it to possess aphrodisiac properties.

In aromatherapy, patchouli is considered a grounding and balancing element, soothing and relaxing yet stimulating, and particularly relevant for conditions of weak immunity or other weakened states. It is said to bring the three principal forces within the body - Creative at the navel, the Heart center, and transcendental Wisdom at the crown - into harmony. The aroma of the oil is thought to relieve the strain of those with excessive mental activity, who feel 'out of touch' with their body, and is reputed to be helpful for impotence, frigidity, and lack of sensuality.

And in probably its least traditional use, Mattel employed patchouli oil in 1985 in the plastic used to produce the action figure Stinkor in the Masters of the Universe line of toys.

Well know fragrances dominated by patchouli:
Byblos Patchouly
Caswell-Massey Aura of Patchouli
Etro Patchouly
Gobin Daudé Jardins Ottomans
Jalaine Patchouli
L'Artisan Voleur de Roses
Lorenzo Villoresi Novella Patchouli
Lush Karma
Mazzolari Patchouly
Molinard Patchouli
Montale Patchouli Leaves
Santa Maria Novella Patchouli
Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Fragrances with a patchouli component:
Arquiste Misfit
Azzaro pour Homme
Balenciaga Homme
Bath House Patchouli & Black Pepper
Bond No. 9 Bleecker Street
Byredo Velvet Haze
Christian Dior Patchouli Impérial
Crabtree & Evelyn Patchouli
D.S. & Durga Amber Kiso
Diptyque Tempo
Fragonard Zizanie
Frederic M Une Vie en Or pour Homme
Givenchy Gentleman
Givenchy Patchouli de Minuit
Guerlain L'Instant pour Homme
Henry Rose Dark is Night
Hugo Boss Cashmere & Patchouli
Lalique Eau de Lalique
Miller Harris Terre de Bois
Paul Sebastian Kinetic Male
Rochas Lui
Roger & Gallet L'Homme Patchouli
Saint Charles Shave Patchouli
Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque
Serge Lutens Un Bois Sepia
Thierry Mugler A*Men
Tom Ford Patchouli Absolu
Yves St. Laurent Rive Gauche pour Homme
Yves St. Laurent Kouros

 

[RussellR5555]

Patchouli

Back in my hippie days in the late 1960s, when I was completely ignorant about fragrances, I thought that patchouli was some type of herb and spice blend, sort of like a potpourri. For many people my age who grew up in the sixties, it was the smell of headshops, where it apparently was used sometimes to mask the smell of marijuana. It was supposed to have been brought to Western markets by backpackers on the 'Hippie Trail' through India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Iran. Its distinctive earthy scent appealed to the back-to-the-earthers of the time. In the movie High Fidelity, John Cusack yells, "Get your patchouli stink out of my store!" at the bohemian Tim Robbins. Patchouli really was ubiquitous then, and because of its strong, overwhelming scent seemingly everywhere, I eventually grew to dislike it. (In addition, a lot of the patchouli used in the 1960s was low quality.) However, more recently I have begun to really appreciate its presence in shaving and cosmetic products.

Patchouli (from the Tamil pachai, pachilai, or pacculi, meaning 'green leaf;' or Hindi pacholi, 'to scent') is a species of the aromatic family Lamiaceae, commonly called the mint or deadnettle family. It grows as a perennial bushy shrub, with strong upright stems reaching a height of around 3 feet and bearing soft, hairy leaves and small, pale, pink-purple to white flowers. It grows well in warm to tropical climates, thriving in hot weather but not direct sunlight. The flowers produce seeds, but the plants are commonly propagated from cuttings. The seed-producing flowers are quite fragrant and blossom in late fall.

It grows wild in Sumatra and Java at higher elevations (3,000-6,000 feet). Pogostemon cablin and other pogostemons are all cultivated for their essential oil. Patchouli is generally considered a Bengali Indian herb, but it also is native to Malaysia and possibly the Phillippines. Today about 90% of patchouli oil comes from Indonesia, with significant amounts also coming from China, India, Malaysia, Singapore, Vietnam, and West Africa. Smaller crops are grown in the Philippines, Taiwan, Japan, Thailand, Cambodia, Myanmar, Madagascar, and Pakistan, and in areas of South America and the Caribbean.

As with many plants, traditional uses of patchouli date back thousands of years. Egypt's King Tutankhamun is reputed to have had 10 gallons of patchouli oil buried with him in his tomb, and the Romans used it as an appetite stimulant. It is recorded as being grown in China by the 5th century BCE, although this may have been different but similar plant. It was introduced to commercial Indian growth in 1834, and it eventually arrived in the Middle East along the silk trading routes, and then subsequently in Europe and England. During the Victorian era the leaves were folded into cashmere shawls and packed along with spices, silks, carpets, and other treasures shipped from British-colonized India and Malaysia, in order for its insect-repellant properties to protect the items from moths and other pests. The scent of patchouli permeated the fabrics during transport, adding a layer of exotic allure. Eventually the scent became a sign of 'Oriental' authenticity, and customers sometimes refused to buy unscented shawls; unscrupulous producers of unauthentic shawls layered them with patchouli leaves, allowing them to be passed off as genuine. Empress Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III, was among the first in 19th century Europe to favor shawls for their protection against chills without the beauty of her gowns. Soon patchouli-scented shawls became fashionable in France, paralleling the rise of patchouli as a Western fragrance ingredient. Its use in perfumery has increased since that time, although recently it has fallen out of favor somewhat.

The leaves of the patchouli plant produce the essential oil in hair-like glanduar trichomes. The leaves are harvested by hand two or three times per year, with the best oil derived from leaves harvested in the wet season. A few sources have claimed that the highest quality patchouli oil is produced from fresh, undried leaves distilled immediately and close to where they are harvested, like the leaves of other aromatic plants such as mint or eucalyptus. But traditionally, patchouli leaves have been fermented/dried first. They are bundled or baled and allowed to dry partially and ferment for a few days in the shade to soften the cell walls before being dried further. The topmost mature leaves are then placed on bamboo mats in direct sunlight, with the leaves not touching one another. They are frequently checked, turned over, and moved slightly to prevent molding or drying too quickly and becoming crumbly. Once they are determined by observation to be ready, they are placed in a still for steam distillation, with a volume yield of about 3.5%. When first extracted, the essential oil is slightly viscous and has an orange hue. The oil often is aged, with the color and viscosity deepening and the olfactory profile changing so that the earthier, darker notes emerge. Patchouli oil also is now becoming available as a CO2 extract in limited quantities.

The two main natural chemical components of patcholi oil are patchoulol (25-35%), a sesquiterpene alcohol, and norpatchoulenol, a tricyclic terpenoid. Despite the ease and low cost of its production, agricultural methods result in unreliable, inconsistent, or unsustainable quality and supply, and there are synthetic patchoulis now being developed and produced. The synthetic biology pioneer Amyris and Firmenich, the largest flavor and fragrance company, have developed a novel bioprocess for making large volumes of quality patchouli oil from yeast. The synthetically altered microorganisms produce patchoulol, patchouli's key component, at a facility in Brotas, Brazil. The agricultural approach takes 6 months from planting to harvest, not including drying and extraction, while the manufacturing process results in high-quality oil in about 2 weeks. Supply chain problems are mitigated, but small farmers in the agricultural countries inevitably will be affected.

Patchouli is sweet and spicy, with an intense, musty, woody aroma that is reminiscent of wet soil. It contains the same dark, rich, earthy tone element that is present in vetiver. Its structure consists of sweet herbaceous top notes, a rich winey heart, and a balsamic woody base. Because of its association with dirt and drug use, and the contemporary preference for 'fresh,' simpler compounds, modern patchouli often is altered molecularly to remove the less desirable musty components. The oil still is very popular in perfume blends, especially the contemporary woody floral musks. It is especially complementary to vanilla and other sweet scents, and it mixes well with other essential oils, including vetiver, sandalwood, frankincense, bergamot, cedarwood, jasmine, rose, and citrus oils. Patchouli often is used as a base note in chypre, oriental, and powdery fragrances, pairing with the sweetness of bergamot, lavender, and rose and the smoothness of sandalwood. It is present in nearly all blends bearing a reference of any kind to India. It is sometimes thought to be too overwhelmingly earthy and heavy for haute perfumerie, but it actually is a basic building block of many of the genres. It also is valuable as a fixative, slowing the evaporation of other more volatile oils and thus extending the fragrance life of other perfume ingredients.

In addition to its use in perfumery, patchouli is widely added as an ingredient in modern scented industrial products, including paper towels, laundry detergents, and air fresheners. More traditionally, patchouli has been used in East Indian incense, in insect repellants, and as a medicinal ingredient to treat skin disease (inflammation, eczema, acne, chapping, dandruff, and scars), headaches, colic, muscle spasms, infections, insect and snake bites, and anxiety and depression. The leaves have been used to make herbal tea, and in some cultures they are eaten as a vegetable or used as a seasoning. The Chinese, Japanese, and Arabs have believed it to possess aphrodisiac properties.

In aromatherapy, patchouli is considered a grounding and balancing element, soothing and relaxing yet stimulating, and particularly relevant for conditions of weak immunity or other weakened states. It is said to bring the three principal forces within the body - Creative at the navel, the Heart center, and transcendental Wisdom at the crown - into harmony. The aroma of the oil is thought to relieve the strain of those with excessive mental activity, who feel 'out of touch' with their body, and is reputed to be helpful for impotence, frigidity, and lack of sensuality.

And in probably its least traditional use, Mattel employed patchouli oil in 1985 in the plastic used to produce the action figure Stinkor in the Masters of the Universe line of toys.

Well know fragrances dominated by patchouli:
Byblos Patchouly
Caswell-Massey Aura of Patchouli
Etro Patchouly
Gobin Daudé Jardins Ottomans
Jalaine Patchouli
L'Artisan Voleur de Roses
Lorenzo Villoresi Novella Patchouli
Lush Karma
Mazzolari Patchouly
Molinard Patchouli
Montale Patchouli Leaves
Santa Maria Novella Patchouli
Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Fragrances with a patchouli component:
Arquiste Misfit
Azzaro pour Homme
Balenciaga Homme
Bath House Patchouli & Black Pepper
Bond No. 9 Bleecker Street
Byredo Velvet Haze
Christian Dior Patchouli Impérial
Crabtree & Evelyn Patchouli
D.S. & Durga Amber Kiso
Diptyque Tempo
Fragonard Zizanie
Frederic M Une Vie en Or pour Homme
Givenchy Gentleman
Givenchy Patchouli de Minuit
Guerlain L'Instant pour Homme
Henry Rose Dark is Night
Hugo Boss Cashmere & Patchouli
Lalique Eau de Lalique
Miller Harris Terre de Bois
Paul Sebastian Kinetic Male
Rochas Lui
Roger & Gallet L'Homme Patchouli
Saint Charles Shave Patchouli
Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque
Serge Lutens Un Bois Sepia
Thierry Mugler A*Men
Tom Ford Patchouli Absolu
Yves St. Laurent Rive Gauche pour Homme
Yves St. Laurent Kouros

Thank you John , I learned loads reading that.

 

[churchilllafemme]

Thank you John , I learned loads reading that.

You're quite welcome. With time on my hands during lockdown here, I'll probably keep adding them.

 

[NeilJ]

Wow thanks John for taking the trouble of posting this. I'd really like to become more informed regarding scent profiles and this really is well put together and a great reference point.

Cheers,
Neil

 

[Nisse]

Patchouli Eau de Cologna Santa Maria Novella is supposed to be very good. (I use Patchouli essential oil mixing my DIY beard oil)