Dull blades in aggressive razors VS Sharp blades in mild razors

Messages
340
Location
Macedonia
I haven't research this topic yet, I'd really like to hear experiences and suggestions. I notice this constant tendency for pushing aggressive razors paired with sharpest blades. But (example) will a Derby Extra do an excellent shave in something like Muhle R41 compared to a poor inefficient shave in a Jagger DE89? Or will it just be poor across the spectrum?
 
Messages
370
I haven't research this topic yet, I'd really like to hear experiences and suggestions. I notice this constant tendency for pushing aggressive razors paired with sharpest blades. But (example) will a Derby Extra do an excellent shave in something like Muhle R41 compared to a poor inefficient shave in a Jagger DE89? Or will it just be poor across the spectrum?
Sharp blades are ALWAYS better, even in aggressive razors. In my R41 I use Astra SP, Nacet and SharpEdge Yellows. All sharp. Tugging is never a good idea, and not enjoyable. How you use sharp blades in aggressive razors is all down to technique. Stay with a particular combination until you get it right - vary the angle, pressure and direction of cut until you get results you like. Plus the consistency of the lather - see how much adding water helps the cut and the glide across the face.
 
Messages
3,377
Location
Cumbria, England
I haven't research this topic yet, I'd really like to hear experiences and suggestions. I notice this constant tendency for pushing aggressive razors paired with sharpest blades. But (example) will a Derby Extra do an excellent shave in something like Muhle R41 compared to a poor inefficient shave in a Jagger DE89? Or will it just be poor across the spectrum?
A poor blade is a poor blade no matter what it's in, and a dull blade in an aggressive razor is just going to be worse.

Some like to push aggressive razors and regard them as a badge of honour, the fact is that a Jagger 89 with a good blade will work for 99% of us.
 
OP
naughtilus
Messages
340
Location
Macedonia
If sharpening bevel angles dictate how sharp and efficient a particular blade is, same goes for cutting angles on razors. Combining wide bevel edge Derby Extra blade with Muhle R41 would result in more aggressive cutting angle attacking the whiskers, but the edge is less sharp, thus less exfoliating on the skin. In theory it should result in less razor burn with a closer shave. But if you use very sharp edge in a mild razor, the blade will do more skin scraping for the same closeness.

So the game is how to get a closer shave without over-exfoliating (manifests as razor burn).

Ideally one would have perfect technique, perfect angle kept, zero pressure, and most efficient razor and sharpest blade will do closest shaves with least passes and no razor burns. Worst case scenario one uses mild razor with wide bevel edged blade, trying to get a close shave applying pressure and buffing 20 times over the same area, resulting in terrible razor burns.

Considering my technique is neither perfect or even very good, I'm wondering if some combination of razor and blade efficiency would hit my sweet spot. I get best shaves from Fatip Grande Testina Gentile + Astra SP, but they are not very close shaves. Same blade in the Grande OC gets closer but I have areas that suffer from it if I shave daily.
 
Messages
768
The razor handle does not affect the way the blade cuts hair. At least not to the extent that we can notice.

If the Derby struggles with certain passes because your facial hair is too coarse, or it leaves your skin irritated, it would do that in every razor.

I just don't have time to try and work out which blades might be marginally better in which razors. I've found a number of blades which work well in all my razors, so they're the ones I buy and use
 
Top Bottom