Could some expert in fountain pen explain this?

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Today I received my back up Wing Sung 3008; it's not as smooth as the previous one, but it's kind of breaking in.

However, I can clearly see through the tank/body of this new pen (as intended for a demonstrator) the empty space and the ink left, whereas it's been nearly impossible with the very first one (which has always looked almost full whichever the ink; Diamine Eclipse here) whose the body is hardly translucent at best. As a consequence, there must be something wrong with the old fountain pen.

New pen above the old one. Both pen tanks are less than quarter full.

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The properties of the inks could be different, but I doubt that Onyx Black and Eclipse would behave differently. I thought about ink density, but that's unlikely. Moreover, in this case, Diamine Eclipse would have behaved like Parker Quink (previous ink in the tank).

Does a slight difference of pressure (I doubt it, but with piston filler, it's not impossible) or something in the old pen is broken?
 
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Does the pen work as it should? I have seen that happen with my own demonstrators with some inks particularly with kiwa guro and Noodler's black which seem to be slightly more viscous. Diamine inks can behave differently between colours, although I've not tried Onyx black. The other possible cause is that grease used to lubricate the piston can repel the ink and cause that effect.

If it's down to one of the two above it's not a cause for concern and if it's grease residue it will wear off after you've refilled it a few times.

Edit - just noticed that it's the older pen you're concerned with, it's fine. That happens sometimes and if it bothers you a good clean should sort it.
 
Both pens work fine. I had some drops of ink at the tip of the nib of the newly filled pen, but other than that it's OK.

As for the old pen and its tank, even filled with Parker Quink it was barely translucent whatever the volume of ink within, so your explanation with the silicon grease seems to be the most rational. Thanks.
 
Actually the new pen is leaking.

After stocking it upside down, I discovered it this morning with some ink in the cap; the ink somehow went down to the cap through the nib and the feed from the tank. It's a cheap Chinese fountain pen, so a hit or miss, no fuss.

As a consequence, I completely dismantle it and clean it thoroughly. I 'll try to refill it when dry and if broken, I'll keep it as replacement parts.

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One of the American fountain pen men of repute, Richard Binder I think said of the fountain pen generally that it is nothing more than a controlled leak.

The basis of the control is that the ink is drawn by capillary action onto the paper from the reservoir, via the nib and feed and as that ink is used, air is admitted into the reservoir in an equally controlled manner to maintain ink flow without causing the ink in the nib to either starve or flood. The reservoir maintains a pressure just very slightly less than atmospheric, so resisting leaks when the pen is not used.

I have restored several old pens, a lot of them 50s and 60s piston fillers. Many of these show exactly the symptoms yours show because air leaks past the piston seals either in storage or in use and, with air getting into the reservoir through another means, the pen doesn't fill well and the feed floods and ultimately the nib drips ink too.

I expect you may have a tiny air leak in the piston assembly, this explains both the partial fill and unexpected emptying of the pen! You'll probably fix it with a little lubrication.

The best stuff is silicone grease as you mention, supplied with TWSBI pens or available in little tubs for lubricating rubber diving gear. Silicone won't mix with ink or rot the seals so much better than vaseline or lithium grease. I tend to apply a tiny amount, half a grain of rice size with a tooth pick on pens like yours smeared round the inside of the barrel just below the piston seal and then work the piston up and down.

It could be the seals have a flaw which lubrication won't fix but I have found a dry seal can be bought back to life with lubrication, saving disassembly and replacing parts.

The pen looks like a replica of the TWSBI Diamond 540/ 580. A great pen in it's own right.
 
Indeed, it's a TWSBI 540 replica with a Lamy F nib copy. I already own the very same pen which works flawlessly. However, I did get the same kind of answer about lubricating which might help and will give a try when I will get my hands on the silicon oil that I use for lubricating my magic cubes. The eBay vendor is going to send me a replacement pen, so no big deal.

Anyway, at the moment I am on a another project: few hours ago I ordered from AliExpress a bent nib that I plan to mount on a Jinhao 886 (ordered in November...) which is still on its way to Britain.
 
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A bent nib upward or down? Fude or posting? All these questions... I'm intrigued.

I have a Duke 551 which is great fun. No idea why I bought it as I can't draw and apart from hilarious signatures I can't see what else it's for but I went through a convertor full in an hour just doodling.
 
This nib:

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Jinhao-750-Laqu-Noir-Avec-Argent-Garniture-Calligraphie-Plume-Fontaine-Stylo.jpg_640x640.jpg
 
Yes, That'll be fun! My Duke has a similar nib, maybe a little broader again as it is a three tine nib but less refined than the Jinhao. The effect is the same; the 'fude' brush pen effect is pronounced when you use the pen in the way you would a brush, altering the angle through a stroke.
I can't write kanji/ hanzi but as I mentioned, the effect is great; adds a whole new dimension to pen use.

Let us know how you get on with it. Oh and thanks - I looked at Jinhao 886 after your mention and... of course I bought one.
:rolleyes:
 
Ahahah.

I believe the 886 is one of the rare Jinhao's original designs; it reminds me a lot industrial design of the 70s.

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However, initially my plan was to mount a Zebra G nib, but someone told me there was a big chance to rust if not taken care properly...
 
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