Sealing a wooden handle

Messages
138
Location
North Staffs UK
My Silvertip Knots have arrived from the Turners Workshop a 26mm and 22mm. I'm going to attempt to make a handle out of some antler for one.
For the other I've obtained a few pieces of hardwood, iruko, sapele, oak and beech and the use of a lathe. If I can make one which wood is most suitable if any and what to seal them with.
Gaz
 
There are many personal tastes on products used for finishing / sealing wood:

Danish oil
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil

Polyurethane
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyurethane

CA (Krazy or Super Glue)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

Clear Epoxy (True Clear not yellow or light colored epoxy)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoxy
 
Must admit to have never thought of using super glue to coat something with, apart from my finger that is.I might try some test pieces to see what pans out, i even thought of using a beeswax coating as I've got a block going spare.
Gaz
 
If you are going for sealing the wood then a polyurethane spray will be easier than CA glue. Alternatively, soaking the wood as advised gives a completely different finish i.e. not as shiny. It's all a question of personal preference but high shine does not look right on some woods IMO - I'd rather see a deep sheen. Apart from Danish Oil, there are oils with a hardener that work well. One of the very good brush makers on here (Bill, Le Tuft) put me on to this for some straight razor scales I was working on. If you put a few coats on - leaving 5 or 6 hours between each, you not only get good soak-in, but you can then buff up on the lathe to a very nice finish.

Liberon Finishing Oil is the brand I use - and I've just remembered that I'm almost out.
 
UKRob said:
If you are going for sealing the wood then a polyurethane spray will be easier than CA glue. Alternatively, soaking the wood as advised gives a completely different finish i.e. not as shiny. It's all a question of personal preference but high shine does not look right on some woods IMO - I'd rather see a deep sheen. Apart from Danish Oil, there are oils with a hardener that work well. One of the very good brush makers on here (Bill, Le Tuft) put me on to this for some straight razor scales I was working on. If you put a few coats on - leaving 5 or 6 hours between each, you not only get good soak-in, but you can then buff up on the lathe to a very nice finish.

Liberon Finishing Oil is the brand I use - and I've just remembered that I'm almost out.
Thanks for that, the sheen finish is what I'm looking for, first job sharpen the chisels
Gaz
 
I use CA or super glue on the wood handles I make , I will apply 10 or so thin coats while the handle is still on the lathe allowing drying time inbetween coats
 
On the small travel brush/ mustache brush i have found that regular clear fingernail polish works great.. If you want. You can use different colors. Or even swirl in different colors....
 
Back
Top Bottom