Getting started...

[whitefort]

I've just picked up an Ebay cheapie.

The maker is McLellan, Belfast, and it has 'The Hamburg Ring' inscribed on the blade. The condition generally seems pretty good - it flops about in the scales a bit, and there are some nasty-looking rust spots along the top of the spine, but nowhere else.

The blade actually seems in pretty good condition, perhaps actually shave-ready (I've not tried, but the slightest touch takes off the hairs on the back of my hand).

I'm totally new to this, but I guess the place to start is by getting off the rust? I'm guessing I need sandpaper, but as a total newbie, I'd be grateful if someone would give me some idea exactly what sort/grades I'll need. I've always been a book/computer guy, rather than a hands-on craft-y guy.

Any advice gratefully received. I really think that if I can just get the rust off this it will be ready to use.

 

[UKRob]

While I'm not trying to promote another forum over TSR - if you take a look at the Straight Razor Place forum you will get lots of advice on how to go about restoration and what equipment is best. The reason I advise this is because it will also give you some safety tips. You don't have to join SRP to take a look at their 'How to' section.

 

[Manchestertattoo]

Hi whitefort, well the rule of thumb I normally go by is start high up the grades and go coarser if needs be. What colour is the rust, red or black? Red is active rust and black is inactive, but both need to be removed really if you want to finish with a nice looking razor. If I was you I wouldn't go down the unpinning route yet (taking the pivot pin out and therefore releasing the blade from the scales) as this can prove a little tricky and is always risky regards damaging the scales. If the tang around the top pin is rust free then I would leave the razor complete. You need to remember when using sandpaper and elbow grease on a razor you should never try to jump grades of paper, I.e go from 400 grit to 800 or 1000 because you will struggle getting the scratches out of the metal the sandpaper causes. I always use the best sandpaper I can afford, it really does make a big difference. If the rust isn't very bad and there are no deep pits in the blade I would start at say 400 and go: 600,800,1000,1200,1500,2000,2500. And try to get wet and dry paper, it is a lot easier to work with. It sounds like a lot of paper but it is well worth it and will make the job easier when it comes to getting a nice finish on the blade. After 2500 I usually use mothers mag or autosol metal polish to buff to a mirror finish. You can use autosol or mothers on the scales too to buff them up. You can get all the grades from halfords, although they are a little more expensive than body shop suppliers as can be expected with halfords. Hope this helps.

 

[whitefort]

Thanks guys.

I have an Awful Confession. I chickened out!

My idea was to buy some dirt-cheapo razors on Ebay and practice on them. But I've done that three or four times now, and once I've got the thing in my hands I see some feature that makes me not want to risk doing anything to destroy it!!

In this particular case, the fact that it was a Belfast razor (and I grew up in Belfast) made me want to turn it into something special rather than risk ruining it. So, it's gone off for a spot of professional restoration and to be rescaled in Irish Bog Oak.

Now I need to look for ANOTHER cheapo to practice on!!!

Thanks again for the advice.