Pocket knife stone

[shaunwistow]

How do, got a lovely pocket knife today, but it's not sharp at all. It won't cut through paper or remove arm hair. Is there a good value Stone to improve this. I'm not looking at a series of stones. I have a Stone which came with my chisel set so I wonder if this'll help.

 

[culcreuch]

For my pocket knives I use this

https://www.heinnie.com/lansky-turn-box-4-rod

Very easy to use and very effective.

 

[Driftwood]

Falkniven DC4 are really good

 

[FrankieG]

For my pocket knives I use this

https://www.heinnie.com/lansky-turn-box-4-rod

Very easy to use and very effective.

That's what I use too. Foolproof and does a great job.

 

[bagman]

Falkniven DC4 are really good

Very good for free hand sharpening pocket knives. The two grades in one product can give excellent results.

 

[shaunwistow]

Found this in the garage, see what happens

 

[Blademonkey]

Found this in the garage, see what happens

View attachment 32908

I would only use the fine side of that stone, the corse side would be ok if you were trying to lose chips ect... P.

 

[shaunwistow]

I would only use the fine side of that stone, the corse side would be ok if you were trying to lose chips ect... P.

I've given up on that Stone as it's far too rough. Just browsing eBay now. I've just found my 1st pocket knife which is at least 40yrs old. It's cleaned up great, alas that needs sharpening too.

 

[shaunwistow]

I'll give this a go, £5.95 all in.

 

[Driftwood]

Try some wet and dry paper 800-1200, on a flat surface or mouse mat (if it's a convex edge) and strop the blade. You should be able to get a decent edge with that and just keep stropping to maintain the edge

 

[chris.hale]

For my pocket knives I use this

https://www.heinnie.com/lansky-turn-box-4-rod

Very easy to use and very effective.

I have the Spyderco Sharpmaker which works on the same principle, it gives excellent results but is a lot more expensive. The Lansky looks like a bargain.

 

[ob21]

lansky all the way...or strop with 1200 grit wet dry

 

[Count of Undolpho]

That's what I use too. Foolproof and does a great job.

The only trouble with the turn box is the set angles, 20° and 25°; sharpen at 20° then use the 25° for a microedge. Which is fine for most blades but for something like a Spyderco you need 15° and no microedge and other posh steel blades use other angles.
That's why I use the DC4 you can sharpen any angle (with practice) I even use it on my axes 'in the field'.

 

[Bogeyman]

The only trouble with the turn box is the set angles, 20° and 25°; sharpen at 20° then use the 25° for a microedge. Which is fine for most blades but for something like a Spyderco you need 15° and no microedge and other posh steel blades use other angles.
That's why I use the DC4 you can sharpen any angle (with practice) I even use it on my axes 'in the field'.

The degree for an edge is a tricky subject that needs to take into account the steel as well as the intended usage. I like 25° on an EDC knife as 30° is for chopping and 20° too delicate IMO. YMMV depending on the steel & intended usage as stated however.

On another note, the newest "super steels" hold an edge for an eternity, BUT they are a bastard to sharpen easily. I like a knife that I can whet quickly to a fine edge moreso than using diamond for the hard ones. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Count of Undolpho]

The degree for an edge is a tricky subject that needs to take into account the steel as well as the intended usage. I like 25° on an EDC knife as 30° is for chopping and 20° too delicate IMO. YMMV depending on the steel & intended usage as stated however.

On another note, the newest "super steels" hold an edge for an eternity, BUT they are a bastard to sharpen easily. I like a knife that I can whet quickly to a fine edge moreso than using diamond for the hard ones. Just my 2 cents.

I must admit to mainly doing it by hand and eye rather than to a specific degree. When I have checked, with pocket knives I tend to go at around 20° for a good steel, posh stainless or carbon, ~25° for softer or larger knives. The 15° for Spyderco was from a post by Sal Glessor stating that was the angle they were designed to take, I adjusted my angle and was impressed with the results and have started doing a number of my blades at 15°, 'work' knives I still do at 20°.

Steel wise I like N690Co which has a great edge retention but is still easy enough to keep sharp; 440C, AUS8 are also good. I have an Elmax Spyderco (the BB forum knife) and that is truly a great pocket knife steel comes up to razor and stays that way for ages. All of them I sharpen using a DC4 and/or Starkie Blue on a strop. I still have a fondness for carbon steel as well; for the patina, edge and ease of upkeep, I'm just a bit sloppy at avoiding rust

 

[Bogeyman]

...I have an Elmax Spyderco (the BB forum knife) and that is truly a great pocket knife steel comes up to razor and stays that way for ages...

I had a Kershaw knife made of Elmax and that stuff is harder than a whore's heart!! I sold it to a buddy. I had a Lansky Sharpener kit that was great, but I sold it as well. I swear by any sharpening tool that whets a pre-determined angle as no human hand can hold perfectly. Now I only own a small Byrd knife that is Spyderco's economical line made in China of 8Cr13MoV steel. It's easy to whet and as I don't forecast doing HALO jumps into a Third World junglescape and having to hack my way out with a knife à la Bear Grylls it'll do.