- Messages
- 16,002
- Location
- Halifax, Republic of Yorkshire
Some thoughts based in ingredients lists ... and more importantly, experience. Current production.
Trumpers - rumoured to be made by Soapworks (Glasgow)* and despite a recent reformulation still does not produce a sound or stable lather
(c.2015?) Eucris by way of example:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua (Water), Potassium Cocoate, Glycerin, Parfum (Fragrance), Tetrasodium ETDA, Sodium Chloride, Isopropyl Myristrate, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Evernia Furfuracea, BHT, Coumerin, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
Recent reformulation Eucris (as an example):
Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Sodium Cocoate, Parfum (Fragrance), Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Isopropyl Myristate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Coconut Fatty Acid, Evernia Furfuracea, BHT, Coumarin, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
... interestingly, Haryali London ingredient list is very much like the older Trumpers formulation:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua (Water), Potassium Cocoate, Glycerin, Parfum (Fragrance), Titanium Dioxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Benzyl Benzoate, Linalool, Limonene, Hexy Cinnamal
T&H - formerly Soapworks (Glasgow)* recently reformulated and now produced by a different manufacturer:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua (Water), Potassium Stearate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Palm Kernel Acid, Parfum (Fragrance), Titanium Dioxide, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Gluconate, Linalool, Coumarin
Trumpers Officer & Gentleman / Oxford Blue - same as T&H current formulation:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua (Water), Potassium Stearate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Palm Kernel Acid, Parfum (Fragrance), Titanium Dioxide, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Gluconate, Linalool, Coumarin
TOBS (Traditional) - related to T&H:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua (Water), Sodium Cocoate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Glycerin, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Parfum (Fragrance), Palm Kernel Fatty Acid, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Linalool, Coumarin, Geraniol, Limonene, Cinnamal, Citronellol, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
MWF - reformulated 2023 and now very closely related to T&H ... basically, T&H with Lanolin:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua, Potassium Stearate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Palm Kernel Acid, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Lanolin, Titanium Dioxide, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentesodium Pentetate, Sodium Gluconate, Tetrasodium EDTA & Limonene
Vulfix - very oddly, this is strongly related to T&H but does not produce a sound or stable lather:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua, Potassium Stearate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Palm Kernel Acid, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Sodium Gluconate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium EDTA
Floris - kinda out on their own with a formulation unlike the others ... with Shea Butter:
Potassium Palmate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Palmate, Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Stearate, Palm Kernel Acid, Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Linalool, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Geraniol, Coumarin, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
... and onto the remaining tallow soaps.
DR Harris - Arlington, Marlborough, Almond & Lavender:
Sodium Tallowate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Parfum (Fragrance), Coconut Acid, Linalool, Petrolatum, Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Potassium Cocoate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Edta, Benzyl Alcohol, O-Tolyl Biguanide, Coumarin, Ci 77891
DR Harris - Windsor & Sandalwood with a minor variation in the list:
Potassium Palmate, Sodium Tallowate, Aqua, Glycerin, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Palm Kernel Acid, Perfum (Fragrance), Petrolatum, Sodium Chloride, Linalool, Coumarin, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium EDTA, O-Tolyl biguanide, Limonene, CI 77891
Cyril R Salter - practically the same as DR Harris Tallow-first formulation:
Sodium Tallowate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Parfum (Fragrance), Coconut Acid, Petrolatum, Linalool, Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Potassium Cocoate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Edta, O-Tolyl Biguanide, Coumarin, Geraniol, D-Limolene, Citronellol, Ci 77891
Captain Fawcett - related to the DR Harris formulation:
Sodium Tallowate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua, Potassium Laurate, Sodium Laurate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Glycerin, Parfum, Palm Kernal Acid, Potassium, Palm Kernelate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate, O-Tolyl Biguanide, Linalool, Eugenol, Limonene, Coumarin, Petrolatum, Tetrasodium EDTA, CI 77891
Bottom line?
Trumpers - don't expect their soaps to produce a usable lather other than Officer & Gentleman and Oxford Blue
DR Harris - always were absolutely sound soaps (except Naturals) ... Cyril R Salter & Captain Fawcett provide interesting additions with very similar formulations
T&H - absolutely sound soaps now ... TOBS (Traditional) has a similar formulation
MWF - very much related to T&H formulation with the additional of lanolin
*Note that I refer to Soapworks (Glasgow) as distinct from the Soapworks development in Salford, which is built upon the former Colgate/Palmolive plant.
Anyone know anything else to add, refine or nip up the details of this? @SeanC perhaps?
We could maybe use this thread for known-good historic formulations of, say, Trumpers, Crabtree & Evelyn, Penhaligons and so on ...
Trumpers - rumoured to be made by Soapworks (Glasgow)* and despite a recent reformulation still does not produce a sound or stable lather
(c.2015?) Eucris by way of example:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua (Water), Potassium Cocoate, Glycerin, Parfum (Fragrance), Tetrasodium ETDA, Sodium Chloride, Isopropyl Myristrate, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Evernia Furfuracea, BHT, Coumerin, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
Recent reformulation Eucris (as an example):
Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Sodium Cocoate, Parfum (Fragrance), Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Isopropyl Myristate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Coconut Fatty Acid, Evernia Furfuracea, BHT, Coumarin, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
... interestingly, Haryali London ingredient list is very much like the older Trumpers formulation:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua (Water), Potassium Cocoate, Glycerin, Parfum (Fragrance), Titanium Dioxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Benzyl Benzoate, Linalool, Limonene, Hexy Cinnamal
T&H - formerly Soapworks (Glasgow)* recently reformulated and now produced by a different manufacturer:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua (Water), Potassium Stearate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Palm Kernel Acid, Parfum (Fragrance), Titanium Dioxide, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Gluconate, Linalool, Coumarin
Trumpers Officer & Gentleman / Oxford Blue - same as T&H current formulation:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua (Water), Potassium Stearate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Palm Kernel Acid, Parfum (Fragrance), Titanium Dioxide, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Gluconate, Linalool, Coumarin
TOBS (Traditional) - related to T&H:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua (Water), Sodium Cocoate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Glycerin, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Parfum (Fragrance), Palm Kernel Fatty Acid, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Linalool, Coumarin, Geraniol, Limonene, Cinnamal, Citronellol, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
MWF - reformulated 2023 and now very closely related to T&H ... basically, T&H with Lanolin:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua, Potassium Stearate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Palm Kernel Acid, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Lanolin, Titanium Dioxide, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentesodium Pentetate, Sodium Gluconate, Tetrasodium EDTA & Limonene
Vulfix - very oddly, this is strongly related to T&H but does not produce a sound or stable lather:
Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Aqua, Potassium Stearate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Palm Kernel Acid, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Sodium Gluconate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium EDTA
Floris - kinda out on their own with a formulation unlike the others ... with Shea Butter:
Potassium Palmate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Palmate, Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Stearate, Palm Kernel Acid, Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Linalool, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Geraniol, Coumarin, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
... and onto the remaining tallow soaps.
DR Harris - Arlington, Marlborough, Almond & Lavender:
Sodium Tallowate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Parfum (Fragrance), Coconut Acid, Linalool, Petrolatum, Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Potassium Cocoate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Edta, Benzyl Alcohol, O-Tolyl Biguanide, Coumarin, Ci 77891
DR Harris - Windsor & Sandalwood with a minor variation in the list:
Potassium Palmate, Sodium Tallowate, Aqua, Glycerin, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Palm Kernel Acid, Perfum (Fragrance), Petrolatum, Sodium Chloride, Linalool, Coumarin, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium EDTA, O-Tolyl biguanide, Limonene, CI 77891
Cyril R Salter - practically the same as DR Harris Tallow-first formulation:
Sodium Tallowate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Cocoate, Parfum (Fragrance), Coconut Acid, Petrolatum, Linalool, Sodium Palmate, Potassium Palmate, Potassium Cocoate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Edta, O-Tolyl Biguanide, Coumarin, Geraniol, D-Limolene, Citronellol, Ci 77891
Captain Fawcett - related to the DR Harris formulation:
Sodium Tallowate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua, Potassium Laurate, Sodium Laurate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Glycerin, Parfum, Palm Kernal Acid, Potassium, Palm Kernelate, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate, O-Tolyl Biguanide, Linalool, Eugenol, Limonene, Coumarin, Petrolatum, Tetrasodium EDTA, CI 77891
Bottom line?
Trumpers - don't expect their soaps to produce a usable lather other than Officer & Gentleman and Oxford Blue
DR Harris - always were absolutely sound soaps (except Naturals) ... Cyril R Salter & Captain Fawcett provide interesting additions with very similar formulations
T&H - absolutely sound soaps now ... TOBS (Traditional) has a similar formulation
MWF - very much related to T&H formulation with the additional of lanolin
*Note that I refer to Soapworks (Glasgow) as distinct from the Soapworks development in Salford, which is built upon the former Colgate/Palmolive plant.
Anyone know anything else to add, refine or nip up the details of this? @SeanC perhaps?
We could maybe use this thread for known-good historic formulations of, say, Trumpers, Crabtree & Evelyn, Penhaligons and so on ...